All Small Six 66' 200 automatic dies when I press the gas pedal

[gserafini]

I am having an issue where the car starts and idles great, then dies right when I tough the gas pedal. If i'm at a stop idling for too long or leave it in park idling for a bit and then press the gas, it will stall and I have to turn it back on. I seem to not have the problem when the car is warm and drives on the open road for a few minutes. After really driving it and then getting to a stop, this issue doesn't happen. It's like the car wants to be driving for a few before its happy. If not, the gas pedal acts like a kill switch. Any idea whats happening here?
I have the timing right about 12 degrees tdc, and the idle mixture seems good (i think). I re-did the vacuum lines to the carb (though i'm not positive my vacuum advance is actually working). And I can't tell if i'm getting too much gas or not enough. Also the choke seems to be operating correctly. It is closed cold, and after a couple minutes of warming the car up I can see the choke is open. Sorry for the rant, wanted to give some details. Any ideas?

 

[Soldmy66]

You might want to see if the accelerator pump is working properly.

 

[gserafini]

You might want to see if the accelerator pump is working properly.

I think it seems to be working. I pulled on the accelerator linkage a few times and could see the pump arm moving and hear it squirting into the carb. Then I tried to start it and it wouldn't start for several tries because I think I flooded the carb. Also once I get it actually driving on the open road, drives and accelerates great

 

[gserafini]

Okay update, I’m not entirely sure the accelerator pump is working properly and you may be correct. I got the car warm and went on a 20 minute drive. Then took the air cleaner off and pulled on the throttle looking down the carb throat. I could hear the pump spray something in the carb, but didn’t see any fuel. It did start gently smoking out of the carb. Is it just squirting air into the carb? And how would it drive so well once I get it going if there’s no gas going in? Side note but I think my dipstick smells slightly of gas…more issues..lol

 

[rickwrench]

If you can hear the accelerator pump squirting and it fogs, it's likely working well enough.
Check -thoroughly- for vacuum leaks.
Make sure your advance is working.

Oil that smells gassy is usually just from a lot of short trips. 10-15 minutes or less. The oil isn't getting warmed up long enough to evaporate out any washed down fuel. Drive it around town for an hour, then smell it.

Rick(wrench)

 

[gserafini]

This is great to know, thank you. I double checked the pump again and it’s definitely working. Also disconnected the fuel line to the carb and cranked it to check gas in a bottle, I’ll add pics. Some sediment in there. It also filled this bottle really quickly. Like 3 cranks. It actually started without the line connected, gas still in the carb?
Also checked the advance. I’m not sure the lines are fully sealed but I sucked on the hose and it worked, I’ll add that video.
I’ve been checking for vacuum leaks but I don’t think I’m doing the best job. Any videos you know of showing a thorough check? Thank you all!

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

The debris you caught in the bottle is concerning; if any has already made it into the carb then it could be affecting (obstructing) your idle and low speed circuits.
Have you rechecked your point setting?

 

[rickwrench]

Yep, pump and advance are working.
Quick check for vacuum leaks is to (with the car idling) spray shots of good carb cleaner (Berryman B10, or something equally flammable) around the base of the carb and any vacuum connections and port plugs. If the engine surges a bit, you've got a leak. Since you recently swapped vacuum lines, also double-check that you're plugged into the right vacuum port on the carb.

Rick

 

[gserafini]

The debris you caught in the bottle is concerning; if any has already made it into the carb then it could be affecting (obstructing) your idle and low speed circuits.
Have you rechecked your point setting?

Know of any ways to help this problem, short of replacing the tank and lines? Also if i did do that, would i need to replace the fuel pump also? The pump is only a year old

 

[gserafini]

Yep, pump and advance are working.
Quick check for vacuum leaks is to (with the car idling) spray shots of good carb cleaner (Berryman B10, or something equally flammable) around the base of the carb and any vacuum connections and port plugs. If the engine surges a bit, you've got a leak. Since you recently swapped vacuum lines, also double-check that you're plugged into the right vacuum port on the carb.

Rick

Got it thanks, i did try that once but didnt hear much. Maybe i need to do it again. I'm fairly certain there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere

 

[gserafini]

Another note on vacuum leak - see photo below - the manifold vacuum port is loose. That adapter doesn't snug in all the way. Or, if i do really tighten it down and it snugs in, then the angle points down and i cannot run the trans-vacuum line to the modulator. Plus that makes it have to run past the headers. Fix for this?
Also this is a photo from before i ran the vacuum advance line. Please ignore that open port with the green check, it is now connected

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

Know of any ways to help this problem, short of replacing the tank and lines? Also if i did do that, would i need to replace the fuel pump also? The pump is only a year old

I see from the added pics you have a filter on the carb, hopefully it is doing what's needed. If you have room, I would add a plastic, transparent inline filter before the pump. It gives a visual of what you are catching and keeps debris from hanging in the pump.

