heater blower motors

[Anonymous]

What is wuith the anemia builtinto the heater blower motor? With the last spell of cold weather I neede to use the defroser which is a rare occassion in Houston. The blower barely classifies as a blower. Now when I get up to driving speed air moves through really well. I redid the dreaded rust out under the intake cowl and installed a new blower way back but it always seems to be extremely slow andanyways doesn't move much air. What about upgrades to this.

 

[CobraSix]

My blower puts out some serious air...wonder if you have a blockage somewhere or a bad unit (goodness, that sounds kinky when I say it out loud).

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

it sure does...but i betif u never said anything most of us wouldn't have noticed...i mean we'reguys we dont think like that...

 

[Anonymous]

Okay I like kinky and blockages but the last thing I want to do is crawl up under the dash. I was at the Nationals (nhra) last weekend and saw a head sticking up in the hood scoop area of a fiberglass car body working somewhere in the area that would be the dash. Wish I could cut a hole in the floorboards andget my head in there that way.

All of the wiring is new and the blowermotor and the duct work.

Onlow speed practically nothing is heard on the second same and the third it barely makes a flow that can be felt at the heater duct or the defrost outlet. Maybe the blower unit is bad. Could I have the fan backwards wired?

 

[CobraSix]

Check your connections...also check the speed selector connections and points. My motor will sometimes not work right at first until I quickly push the speed to high, then back to off, then back to the speed I want. I think I may have some corrosion on the connectors...

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Hey ivygreen,
I have the same problem except I redid the interior and htr box. I replaced the motor out of necessity but it still doesnt blow real well. It comes out at the bottom pretty well but very little defrost. I replaced all seals in box and know there is no open flap or clog. When I was connecting wireing I tried reversing polarity but made little diff. if I remember right. I have come to the conclusion that It is either supposed to be that way of it's not getting enough juice. I'm interested in some input since me and Inygreen seem to have the same problem.
Thanks,
Paul

 

[kirkallen143]

When I redid the bronco's heater/blower assembly, found a very large dead rat in it. I don't know how close the mustang and bronco heaters are, but they do use alot of similar parts. Is your defrost duct hose in good/new condition? Too many holes or tears in hose is "no bueno". When I pull the defrost cable (flap), I have to pull the heater cable (flap), also to get good air quantity. Play around with it, I found this by trial and error.

Kirk ' 73 bronco

 

[Anonymous]

my heater plenum isnt attached all the way. I dont get good flow...but I also broke off the part where the cable attaches...a new plenum and I should be good to go

so check your plenum

 

[Anonymous]

reversal of the heater blower wires only reverses direction of flow: no air blown.
check of the voltage at the bloser motor is the same 12.4 volts on all settings. low med and high.
check of the switch shows the motor doesn't turn at all on the low and med settings. Switch cost is 74 dollars. I'll look at the schematics and see that probably the switch acts through a gound and there is direct current to the blower motor. What is the resistor heater switch for? Thought this got replaced on the rebuild and thought it was some type of heater sensor.

I'll take another look at the schematics and see if aI can direct current flow to the blower, No rats or blockages though.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI IVYGREEN66

I noticed on mine 61 comet I have the 3 pull knobs one say's defrost, one temp and the other is heater and rotate for the fan.. If yours is like mine I have to have the heater pulled out to get air thou the system.. If I don't and just pull the defrost knob and the temp knob I get no air from the defrost.. You might try pulling out the heater knob as it might be what lets the air in the system..
Hopes this helps..
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

I had similar problems with trying to defrost my windows during rainy days. I bought a new heater box it was plastic two pieces so where the two join u get air leaks i took some glue and went around the whole box to seal it good then i took my hoses and sealed any holes, then i took some aluminum tape and covered the bottom of the heater so that the only opening for air to go is up to my vents. Works like a charm

 

[Anonymous]

The schematic shows the switch is the ground so there is 12 volts to the motor all the time. the switch puts you through a choice of two resistor wires and then full ground on high. I get voltage only on the high setting at twelve volts. The blower motor only works on high. I checked all the wires unplugging and plugging them back in and wiggled the heater switch alot. Now I get a good blowing, fairt at best. on the high setting only. Don't know what I shook loose but it works. I'll do a closer check of the resistor at the heater box and hot wire or hot to ground as it is when I get time this weekend. All my cables work perfectly and the heater box was completely rebuilt and all new seals when I put in the air conditioning last year. It was real messy and dirty to clean up but basically is glued and clipped together as original.