Hey All,
I introduced myself about a year ago before the forum modernization, and my original post appears to have disappeared; otherwise, this would've been an add-on to the post. I am basically repairing and trying to get my 1966 Mustang Convertible more daily driver ready. I recently purchased brand new suspension, new hoses, fuel pump, starter solenoid, battery / ground cables, engine gauge harness, alternator and headlight harnesses, vacuum lines, brake lines, spindles, and getting ready for disc brake upgrade in the next couple weeks. I plan on upgrading to a DS2 set-up, and possibly upgrading the alternator. My car is all mismatched with different parts; block is from a 78 Fairlaine, exhaust manifold is from 63 Falcon, and cylinder head is from a 65 Mustang. It's matched with a manual 4 speed ( having issues identifying the transmission but it looks sort of square shaped) with a hurst competition shifter. The 3.3 straight six was rebuilt mid to late (05-08) 2000's, but I do not know to what extent. The LOM distributor based on part # was supposedly used for automatic transmission. The car has always run fairly well, but I've decided to use it as my daily driver ( because I love this Mustang and I'm 29 ) and begin to upgrade the reliability. I'm not too concerned about "originality" since everything else about the car seems to have already been changed.
Anyway, I finally have an opportunity to work on my Mustang again. I'm getting ready to rebuild the carburetor, and it's something that I'd like to tackle myself. If not, I found a reputable shop near-by that will do it but it's sort of pricey at about $350 (however, includes tuning carb and timing). I'd rather attempt to do it myself because I feel I'd enjoy it, but I've never rebuilt one.
I've been searching through the forum for any additional tips and possible guides. I want to ensure I build this correctly based on future plans. I plan on purchasing a DS2 with module/coil shortly to replace LOM distributor. I understand that I will need to plug the SCV in order to get it to work correctly. Is there a specific plug that I can purchase for this cause, or are people fabricating their own pieces? Also, some time ago, the original pipe for the hot air choke broke off; I was going to purchase a kit from Napa to fabricate a new one and flare it to fit correctly. Although, again, I want to use what's most ideal, so is it better to use the original hot air or upgrade to an electric choke? How do you also identify difference between 65-66 and 67 and up Autolite 1100's? Is it during the break down?
I plan on purchasing a rebuild kit from Vintage Inlines to support the cause
, or locally if they're unavailable. I'm in the Garden Grove/Anaheim area in SoCal.
Here are some photos in case someone out there can identify which specific Autolite 1100 that I do have or any other observations.
I constantly creep these forums and try to search for what I can before posting anything, but I really appreciate this community. I hope all is well.
- Richard
I introduced myself about a year ago before the forum modernization, and my original post appears to have disappeared; otherwise, this would've been an add-on to the post. I am basically repairing and trying to get my 1966 Mustang Convertible more daily driver ready. I recently purchased brand new suspension, new hoses, fuel pump, starter solenoid, battery / ground cables, engine gauge harness, alternator and headlight harnesses, vacuum lines, brake lines, spindles, and getting ready for disc brake upgrade in the next couple weeks. I plan on upgrading to a DS2 set-up, and possibly upgrading the alternator. My car is all mismatched with different parts; block is from a 78 Fairlaine, exhaust manifold is from 63 Falcon, and cylinder head is from a 65 Mustang. It's matched with a manual 4 speed ( having issues identifying the transmission but it looks sort of square shaped) with a hurst competition shifter. The 3.3 straight six was rebuilt mid to late (05-08) 2000's, but I do not know to what extent. The LOM distributor based on part # was supposedly used for automatic transmission. The car has always run fairly well, but I've decided to use it as my daily driver ( because I love this Mustang and I'm 29 ) and begin to upgrade the reliability. I'm not too concerned about "originality" since everything else about the car seems to have already been changed.
Anyway, I finally have an opportunity to work on my Mustang again. I'm getting ready to rebuild the carburetor, and it's something that I'd like to tackle myself. If not, I found a reputable shop near-by that will do it but it's sort of pricey at about $350 (however, includes tuning carb and timing). I'd rather attempt to do it myself because I feel I'd enjoy it, but I've never rebuilt one.
I've been searching through the forum for any additional tips and possible guides. I want to ensure I build this correctly based on future plans. I plan on purchasing a DS2 with module/coil shortly to replace LOM distributor. I understand that I will need to plug the SCV in order to get it to work correctly. Is there a specific plug that I can purchase for this cause, or are people fabricating their own pieces? Also, some time ago, the original pipe for the hot air choke broke off; I was going to purchase a kit from Napa to fabricate a new one and flare it to fit correctly. Although, again, I want to use what's most ideal, so is it better to use the original hot air or upgrade to an electric choke? How do you also identify difference between 65-66 and 67 and up Autolite 1100's? Is it during the break down?
I plan on purchasing a rebuild kit from Vintage Inlines to support the cause
, or locally if they're unavailable. I'm in the Garden Grove/Anaheim area in SoCal.Here are some photos in case someone out there can identify which specific Autolite 1100 that I do have or any other observations.
I constantly creep these forums and try to search for what I can before posting anything, but I really appreciate this community. I hope all is well.
- Richard