 

[gserafini]

I see from the added pics you have a filter on the carb, hopefully it is doing what's needed. If you have room, I would add a plastic, transparent inline filter before the pump. It gives a visual of what you are catching and keeps debris from hanging in the pump.

Ah the clear is a good idea. I do have an in-line filter there before the pump but it is solid silver. And clearly not catching everything

 

[78_200_C4]

"After really driving it and then getting to a stop, this issue doesn't happen. It's like the car wants to be driving for a few before its happy. If not, the gas pedal acts like a kill switch. Any idea whats happening here?"

The choke is opening too soon or is already open.
When the log manifold gets hot the fuel vaporizes and the engine idles great with no choke.

 

[mustang6]

Check/clean/replace your PCV valve (in the valve cover) too. If stuck or even crusted inside with crud, it won’t seal and will effectively create a massive vacuum leak right at the base of your carb.

 

[gserafini]

Check/clean/replace your PCV valve (in the valve cover) too. If stuck or even crusted inside with crud, it won’t seal and will effectively create a massive vacuum leak right at the base of your carb.

Yes i did replace the valve and grommet itself on the valve cover, but i didn't replace the line. I sprayed carb cleaner at the carb base area and didn't notice any surging. I went on a drive yesterday and the car ran great, better than it has in a while. I then parked it for about an hour. Went to start it again and it started but pretty rough idle. I hit the gas and it died again. And then the key wouldn't turn over the car. Same gremlins and almost always after driving it. I jumped the solenoid to get it started to try and drive home, but it kept stalling when i would try to drive. I also noticed when warming the car up, good amount of water comes out the exhaust tips. It doesn't really smell like anything so it must be water

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

Several things need to be revisited on here to eliminate any contribution to your problem.
1. Look at the wiring at your ignition switch, see if it has become darkened or even hardened close to where it connects; this would be indicative of poor contact and the switch may be having internal problems. You can also touch the switch with your hand and see if it is getting hot, a little warm is typical and it will get that way especially when running the fan motor. If it gets too hot to comfortably touch it may just be the problem.
2. The starter solenoid allows direct battery voltage to the coil when cranking the engine, this happens at the small I terminal. These also on rare occasions have been known to take away voltage when running, drawing power from the coil. Know that the coil is powered through a resister wire powered from your ignition. Use a voltmeter at your coil positive to see what power it is actually getting. 9-10 volts I believe is what's required.
3. The condenser can also drive you nuts. In looking at your pic the condenser flag terminal got rotated when tightened. I like those to be nice and vertical, so the condenser wire does not come into contact with the internals during the distributor's advance.
4. Make sure you have a good ground strap from your engine to the firewall. Make sure your main battery ground is good at the block.
5. Check your charge voltage when at an idle and 1500. You may need to do some voltage drop checks if the above checks out for you.

 

[gserafini]

Several things need to be revisited on here to eliminate any contribution to your problem.
1. Look at the wiring at your ignition switch, see if it has become darkened or even hardened close to where it connects; this would be indicative of poor contact and the switch may be having internal problems. You can also touch the switch with your hand and see if it is getting hot, a little warm is typical and it will get that way especially when running the fan motor. If it gets too hot to comfortably touch it may just be the problem.
2. The starter solenoid allows direct battery voltage to the coil when cranking the engine, this happens at the small I terminal. These also on rare occasions have been known to take away voltage when running, drawing power from the coil. Know that the coil is powered through a resister wire powered from your ignition. Use a voltmeter at your coil positive to see what power it is actually getting. 9-10 volts I believe is what's required.
3. The condenser can also drive you nuts. In looking at your pic the condenser flag terminal got rotated when tightened. I like those to be nice and vertical, so the condenser wire does not come into contact with the internals during the distributor's advance.
4. Make sure you have a good ground strap from your engine to the firewall. Make sure your main battery ground is good at the block.
5. Check your charge voltage when at an idle and 1500. You may need to do some voltage drop checks if the above checks out for you.

Thank you for this checklist, this helps a lot for me to go through and cover my bases. For the coil test, do I check voltage while running with everything plugged in?

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

Yes

 

[rickwrench]

Just remember not to shotgun the diagnosis process.
Solve/check each subsystem -completely- before moving on to the next.

Fuel.
Choke.
Vacuum.
System electrical.
Ignition electrical.

Rick(wrench)