Autolite 2100 Probs

[StarDiero75]

Howdy guys,

So I'm at wits end here with this 2100. It cruises at 14.7 on the highway at 60 in 5th (so good). But it requires I run a rich idle (11.8-12.2). I set up the choke per the rebuild manual then by how the 4100 is setup (YouTube video i found). It likes to run extremely lean (14.5-15) when choked and requires 2 pedal stomps. When I go around left turns it leans out past 18. When its cold it likes to die when i come to a stop (leans out past 18). When its hot, and I rev it to about 2000 in neutral, it leans out to around 16-17 and stumbles bad.

I'm about to raise the float a little more but I'm running out of things to do. I do have the PCV hooked up but it did the neutral lean out before. Currently I'm running 54 jets. The idle mixture screws are about 2.25 turns out. The idle is about 800-850.

I'm pretty sure the neural lean out and the lean cold choke are related. Maybe jets? Next size I have are 56s.

For those that don't know, i have a 200, 2V 1980 head, 1.75/1.5 port flow valves, 256H Schneider cam 2 deg advanced, dual out headers, 1.08 1968 2100.

Very much considering putting on this Holley 2300 350cfm i have. The last 2100 i had had weird issues and never ran right, so this doesn'tgive me fuzzy feelings with the current one. The only thing keeping me from the 2300 is that I don't where to start jetting wise.

Am I better off to figure out the 2100 or go with the 2300? If I'm better off with the 2100, what do you all think it could be? I've made damn sure there's no vaccum leaks. If I'm better off with the 2300, whats a good place to start with it?

Thanks guys
Ryan

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

Have you played with ignition timing any? just to see if it makes a difference. Vacuum advance and vacuum to it? I would double check all of this.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I find the hot air choke system to either work fine or be a major pain to get working. On a Holley 2300 I would start with the factory size jets and squirt nozzle. If you can't find out what size yours came with post the part number from the air horn and I'll look it up for you. Holley used different size jets on different 2300s. Good luck

 

[StarDiero75]

Have you played with ignition timing any? just to see if it makes a difference. Vacuum advance and vacuum to it? I would double check all of this.

Timing doesn't really change how it acts in this regard. I was running 18 degrees BTDC, now its at 16 and there's not any difference.

 

[StarDiero75]

Hi, I find the hot air choke system to either work fine or be a major pain to get working. On a Holley 2300 I would start with the factory size jets and squirt nozzle. If you can't find out what size yours came with post the part number from the air horn and I'll look it up for you. Holley used different size jets on different 2300s. Good luck

Thanks man! It is

80179
1434

I tried looking for it on Mikes Carb Parts and didn't have any luck

 

[B RON CO]

Sorry, my chart does not go back that far. I found the carb online, but I can't find any specific info on it. Good luck

 

[chad]

I no U like vids.
Here's 10 min on ur possible problem:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waNW-lm5Q6o
(BTW: no time, have not viewed myself)
let us know.
= = = = = = = = =
12/3/20
OK, 'checked out'...looks/sounds like it applies to this problem.
Ck his 2nd vid on it as well (right nxt to it).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bYVWJul3z8

 

[xctasy]

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... ator-Valve

HICV = Hot-Idle-Compensator-Valve

This is used on a good deal of Fords from 1963 onwards.

1984-1985 4180C 4-BBL Holley



1978-1980 1946 Holley (not 1981-1983 1946C, but it still has the plate for it)



1977-1985 2150 Motorcraft 2bbl



1969-1982 Holley Weber 5200-5210



1968-1971 4300 Autolite Speadbore



1965-1968 4100 Autolite




Set-up procedure

http://www.network54.com/Forum/88781/thread/1029160955/Hot+Idle+Compensator+Valve

The engine needs to be like goldilocks' porridge. Not to cold, not too hot, but just right. The shop manual for my 1963 Thunderbird says the purpose of the hot idle compensator valve is to allow more air into the idle mixture to help control an over-rich mixture when the entering air is very warm. The manual states that the over-rich mixture would result from the fact that the warmer air atomizes the fuel better, thus making less fuel necessary. It is kind of a negative choke, it sounds like. It continues to lean the fuel mixture at idle as the air warms, even after the choke valve is completely open. I suppose that, wherever along the continuum (from full choke to full negative choke) you set the idle, it will be a compromise. The car will be set to idle optimally when the engine is idling at that point on the continuum. But at other points on the continuum, the engine will probably be idle less than optimally. The engineers, by tial and error or by design, presumably determined that the best compromise, overall was achieved by setting the idle to be most efficient when the choke valve was fully open but the hot idle compensator valve was still closed. I don't know what temperature the hot idle compensator valve opens at. But one consideration the engineers may have had in mind is that it may be difficult or time consuming to get a healthy engine idling in a chilly mechanic's shop in the winter with the hood open and the air filter off to run hot enough that the valve will open. Therefore, they designed it so that the best result would be achieved if the idle was set when the hot idle compensator valve was closed

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81463&p=635459&hilit=hot+idle+compensator#p635459

First, try the basics. A good deal of tuning work-a-rounds are incorrectly set or absent. A 170 hp 200 small six is different to tune because Detroit never had big 2V carbs on aluminum head in lines with big cams and a large runner in take. The only thing close was the early Hyper Pack Slant Six Valiant V200 package.

