HElp choosing camshaft 200 c.i.

[sctty1986]

hello all i have posted about this on this board before now about choosing a camshaft. the engine is stock everything except for :

.040 pistons small dish.
.005 deck
ported head
adjustable rockers
8.7 compression
back cut valves
un shrouded valves
homemade header

My question is even if i were to use a (stock replacement camshaft) would this yield any noticeable improvement?
seeing as how i use this car for around town driving and some highway driving. at about 2500 - 3000 rpms . The car is a

1980 mustang ghia
3 speed
200 c.i. crank has BB code and block says be or de. not sure.
stock rear.
5.0 rims with stock configuration tires.

 

[sctty1986]

sowwy about the typo i stated my compression was 8.7 dc its 8.3 dc with classic inlines 264/274 112 camshaft
it IS 9.1 static. if i use the stock cam ill only be able to run premiuim gas right? or am i wrong?
i have another dilema i need to work out, valve springs. with the stock cam what springs should i use to help .

 

[falcon1963]

sowwy about the typo i stated my compression was 8.7 dc its 8.3 dc with classic inlines 264/274 112 camshaft
it IS 9.1 static. if i use the stock cam ill only be able to run premiuim gas right? or am i wrong?
i have another dilema i need to work out, valve springs. with the stock cam what springs should i use to help .

Go with an Isky 262 camshaft with matching valve springs.
While you have the head off mill it at least .050" to get your compression up.
Use a victor head gasket, which carquest sells.
You will probably have to run 89 octane.
The distributor should have 24 degrees of centrifigul advance & set the initial timing to 14 degrees for a total of 38 degrees.
You will be very pleased with the performance. Falcon Man

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Sctty and all:

The cam in an '80 200 is very different from the cams in 75 and earlier cams. It is very advanced to all low end torque at the expense of the upper end of the rpm range. The lift is .372". This is also a high vacuum cam with a total duration of 256. At a 9:1 CR that would create very high cylinder pressure so 91 octane gas is likely needed.

Id suggest a ARC 268/274 108 or 110 or a CSC 264/274 110 from Mike at Classic Inline. Both should be installed straight up and both will make life with a static CR of 9:1 more enjoyable. You'll easily get by with 87 octane gas. Even though the duration is not that much greater the profile is much fatter and you'll notice the performance both on the botton and at the higher rpm ranges.

Your stock valve springs, shimmed .030" should be able to handle either of these cams at the rpms your likley to see with a stock carb. I would suggest that you add new lifters and a timing set when you do the cam.

Adios, David

 

[sctty1986]

see the thing is the stock springs i have right now arent gonna cut it. even shimmed.
while disassembling the engine i pushed on the head of a valve assembled and i could open it with very little force. i know they are shot. would u suggest 302 sbf springs?, or would i have to get the keepers and locks also?

 

[MPGmustang]

your stock keepers and locks will work perfectly fine with any spring choice. the new ones taht mike sells are lighter and less weight = little more power is what i'm told. will u feel it, no.

if it's a new engine and old springs I would just get new springs. it's easier to do it now instead of later. stock springs use the stock lift, your going almost 1.5 higher than stock on lift so you'll want it to close faster.

 

[sctty1986]

i have another question about changin the springs. ok i had a friend that build a 302 and the keeper popped off the valve while idling. and dropped the valve into the engine rendering everything useless. Brand New engine mind you.

the question i have is that if i were to use a stiffer spring would the stock keepers and the valve lip especially, hold to the greater than stock forces?

 

[rbohm]

8) usually when i keeper fails, it was because of improper installation. very rarely does a keeper fail for any other reason, though i have seen it happen. you can usually tell because the bump in the keeper is munched if it was properly installed and failed.

 

[Explorer]

I've got a set of new 302 springs that I didn't use on my build. If interested, PM me and I'll let you have them at a bargain price.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy All:

MPGmustang wrote- "the new ones taht mike sells are lighter and less weight = little more power".

FYI- Lighter retainers won't make more power, but lighter valve train components will require less valve spring pressure to control. By control, I mean less prone to hang a valve open aka float, at higher rpms. The stiffer 289 and 302 springs are stiffer than the stock 200 springs, adding wear and stress to all related components; cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, rocker arm shaft, valve tips and valve seats. Ideally, you will want the least amount of valve spring pressure to control the valves at all expected rpm ranges. Too much pressure is wasted energy.

Sctty- I don't recall reading what carb you intend to use with this engine?

Adios, David

 

[sctty1986]

i am going to use for the moment of break in the stock pony carb. then i have a holley 5200 ready to install. should i take the head to get milled and the adapter installed or would the 1-2 adapter work? work i mean run proper without bogging or flat spots.

 

[rbohm]

8) the two barrel to one barrel adapter will work fine. that said if you are going to use a two barrel carb anyway, then go ahead and mill the log for the two barrel carb, and just use the two barrel carb straight away rather than adapt the two barrel later on.

 

[JackFish]

It's probably a good idea to break in a new engine with a known good carb that's already tuned up rather than having to fiddle with an untested carb right away.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy All:

I missed Explorer's offer for the 302 springs. They are all you will likely ever need considering your plan. Check him out for a deal.

Sctty- If/when you're taking the head off to be milled, that's the time to convert it to a two barrel. If/when you are installing a new cam and lifters, the head will likely be off. That's the time to do all of the head work. It's possible to install a cam with the head on, but it is much easier with it off. Doing the break-in of the cam with a known carb is good advice. You may want to put the 5200 on before tear down to get it tuned and running good before the cam install.

Both the Holley #1946 and the 5200 will be undercarbed for your planned engines potential. When you have the head modified for the 5200 have it done so that you could switch to an Autolite 2100. That will give you many size options and require alot less tuning. IF I were in your shoes, I'd be looking for a good 2100 in a 1.14 size. It's easy to swap down to a 1.01 or 1.02 for mileage and low end or up to a 1.23 for a day at the strip. CFMs will range from 240ish on the low side to 350 on the high end. The 1.14 comes in at 300 cfm.

We should have asked what your intended use is for this engine?

Adios, David

 

[sctty1986]

basically spirited daily driving maybe a visit to the strip

 

[mugsy]

Remember the 3-C's of power: Carb, Camshaft, Compression...

Build the lower end/short block with durability in mind. So rods, rings, bearings, pistons all need to be high quality pieces. You won't find a bunch of power in the high tech versions of them. Then upgrade the "3-C's" for speed/power. Also you should also look to upgrade the ignition and exhaust system to get more power too.

I think you are well on your way, but do change the camshaft.