Header port divider necessary?...Opinions please?

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I have ordered a single out header for my I6 200 66 coupe and forgot about the port divider. Engine is stock rebuild .030 ob with a WC T5, 8" 3.40 rear gears. and has not been started yet..just installed a few days ago.

Can I please have your opinions as to if the port divider is necessary? (yes, I can weld, but what about to the cast iron?)

And the best place to find one?

Place where i got the header is $20 plus $10 shipping.

Thank you,
Deb
 
At one time the port divider was thought to be a must but unless they are installed correctly the tend to rattle I tried to epoxy mine in with the cotronics high temp epoxy but it still rattled around I removed it last year and everything has been fine so far and I do not notice any change in performance. JMHO

Dave
 
Pretty much flip a coin. I have ran with and with out no real seat of your pants difference that I can see.
 
While I'm sure it makes a difference, the consensus these days is that it is very small in terms of power gains, may have more to do with efficiency. I've had mixed success with Cotronics. My first one on my US head stayed great for 15k miles before I pulled the head, and was tight as can be. The one I installed in the OZ250 head with cotronics broke lose after like 1000 miles and has been annoying me. I'm actually going to do what some others have done and tap my head just above the divider and bolt it down with a set screw.

I won't remove it now for 2 reasons. Pull the dual out headers will be a royal PITA requiring the removal of the intake manifold and assorted junk. 2nd, since I am running a duel exhaust system, I'm not sure what it would do to the exhaust note since the 3 and 4 cylinder exhausts are divided.

Slade
 
I just bought a Hooker 6 into 2 header. Just last night, I went to Clifford to order the divider, $13. Shipping was $15! I said screw that, I don't need the damn thing.
 
Howdy DCJ and All:

I've followed the debate on dividers. Both sides make reasonable claims, however, there is no objective, comparitive data to substantiate either sides claims. I think the best that can be said is that the port divider is neither as good as Clifford claims in their ads, nor as worthless as nay-sayers claim.

We believe in the merit of port dividers for several reason; evening port flow for better balance, less heat transfer to the carb pad and better flow bench numbers. Please note that a true comparison between the siamized port and the split port was not possible because of the nature of the stock siamized ports. We tried to add a section of header pipe to the outlet. Obviously, we couldn't get a header effect without the divider. Flow bench numbers do not necessarily equal HP. We have not done an objective performance comparison with and without the divider. I suspect that the difference would be very small, and then performance increases would likely be only in very specific circumstances and rpm ranges.

We hand fit the divider to a very snug fit with a slight protrusion, so that the header holds it snugly in place. It couldn't rattle even if the welds broke loose. We then have it welded into place at the same time the intake log is being modified. All surfaces are them milled flat for good sealing. To date we have not experience any problems with either coming loose.

The divider is included with the header purchase from some headers. It can also be purchase seperately from Clifford, AutoKrafter Inc. and others.

It's your call.

Adios, David
 
On my 250 I used a product called Fireseal 2000 high temp epoxy(www.por15.com) After the epoxy dried I ground the divider down almost flush with the head and my machinist milled the exhaust side of the head. I have a clifford dual outlet header and I have had no problems.
 
Just removed the divider I had epoxied into my recently rebuilt 200. Began rattling after about 200 miles of use. Have heard many opinions, but did not notice any loss of performance and exhaust sound with divider removed is actually a deeper, rumbling sound... better in my opinion
 
information is very much appreciated. I elected NOT to purchase the port divider based on YOUr opinions and for the reason is my header is 6 into 1 so leaks should not be a problem.

Thanks again for all the great replies! Problem solved!

Deb
 
Actually, mine has started rattling so bad that I can barely stand to listed to the engine run from outside the car.

This thread is making me think it is time to pull it out and see how it sounds.
 
Lots of discussion for the little lump 'o steel. I Have mentined before that the Hooker installation instructions said to grind it to fit and leave a couple of 'thousandths for an interference fit. Simple but this worked OK for a year but did experience some sealing problems with thermal cycling.

PORTDIVIDER1WEB.jpg


Powerband
 
Mine was an interferance fit as well. Late last Summer it started rattleing and this Spring when I took it out of storage it was rattleing so bad I could hear it over the exhaust while driving around.

Pulled it out Thursday night and put on a new thick fiber gasket I had laying around. The old gasket was going anyway and this time I used some Ultra Copper RTV. I just snugged it Thursday night left it without running it for 24 hours. Yesterday afternoon I tightened it down and took it for a ride. Man what a difference. I forgot how good the car sounds now that the rattle and exhaust leaks are gone.

The exhaust volume is about the same and the tone is just slightly different. It is hard to describe. Not better or worse, just a little different. I did not notice any difference in the seat-o-the-pants meter.
 
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