Holley 2300 or 4bbl choke pull off adjustment

wsa111

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Just a bit of technical advice for you owners of engines with the holley 2300 2bbl or any holley 4bbl with the automatic choke option with this adjustment feature.
The adjustment is for the choke pull off. Many of you possibly have no idea what i'm talking about. When you adjust the choke housing for the proper tension, there is another adjustment many owners are not even aware it exists,
The adjustment is after you start a cold engine the choke blade has to be cracked the correct amount. If the setting is too rich blubbering & black smoke will follow after a cold start, then go away after several seconds or minuites after starting-the other extreme is too much choke pulloff or choke blade opening after startup causing a lean stall. Remember i'm assuming your fast idle cam setting is correctly set.
This setting is on the choke casting. If you are too rich back out the small screw adjustment till the choke blade opens the proper amount to prevent the rich blubbering after cold start-up. If you have a lean stall after start-up you can turn the adjustment in clockwise to slightly close the choke blade for proper richness.
IF YOU MAKE THIS ADJUSTMENT FIRSTS CLOSE THE CHOKE BLADE MANUALLY THEN TURN THE SCREW IN OTHERWISE DAMAGE TO THE CHOKE PISTON IN THE HOUSING CAN BE PREVENTED.
Take a look at the photos & the adjustment screw will be obivious.
Hope this helps many of you holley owners. William
choke2.jpg

choke3.jpg

choke1.jpg
 
Will,

great info. Does this setting tend to be temp sensitive? I have that adjustment on my 390 4V. In the summer, it tends to belch more black smoke and in the winter, more stalling.

Just curious.

Slade
 
Slade, different temperatures could effect the proper air fuel mixture. The mechanical setting does not change. I would put a new choke thermostat housing on & make the proper tension adjustment, fast idle cam speed adjustment, then make the choke pulloff setting.
Also check for a full 12 volts+ to the electric choke.
Its very possible you may have to make changes, especially where you live. Your temperatures range from the 90's down to 0.
Give us feedback on your findings. William
 
Man was this topic timely! I've got the 2300 and I'm still tinkering with it, but it really hates to start up. Blubbering is a perfect way to put it. I don't have the auto-choke (I don't even have a manual choke cable yet). Is there a similar adjustment to be made with manual choke?

When you pull the choke cable out to start up on a cold am, the blades CLOSE increasing the fuel:air (richening) mixture ratio correct? Then as the engine warms, you should incrementally (or just mentally) push the choke cable back in opening the blades to increase the air:fuel (leaning) ratio...again, correct?

I manaully close the blades (litterally, by hand right now) before starting it up. In that position, the car will not crank. Could it just be WAY too flooded/rich? It will turn over however will the blades open but MAN does it "blubber"

Do you guys prefer an auto or manual choke?

GREAT info! Thanks
 
I usually have to reset the idle mix in the winter, but I was just curious.

My car is going up on blocks this weekend for the rest of the winter. So I'm not worried about it this year.

Slade
 
BLOCKS?! NO! :( Move to Florida!!

just remember to get a "hurricane blew my car away" rider on your insurance policy!
 
Nah...that's the advantage of New England, I get 4-5 months of good car working weather. So I'll jack it up...but it on stands...and replace the front and rear end.

Slade
 
cool way to look at it. Replace the rear end huh? What are you doing with the one you've got? :wink: 8"?
 
Yeah..8", plan on a 3.25:1 maybe posi if I can scrape up the money. Granada discs up front.

I'm debating replacing the UCA and LCAs with TCP's line. If I do that, I may do the shelby drop, but I need to do some more research regarding Granada and shelby drops. I've read there have been binding issues with that before but I don't know if it was Global West or TCP.

Slade
 
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