Grrr, can't get header on!

BIGREDRASA

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Bought a single outlet chrome header form Mustangs Unlimited. Can't get the center bolts in. Lower edge of the center flange interferes with the top of the block. :bang:
 
It's tight. Had to remove starter. I didn't do anything to head, but PO probably had it milled. It has a helicoil in the last bolt hole by #6. Someone suggested bolting up the center holes first. I suspecct I'll have to snake it back out and grind down the center flange. :evil:

Not sure if I can get carb linkage back on, so maybe I need to proceed to the Holley/Weber & DS II swap. Except I don't have the carb ready to bolt on, and I haven't received the dizzy yet. :cry:
 
Make sure you can get the starter back on with the header on...
You might have to get like a mini starter.. I've heard one from an FE motor well work..
tim
 
Clearance the header. It's no big deal, but a good example of why I suggest people do a dry fit before getting a coated unit.

You can probably eyeball the amount required, pretty well just using the gasket.
 
Got every bolt in, except the very back one. The one with a helicoil. Header pipe is hitting the shock tower. Throttle linkage has to be modified somehow. Might as well work on the new carb, using the point-type dizzy I bought. :?
 
You need a genuine 3/8" clearance on that side, or motor movement during driving will cause constant battering.

Promise you won't start hammering a $10K car to fit a $300 part?
 
I just put the same header in last weekend. I had to grind about a .5 inch chunk out of the bell housing because the flange hit right down in the middle where the starter bolts in, and grind about 4 places on the bottom of the flange where the bolt holes where, because it looked like it was left a little to long and was hitting the block. I didn't notice before but the block has little bumps just about inline with every ex. flange hole.

I had it in and out with out the gasket about 15 times before I bolted it in and the flange is still right next to the starter, but it is in and works. I need to push it away from the side of the block but don't have any idea as to how to do it, but I saw a post on here sometime back where someone used a porta-power. I'm still not sure about that but I'm pretty sure I need to get the header pushed over about .5 inch at the bottom. This is in a fox body so my body fitting problems where a little differant than yours, but I hope I helped some.
 
One other thing if you need body clearance, I had to put some shims under the motor mounts. By jacking one side up or both you can get a pretty good bit of room on the sides and bottom with 2 or 3 .125 shims stacked up and placed under the motor mounts.
 
YIKES! Two guys having fit problems with the same brand header? Maybe it's the header that's wrong. Do other brand names and styles fit better? I hope so!

Harry
 
60s Refugee":26ov2pzg said:
YIKES! Two guys having fit problems with the same brand header? Maybe it's the header that's wrong. Do other brand names and styles fit better? I hope so!

Harry

The Classic Inline headers dont have that problem. :D :D :D

Doug
 
I wanted a Classic Inline header but it looked like alot more work to get it in my car, overall I was pleased with the one I got and I can't blame the people that made it because it was made for a 60 to mid 70's car. It was just my dumb luck that I'm working on a foxbody and nobody makes parts to fit that body style :cry: . I wonder how hard its going to be to that new head fit?
 
Mustang_Geezer":24pap16e said:
60s Refugee":24pap16e said:
YIKES! Two guys having fit problems with the same brand header? Maybe it's the header that's wrong. Do other brand names and styles fit better? I hope so!

Harry

The Classic Inline headers dont have that problem. :D :D :D

Doug

They do on Foxes...then again they ain't designed to fit them.

The head SHOULD fit fine, there is more lateral room in the Fox platform than the Comet/Falcon, and that's what has been the issue.
 
OK, the beast roared today! :D :party: :beer:

My son works for a prestressed concrete company, and had brought me some rubber sheeting that gets placed under concrete beams. I cut out two squares, about 1/4" thick, and placed them under the motor mounts as shims. 8) Come to find out, I probably didn't need to do that, just loosen the bottom bolts and rock the engine a little to the left. :D I have about 1/2" clearance between the right shock tower and the header. :D The starter cable is dangerously close to the pipes. :shock: #6 pipe is about 1/2" from the top bulge of the starter. :shock: The carb end of the throttle linkage is resting on top of the header, and the pedal is to the floor. :shock: Tomorrow I'll remove the rubber shims, and see how the engine sits. :?

I have a rebuildable Carter and 1 1/2 Holley Webers. I also have a rebuilt DS II dizzy, and a GM module. As soon as I figure how to get a throttle linkage working, it's off to get a 2 1/4" single exhaust system.
 
I have the long tube headers from classic inline. I had to bring them up through the bottom. then i had to put a bend in them to clear my trans mount. other than that no problem=)
 
I am currently in the process of installing my 6 into 2 ceramic coated header from ClassicInlines and putting the header in was easy. The hard part is repairing the broken front and rear flanges on the head.
I designed and fabbed up little brackets that attach to the head using the head bolts on each end.
It took a little grinding of the flange areas to make a nice snug fit. I then installed the header and used a transfer punch to locate the bolt holes in the brackets, removed them, drilled and tapped each one, bolted back to the head and put in the two header bolts.
Slicker than bug snot!
Starter clears very easily, haven't hooked up the linkage yet but don't see any clearance probs there either.
When I initially put the header in the hole, I undid the motor mount nut on that side and jacked up the motor about 2" and she slipped right in.
Can't wait to get the rest hooked up and test the whole works out.

Havin' fun in the midwest.

CrashBob..........Midas muffler, eat your heart out!!
 
Great news about your dual header fitting! Especially since I plan to use the same header! Gonna hook mine up to a stock 289 dual exhaust. I think that should flow free enough for six cylinder purposes.

Harry
 
Those single out headers are junk. I could see light through the welds. Other than that, I had no problems installing it on '66 200.
 
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