200 discussion/opinions

First off hello all i`ve been here awhile and have been in the shadows reading and lurking.. I have a few questions about the 200 as im still deciding whether or not to keep it or swap out for V-8.. First and foremost.. what kinda rwhp can u get out of a 200? i was planning on a .030 overbore,v-8 pistons either a 215-230 or a 230-245 degree cam, CI AL head,ignition upgrade(not sure which yet opinions appreciated) Header, brand new out of the crate t-5 with a 8 inch rear with 3:55 ratio aluminum rad with electric fan,power disc brakes all the way around..the car is a 68 mustang coupe with 68,000 on the clock and all the id tags in place including the "ok to ship" tag that was still hanging from the shock tower! the shell is currently in the body shop getting the once over and new paint... i know im probably missing alot of info :banghead: so please feel free to put your $.02 in i dont need 2000 hp or anything but i do want her to get out of her own way too.. thanks for any opinions/idea you guys have..

Tim
 
The best is not to ask What can I get , the best Plan is just that , a Plan with a Goal , be realistic , I see lots of Tire kickers here ( everywhere and when I was you I did some my self ) set your--GOAL-- then ask what it would take to get there and if its practical , 3 things are needed , Time , Money , and Talent ,( especially the money ) you need to have lots of at least 2 of them be honest with yourself and you wont be disappointed , Ive accomplished most of my goals with lots of Time and Talent , and along the way i've learned lessons that Young ( read impatient ) have trouble with , ok enough of a rant , good luck , Set a Goal
 
Tim1970":1lauxven said:
First off hello all i`ve been here awhile and have been in the shadows reading and lurking.. I have a few questions about the 200 as im still deciding whether or not to keep it or swap out for V-8.. First and foremost.. what kinda rwhp can u get out of a 200? i was planning on a .030 overbore,v-8 pistons either a 215-230 or a 230-245 degree cam, CI AL head,ignition upgrade(not sure which yet opinions appreciated) Header, brand new out of the crate t-5 with a 8 inch rear with 3:55 ratio aluminum rad with electric fan,power disc brakes all the way around..the car is a 68 mustang coupe with 68,000 on the clock and all the id tags in place including the "ok to ship" tag that was still hanging from the shock tower! the shell is currently in the body shop getting the once over and new paint... i know im probably missing alot of info :banghead: so please feel free to put your $.02 in i dont need 2000 hp or anything but i do want her to get out of her own way too.. thanks for any opinions/idea you guys have..

Tim

If ease of build and top speed is most important , an inexpensive SBF setup will be close enough to the six. A well set up 'Stang 200 with a T5 and 3.55 rear will be a fun driver for sure. The performance six torque curve is focused on acceleration. With a V8 T5 OD/ 3:55 there's Interstate cruise speed at @ 2000 RPM with modern tire sizes . 3:80 or lower gears with typical V8 T5 is better for performance focus. Alum. radiator and discs add to the whole performance package. (You could later always swap in a common V8 8) )

HavE fUn




'61 T'Bolt Six:

Blueprinted D6DE Ford 250 Six; Jahns Racing cast pistons at @ 10:1CR, Clifford Shot Peened and Balanced Rods, Clifford 272H Cam, Line Bored & Balanced Bottom End, Torque Plate Machined .070 Cylinder Overbore, Sealed Power moly rings, Clevite “77” tri-metal main/rod bearings, FE Chrome-moly pushrods, Stainless steel 1.88 intake valves/1.50 exh with- silicon springs and HD retainers, Ported and Polished chambers and relieved valve shrouds . Cloyes timing set, Melling blueprinted HP oil pump, Anti-pump up lifters, Fisher custom Harmonic Balancer, Offenhauser Tri-Power 3X1 aluminum intake manifold w/ Offy progressive linkage, Modified Holley 1904 series glass bowl carbs w/ K&N air filters, Exhaust 3/4 port divider, Re-Curved Duraspark electronic distributor, Indexed Champion racing spark plugs, Brass expansion plugs, Detroit hipo gasket set, Clifford blueprinted engine oil startup additive, Polished aluminum alternator, timing chain cover, thermostat housing, water pump. PCV., Matte black/alum. 6=8 Clifford valve cover. SFI 157 neutral balance-lightened racing flywheel spinning Centerforce Stage II Clutch, T5-Z Cobra 5speed, Short throw Hurst shifter, 8” 3.80:1 TracLoc Posi rear, Shelby Traction Masters and sway bars, Mustang front strut bars, Scarebird Disc front brakes, Body subframe connectors, 8 Point Roll bar, 5 point Safety Racing Belts, Mustang 5.0 alum. racing radiator, GM HEI Ignition, Perma-Cool electric pusher fan, Holley fuel pressure regulator, Hooker dual out longtube headers, Smithy silencers, Original tube radio and vacuum wipers… .
 
