Holley 1946 Kickdown

MrMootsie

Well-known member
Hey,

I've sent a PM to Asa, but perhaps other folks can contribute as well. I canned my 1100 for a 1946, and, as my installation thread shows, it was a good upgrade. The electric choke is killing me, though. I may have missed something in installation, but the only thing I did was connect switched power to the choke. Is there a magical kickdown on this that I'm unaware of?

thanks.
 
Did you hook up the carb's electric choke to the stator lug of the alt? If not try that, it's the correct way to hookup an electric choke.
 
if it's like the Carters take off the black cap & have a look @ the coil for any probs (bug nests, etc).
 
Stator lug...new one on me. I will try that. Just out of curiosity, though, why would that make a difference?
 
Ford decided to use this method on cars that were equipped with a Duraspark ignition. Benefit's are that it's a switched source of voltage only when the engine is running, about the best reason though is that it doesn't open the choke too quickly, a smaller benefit is it's a short wire run to the carb.
 
There is a port for a choke stove from the exhaust manifold on that carb.
Did you hook it up to anything?
You can get a variety of Dorman Help kits for them.
 
JackFish":10j4zidf said:
There is a port for a choke stove from the exhaust manifold on that carb.
Did you hook it up to anything?
You can get a variety of Dorman Help kits for them.
Nope, left that alone because of the electric choke.
 
Umm this is in addition to the electric choke, my Fairmont has both hooked up.
That's they way they are designed.
 
X2 You will need that choke stove hooked up too, so without it that would be the main reason for it not working right.
 
bubba22349":1d9uxw3b said:
X2 You will need that choke stove hooked up too, so without it that would be the main reason for it not working right.
Heading to NAPA tomorrow for the choke tube kit. I will let you know.
 
I believe any pipe the right dia to fit in the opening will do, just channels heat up...
:thumbup:
 
It makes sense , once I wrapped my dim little brain around it. Now I'm completely happy with the 1946. Much more preferable to the 1100.
 
"...preferable to the 1100..."
Y? sorry 4 any repeats, did not C ur build thread
(& some say the 1100 is the best carb 4 this engine "in the world").
Thanks, Mr. M!
 
chad":2ti2jv5l said:
"...preferable to the 1100..."
Y? sorry 4 any repeats, did not C ur build thread
(& some say the 1100 is the best carb 4 this engine "in the world").
Thanks, Mr. M!

I could never get the 1100 to idle correctly, and this was a Pony Carbs 1100. It always idled roughly. I had many people look at it, put a phenolic spacer under it for heat, played with the choke, F/A mixture, timing, etc... Never got it dialed in correctly I switched to the 1946, and, other than the choke tube issue in this thread, I've had no problems. This was with a recently rebuilt engine.
 
"...and this was a Pony Carbs 1100..."
Wow, "vaporized" or what ever too?
Hey I need a low rise carb 4 my bronk when I put in the 250/4.1. If U still got it may B I can make it wrk?
I hear it's 1 of the lowest 4 this motor (beside the RBS which may B a lill higher?).
 
I have used all of the different carb types on sixes over the years I do like the Autolites IMOP is best for economy have not tried one of the Ponys. Last new carb I bought was a Holley 1946 been using on a 300 six for many years now :thumbup:
 
"...Holley 1946 been using on a 300 six..."
aren't the boar and 2 bolts different between the 300 & 250 ("bigger" and "further apart") so they don't directly swap?
How is it made to flow correctly for the extra cubes?
 
don't know about those motors, but on early 200 heads, the head is 1.5", which is fine for a 1100. I think 68 and on, the head is 1.75", which is also fine for a 1946, but you have to have the carb plate which rotates the carb 90 degrees.
 
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