holley choke question

[yodabiri]

I am going to put a holley 2bbl (proabaly 2300, 350cfm) on my six using the adapter from clifford. Currently i have an automatic choke (the heat tube type) on my 1100 autolite and i was wondering if i should just get an electric choke holley or a manual choke holley. I am not sure which one would be better and which one would be easier to adapt. I just want to know people's opinion on this issue
thanks in advance!

 

[80Stang]

Well, for an automatic choke you'll need to get switched +12V to the carb so it is minor wiring job, for a manual choke you'll need to get the cheap cable and install it.

There must be two schools here for chokes. I'm running the automatic in my 2300, but wouldn't mind having a manual choke. Once set up correctly the automatic is "maintenance free" and real lazy man's stuff.

You can always convert between the choices afterwards, so feel free to start with what you like best right now.

 

[wsa111]

I use the electric choke.

All you have to do is install the choke & run 1 wire from the ignition source rather than to hook up a choke cable. William

 

[Redfalken]

I'm putting on a Weber 32/36 DGEV and read somewhere the electric choke was hooked up to the alternator for it's power (the stator terminal I think???) in a stock application.

Don't know if it's true but it seems easier to wire since it's closer to the carb and you don't have to run wire through the firewall and get under the dash to tie into the ignition switch. Also, there's no way the choke coil would be energized unless the motor is actually running. You could accidently leave your key in the run position without the engine on and the choke would get warm and open up.

Does this seem like a good way to install the electric choke?

 

[wsa111]

Kenny, check the voltage at the stator terminal. I believe it is only 9 volts which will cause the electric choke to be very slow in opening & not recommended.

Check the voltage before persuing this connection.

Most electric chokes work at battery or alternator output voltage. William

 

[nitrousnick]

Im with redfalken -I think the wire is (white)

 

[Redfalken]

I'll check that out. Thanks for the tip William. I thought that sounded to easy and convienient to be true!

 

[yodabiri]

And if i switch from my autolite to the holley, i would also need to switch distributors (i have a 65 mustang) to a dizzy or could i just use a petronix?

 

[65coupei6]

Wire the electric choke to the "I" terminal of the starter solinoid.

 

[JackFish]

I'm putting on a Weber 32/36 DGEV and read somewhere the electric choke was hooked up to the alternator for it's power (the stator terminal I think???) in a stock application.

Don't know if it's true but it seems easier to wire since it's closer to the carb and you don't have to run wire through the firewall and get under the dash to tie into the ignition switch. Also, there's no way the choke coil would be energized unless the motor is actually running. You could accidently leave your key in the run position without the engine on and the choke would get warm and open up.

Does this seem like a good way to install the electric choke?

Yes, the Fairmonts are all hooked up to the alternator.
The Center tap is the the one, might have a black identification ring, according to the 78 shop manual.
Apparently they function above 60*F, the switch closes and suppose to cause the choke to open with 1 to 1 1/2 minutes.
It's purpose is to aid faster choke release in warm conditions.

 

[wsa111]

Check the voltage at the stator terminal then hook it up any way you like,but remember if the voltage is 9 volts the choke will open very slowly.

If I remember right the older ford truck used to hook their electric choke to the stator terminal, but the heating coil in the choke housing was designed for 9 volts. I maybe wrong, but check your voltage first. William