Try Uncle Tony's Garage Jeep or AMC bleed back gasoline filter.

https://youtu.be/-t6geNGbEXM

A common problem is air fuel mixture swing when hot. Which Ford corrected starting 1963 on Air Con Lincolns Mercury and high end Fords with the Hot Engine Idle Compensator, a bi-metalic strip which corrects air fuel by air bleed at high temperature when fuel is percolating. If you 1.23 carb is from an AC car, it will probably have one on or by the air horn.

Example of one car with bleed back, and the problem when bleed-back is removed.

https://youtu.be/7svmL2mfpKE

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=79046&p=612194&hilit=hot+idle+compensator#p612194

I'm guessing you have the Autolite ignition that was designed to run with the Autolite 1101 1-bbl carb for 1968.

Any variance with manifold advance hookup and ignition dwell and set up will cause other idle issues. The art of making a 2-bbl six idle is to make sure the distributor vac advance and base crank advance is set up well and constant.

Its harder with A/C units, power steering, and under hood heat of sedans and Mustangs. Early 240 F 100's are easy.

If heat is a problem, an old Carter Hot Idle compensator, or reducing the fuel pressure with a Mr Gasket or Malplassi fuel pressure regulator can help.

The Jeep guys just use the stock AMC Jeep fuel return fuel filter for 232's and 258's.

Keep on with it. Lots of fun to Do It Yourself!

 

[StarDiero75]

I'm gonna try some advice my neighbor said. He said up the jets and raise the float level some. I will get back to you guys afterwards.

And thank you xcatsy for that wealth of knowledge. i don't know where you know how to find everything like that haha. I don't have that hot air thing on either carb. It would definitely be nice to have.

 

[chad]

edited post #7 above for ur viewing pleasure
(start the popcorn 1st/now)

 

[StarDiero75]

Sorry it took so long to get back, life happens.

The carb lacks a hot idle compensator valve or any of that, its a 68 1.08 off of a 302.

I'm at witts end guys. Its like I get somewhere and then I go backwards. I recently took it all apart again and found that the annular boosters were warped and were leaking at the base, I replaced them and checked for squareness. The car ran much better after that. The first cold start of the day issue seems to have been fixed! The car starts great after having warmed up and shut down all day so the choke prob has been resolved (I may have mentioned these probs or not). But it still likes to surge (go lean) when cruising. Ive gone up to 58 jets, I have 60s but bigger jets are now giving me other issues. When it first starts for the day its drowning in gas. When I floor it she starts getting into the 12ish AFR range, sometimes high 11s.... and the surging is still there. I have checked for vacuum leaks, i even made new gaskets today. The old gaskets were not leaking. It idles rough still now. She likes to idle with a 12ish idle. Anything higher results in rougher idle and causes the car to lean out on braking. The front idle mixture screw seems to determine that. I'm really starting to lose it. Is this just a fricked up carb or is there something I'm missing? This thing never runs consistently. Typically after driving it, and stopping, it'll run in the low 13s for a second, then slowly drift its way back to 12. Is this normal? I'm losing it.

Thanks guys,
Ryan

 

[xctasy]

See post #5


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... ator-Valve

All Hot Idle Compensators are the same. Air bleed devices to stop lean outs.

Some are designed to work with Posrive Crankcase Ventilation, others, just air bleeds in the inlet fuel line or the carb vent tube. The basic idea is to stop fuel vapour formation, and allow a richer mix by changing idle speed and fuel pressure.
Another thing is to hit the carb with an unlit butane torch to see if the log heads iron or the carb body is warped and perhaps causing a lean condition.

I would absolutely, and right NOW, buy the Jeep Motorcraft 2150 fuel filter with bleed back that Uncle Tony's Garage recomends in his video I listed above.

 

[StarDiero75]

See post #5


http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... ator-Valve

All Hot Idle Compensators are the same. Air bleed devices to stop lean outs.

Some are designed to work with Posrive Crankcase Ventilation, others, just air bleeds in the inlet fuel line or the carb vent tube. The basic idea is to stop fuel vapour formation, and allow a richer mix by changing idle speed and fuel pressure.
Another thing is to hit the carb with an unlit butane torch to see if the log heads iron or the carb body is warped and perhaps causing a lean condition.

I would absolutely, and right NOW, buy the Jeep Motorcraft 2150 fuel filter with bleed back that Uncle Tony's Garage recomends in his video I listed above.

I saw the hot air compensator but the carb does not have one, nor looks like it should have one. Its a very basic carb.

Thats a good idea, I totally didn't think of that. What will happen? Will the car idle go up or what?

I have the AMC fuel filter with the bleed back. I've yet to install it since I've been lazy about putting in a return line. What size return line should I run? 5/16" or 1/4"?

 

[xctasy]

"$8 Cure For Vapor Lock"is a 60 to 100 thou restrictor in the third return line. So you can use 1/4 or 5/16 internal diameter hose to the filler neck on your gas tank, Does10s style.