Headers verus throttle connection...

[Anonymous]

Got a problem...got the new Pacemaker header on the 66 convertible and they look great. Good fit.

Problem is the throttle lever does not fall down to where it used to be. In fact it's up at about WOT position based on where it was formerly connected. As it is now, there's no more push left in the pedal. I have an 1100 Autolite on the stock carb spacer.

Has anyone bent the accelerator linkage so it does not interfere with the header. It's pretty heavy piece of metal.

Or is there a way to use a cable on an Autolite 1100 that needs to have the stock connection go up to accelerate, not fore/aft? How do you make a cable push the linkage up? Or pull it up?

In the pic below the linakge is resting on the header a good 5 inches above where it used to be.

Steve-O

 

[ludwig]

I tried a sophisticated sleeve and set-screw idea. I cut the rod in half, rotated the carb end about 45*, clamped this in a vise and through-drilled the whole thing with an aluminum tube where the rod was cut at the firewall part. The tube was a little too big and the set screws never really bit. Didn't work worth squat.
Got another one from the junkyard and clamped it in the vise. I took the rest of the tubing, slipped it over the carb end about 1/2 the length of the carb arm and bent it down about 45* using brute force.
The gas pedal was a little low when I made it up again - like 1" from the floor - so I clamped it up again and jerked the pedal end up. Now the whole apparatus is flat from the bottom of the pedal end to where I bent the carb end. This part is cocked about 45* down. When I put it back in, it worked just great. The carb end is exactly parallel to the log head, bent just in back of the last header tube and the pedal is the right distance off the floor.
Get a backup piece just in case you ruin the first one. They are cheap. Also, watch that the part of the shaft bolted to the firewall doesn't bow up or down. It needs to be straight after you finish your low-tech mods.

 

[Anonymous]

Mine hit but not as bad as yours is....I just marked where I had to bend mine and bent it. Its not as strong as you think!

Its only a 10 minute job to remove the whole assy, so its easy enough to remove and bend it in a vice.

Later,

Doug

 

[CobraSix]

I tried bending it...major PITA. I used a heating torch.

This a great time to add a cable throttle.

Slade

 

[addo]

Definitely hot bend. I have seen one here fail in cold bending. Imagine not having acceleration just when your life depended on it.

 

[Anonymous]

Definitely hot bend. I have seen one here fail in cold bending. Imagine not having acceleration just when your life depended on it.

That is my plan at this stage bend with heat assist at the shop...

I figure I'll try the simplest fix attempt first, then move up to throttle cable installations...

Thanks.

r/
Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

I tried a sophisticated sleeve and set-screw idea. I cut the rod in half, rotated the carb end about 45*, clamped this in a vise and through-drilled the whole thing with an aluminum tube where the rod was cut at the firewall part. The tube was a little too big and the set screws never really bit. Didn't work worth squat.
Got another one from the junkyard and clamped it in the vise. I took the rest of the tubing, slipped it over the carb end about 1/2 the length of the carb arm and bent it down about 45* using brute force.
The gas pedal was a little low when I made it up again - like 1" from the floor - so I clamped it up again and jerked the pedal end up. Now the whole apparatus is flat from the bottom of the pedal end to where I bent the carb end. This part is cocked about 45* down. When I put it back in, it worked just great. The carb end is exactly parallel to the log head, bent just in back of the last header tube and the pedal is the right distance off the floor.
Get a backup piece just in case you ruin the first one. They are cheap. Also, watch that the part of the shaft bolted to the firewall doesn't bow up or down. It needs to be straight after you finish your low-tech mods.

Woah...I can't picture in my head what you are trying to describe...it sounds complicated...a picture is worth a thousand words. Have you got any?

Steve-O

 

[MustangSix]

Many years ago I had the same problem with the Cliffy headers. I simply took the linkage off, bent it in my vise, and bolted it back on. Actually two bends to put a shallow "S" in the lenkung. Problem solved. Forget trying to bend it while in the car. You cant get enough leverage on it at the right place.

 

[ludwig]

My bad attempt is not worth the trouble to photograph. The successful one just looks like a hockey stick from the side: long and straight then cocked down some.

 

[CobraSix]

Jack is right...don't even attempt in car. All you'll end up doing is bending the firewall in, dinging your coated headers, and getting really pissed...

Luckily, the last two happened to me first and I gave up before the first thing. But by then, I was deteremined to get a cable throttle.

Slade

 

[66200i6]

I had put this page together some time ago. Check out the pics that show the linkage mod and I think I also discribed how I was able to make the mod.

http://home.comcast.net/~tuckerjr3/head ... nstall.htm

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

Ric,
Great stuff. Thanks.
Steve-O

 

[Anonymous]

Here's what I did...I took the accelerator linkage to the shop at work and bent it as shown below to clear the header. I used an oxy-acetylene torch and vise.

Next I did a mock up. Once I was certain it would work I secured the linkage connection to the firewall with new bolts. Then I cleaned up and painted the linkage with rust reformer to make it look like cast metal. With the carb connection at it lowest position the accelerator linkage clears the header by an easy 3/4". No nicks or dings. I had to shorten the little linkage that goes between the accelerator linakge and the carb with a dremel tool. Now it's good to go.

Mock up install

The finished install. I set up my heat choke tube, connected a accelerator retract spring off a bracket I put on an unused exhaust bolt on the block.
Looks good. Now to get the exhaust installed from the headers back and drive the car finally.

Could not have done this without this forum. Thanks.

Steve-O

 

[addo]

Hey, that even looks cool! The photo with a white rag reminds me of a snake head.