Tmacdagreat
New member
Ok thanks , what are you referring to when you say system ?
All Small Six 1967 Mustang Inline 6 keeps cuts off and stalls out at times when accelerating
- Thread starter Tmacdagreat
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Hi, in the picture of the carb, I don't see how the choke thermostat is hooked up to a choke stove pipe. The choke should close when the engine is cold, although now since the weather is hot, the choke may not close all the way, but just as important, the choke must stay fully open, and be held open by spring pressure, when the engine is warm. Right now, as a stop gap, you can adjust the choke thermostat to hold the choke open. By the way, the carb looks new. Did you get this carb and install it?
Frank is asking about the ignition system. Do you know if it is original, modified, or swapped out?
Good luck
Frank is asking about the ignition system. Do you know if it is original, modified, or swapped out?
Good luck
Tmacdagreat
New member
Tmacdagreat
New member
No I didn’t install the carburetor I recently purchased as is , it runs great except for this minor problem, I havent done anything to it besides drive it , I also dont have to much history on the car besides what the seller told me which was , suspension upgrades , conversion kits and periodic maintenance. What type of carburetor is this ? I checked google and it looks like the auto lite 1100. To answer frank I wouldn’t know if it’s original modified or swapped out, is there a way to determine that?
Tmacdagreat
New member
Also can you reference a video on adjusting the choke ? Thanks
frozenrabbit
Well-known member
Choke should be closed when engine is cool. There should be a heat riser tube from the exhaust manifold between 3 and 4, that connects to the choke spring housing where that vacuum cap is, unless you're running an electric choke.
That looks like a reproduction carb, mixed reviews from people's first hand experience with them.
Accelerator pumps could be out of adjustment. There is a tang you bend on the driver's side, and an adjustment bolt on the passenger side.
That looks like a reproduction carb, mixed reviews from people's first hand experience with them.
Accelerator pumps could be out of adjustment. There is a tang you bend on the driver's side, and an adjustment bolt on the passenger side.
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TrickSix
Well-known member
An easily available factory shop manual covers all subjects...
The color of the carb indicates a newer overseas knock-off replacement, not original or a Ford product. Not always a problem, so we'll leave it at that.
There is a way to adjust the accelerator squirt, it is addressed in post #27, above, last line. Since the shot of gas is weak, you may have to do some carb repairs.
Yes when the engine is warm the top valve stays open. We can adjust that later, first we need to determine if your ignition is weak. Please post a picture of the distributor. Did the previous owner say anything about making changes to the ignition? Like adding a Pertronix system?
sorry, stopped reading at post #5 and write to say
ign tunes all ways come 1st (I am recommending to
do so as to eliminate from decision tree) B4 fuel tunes.
ninjanate28
New member
The butter fly will open slowly when car warms up cause it is the choke. butter fly will be 90% closed when cold
TrickSix
Well-known member
Maybe a leak in your distributor vacuum line has nothing to do with your problem. But it still would not be a good thing to have, especially with the small signals from the SCV. The connection to your carb looks kind of funny to me. I've seen 1100s with pipe thread and some with flare threads at that vacuum port. They are similar in size, and you can kind of force one in where the other should go. The brass fitting there in the side of your carb doesn't look like it's screwed in very far. When installed, did it screw in easily at first using just your fingers and then suddenly tighten up? Or did it screw in easily for just a bit and then gradually tighten? Or did it start hard and get even tighter right away? Those three conditions would possibly indicate flare threads, pipe threads, or mis-matched threads.
DON
Famous Member
Reading through this thread again, I would guess you need to focus on carb and distributor.
Accelerator pump only affects fuel mixture at the very first application of throttle, not putting in gear. It pumps only when throttle is being moved in the accelerate direction, not on de-celeration.
Vacuum leak will affect idle quality. ( no throttle movement)
Sounds like your issue is more of a transition problem, check operation of distributor ( we still need a photo ). If you have access to a timing light, make sure advance is advancing when engine is revved. If no timing light, we need a photo of distributor to proceed.
Have any tune up services been done? Maybe a photo of a plug would help?
Accelerator pump only affects fuel mixture at the very first application of throttle, not putting in gear. It pumps only when throttle is being moved in the accelerate direction, not on de-celeration.
Vacuum leak will affect idle quality. ( no throttle movement)
Sounds like your issue is more of a transition problem, check operation of distributor ( we still need a photo ). If you have access to a timing light, make sure advance is advancing when engine is revved. If no timing light, we need a photo of distributor to proceed.
Have any tune up services been done? Maybe a photo of a plug would help?
(#36 quoted here)
post #31 ^
THEN go onto fuel (but after all these quick/easy checks we’ve left U)
U MUST move thru a system (multi-parts) SYSTEMICALLY to Dx a misfunction.
Often what seems “fuel issues” is electronic. If a feedback system is on ur car I bet it
is as #35 sez the LOM/SCV dynamic. PLEZ read Tech Archive at above blue horrizontal line -
that 3/4 ‘page’ SCV/LOM to understand.
post #31 ^
THEN go onto fuel (but after all these quick/easy checks we’ve left U)
U MUST move thru a system (multi-parts) SYSTEMICALLY to Dx a misfunction.
Often what seems “fuel issues” is electronic. If a feedback system is on ur car I bet it
is as #35 sez the LOM/SCV dynamic. PLEZ read Tech Archive at above blue horrizontal line -
that 3/4 ‘page’ SCV/LOM to understand.
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yes, closed, horrizontal, is choking in the throat
DON
Famous Member
I also am wondering about your choke, to be clear, it should be closed when cold. As the engine heats up, it will gradually open, all by itself. Check it when engine is stone cold. Cycle the throttle linkage one time ( from throttle closed to wide open throttle and back to closed ). After this is should be closed. If it is open at this time, this could be causing your problem. BUT when car is at operating temperature, your problem will disappear.
If the choke is not working properly, let us know, fairly easy to fix. It your car runs good when at operating temp, either live with the cold operation, let it idle for 10-15 min before hitting the road, or fix the choke.
Sometimes solving a problem you have to eliminate some of the basic things. That’s is why there were so many posts about maintenance/ tune up things to do. You have to make sure all parts are working correctly and that some have not been adjusted to compensate for the one is isn’t working. When diagnosing remember the basics, you engine needs air/fuel, spark, and compression. They all need to work together. Figuring out what part is not functioning properly can be the tricky part