8) the first thing you want to do is decide exactly what you want from the car, and then build accordingly. for instance if you want a lot of power, and performance, and you want to do it the easy way, a V8 is the best way to go.

on the other hand if you just want a nice snappy performing car that gets decent mileage, and is different, stick with the six.
 
As my old signature used to say:

"Its not how fast you go, but how go you fast"

Basically, if you want more than 200 RWHP without having to do too much engineering, a V-8 is the way to go. But, if you want decent power, a reliable build that everyone hasn't seen 5000 times, the I6 is a good place to be.

But it depends on what's important to you. For me, its partly about the power, and partly about doing something different. I love going to show and shines (I don't do judged shows) and having people wonder what's under the hood and then see the jaws drop when they see a 200 in there. I love the fact that when I walk down a line of mustangs, mine is likely the only build that hasn't been detailed in a mustang magazine at some point, or looks like 2-3 other mustangs at the same show.

However, if I wanted raw power, cheap and easy. V-8. At this point on my car, everything but the engine is V-8 (and radiator I guess). V-8 brakes, suspension, transmission, rear end. But can't bring myself to drag out the I6.
 
Thanks for the responses!! I love the Idea of the I-6,as for my goal its to build a reliable,fun loving car that starts everytime and i can drive anywhere(if thats what u meant by goal Falcon btw im from PA too where ya at?) but i also will be driving her on the turnpike and what not so i do want it to have some go behind it(and burn a little rubber too :shock: )..i know very little about how the 200 even runs as my car didnt run when i got it..if i could get 200 to the rear wheels i think that would be fun car to drive..i dont mind spending the money or time on the car at all i guess its the talent(know-how) that i lack with the I-6..as time gets close ill have to call Classic for some build ideas..thanks again for the posts and please keep them comming!!!
 
Realistically, 150 RWHP is pretty easy and relatively inexpensive to achieve from the 200. Looking at my routes, probably would go between $500-2000 depending on which direction you took and how patient you are at waiting for good deals to pop up.

However, there are other things that must accompany those upgrades, preferably before.
1) Solid suspension (hitting bumps at 70 MPH with bum shocks = very dangerous ride)

2) upgraded brakes. With more power, you should have more ability to brake. V-8 drums all around would be in my opinion the minimum for 150 RWHP. Ideally, disc brakes up front (V-8 or 4 lug version).

3) At that HP, you may need to upgrade the rear end to an 8". My set up chewed up my already worn 7.25" in one summer.

200 RWHP is still reachably, but the $$$/HP from 150 to 200 starts to go up exponentially, unless you go with a cheap forced air set up to get that last power.

While the 68 is slightly heavier than a 65, the 150RWHP I have in my 65 is more than enough for spirited driving and passing power. But that's also a combination of gearing and transmission.
 
Thanks Cobra..everthing on the car is being replaced. Shocks-springs,7 1/2 to 8 inch rear with 3:55 gears, t-5 transmission and 4 wheel discs all the way around..
 
Tim1970":3b2r0xk0 said:
Thanks Cobra..everthing on the car is being replaced. Shocks-springs,7 1/2 to 8 inch rear with 3:55 gears, t-5 transmission and 4 wheel discs all the way around..

What setup for the front and rear disc brakes will you be using?

I'm planning a 4 wheel disc setup for my 65 Mustang. I'm going with a 5-lug Scarebird conversion for the front, and Crown Vic rear discs on an 8-inch Maverick rear end. I'm still deciding on what master cylinder to use but am leaning toward a Granada/Monarch manual 4 wheel disc MC.

Have fun.
 
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