Hit a Brick Wall.

[Shakey Bender]

Proverbally speaking I'm ready to throw up a white flag. I've gone as far as you can go on enthiusiasm alone. If there is anyone locally or willing to spend some time on the phone I've got big problems in the experience dept. rebuilding and assembling my 200. I don't have the resources needed to make sure I'm not seriously screwing up. I could probably go out and spend the money on the implements to measure the tolerances I need to achieve the compression ratio. But I don't have any education in that field. Mathematics seems to be a key element and its not my strong suit. I hate wearing my life out there on my sleeve but here it is I'm desperate. At this point I ask myself why I did'nt just have a pro take care of it. Well I think we were all there at one point or another. No one was born with the knowledge. I want to learn to be sufficient in this area but need to find someone to get me started on the right track.
Problem areas:
milling the head/ how much
checking the deck height/ has it allready been milled
selecting the proper tools for doing this and the proper method for using them
new cam install/ how do you install the dog or shearpin is it a press fit and how do you source one or can the old one be reused.


I have the perf guide and it has been invaluable. I have a shop manual circa 1960's but it is written for a mechanic not a doityourselfer. Most if not all of the repairs are for replacement of parts as a whole and doesn't give detail on modifying stock parts for performance. What I don't have is the old guy next door retired mechanic club member who I can shake down after sharing a few beers. Where are you guys?
Thank all; Sorry about the long sob story post.
ShakeyBender

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

I'll give you a hand give me a number and I can give you a call.

as far as measuring the head and piston dish I did this...

at the local farm supply I bought some large syringes for horses or whater...pack of three for like $10. then hit the hardware store that cuts plexi and glass and found a scrap of the thickest plexi they had for $4 drilled a hole in that and with a little cheap vasoline you can CC the head and pistons.just smear a little on the valves to seal them in the head and a little on the "plate" and measure away. this isn't a SUPER accurate way but gets the job done.

if you cna take some of the measurements I can do the math for you.

 

[addo]

Mr Blender: I measured an UNCUT log head from the late '60s. This was an Aussie issue unit, made to work with a thin composite gasket.

From the head bolt spotfacing to the milled gasket face measured 2 3/8 inches rear, and maybe 8 thou more at the front. The whole head is bent like a banana; either end sits up in the air about 10-12 thou.

Can't see any reason why Ford Oz would have used different machining specs there to the US. Hope it helps, anyway!

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Bort62]

Truthfully, If you just say f**k it and bolt it all togehter, it will run fine also

You may not make every last little bit of HP, but it depends on your goals.

For example, I took a unknown deck height 200 block with stock pistons, and slapped on a D8 head with unknown chamber size. I had it milled enough to clean it up and bolted it on.

Runs fine. It's slow as a dog but - its a stock 200. What do you expect? My car is a cruiser, not a asphault burner.

If you want to crank as much as you can out of the motor, then you need to figure out how to do all this stuff. If you just want to get it back together so you can drive... it's not super important.

Now, I am sure there are plenty here who will disagree with me, but it just depends on your priorities

 

[matt1967]

well for specs I use a 1974 Motors Manual, only goes back to '68 but, only thing that changed between '67 and '68 was the distributor, and the part #'s don't match for the harmonic balancers, so there diffrent between '65-'67 and '68-up. compression calculators are on the internet, the falcon performance handbook site has 1.