Home made 200 timing cover

[drag-200stang]

Had to make a new timing chain cover because of the new bigger and larger SFI damper. I just couldn't get it to fit with the old timing chain cover. Hit the the timing pointer. Because of the 1/4" thick front motor plate, I was able to modify the old one by milling the front down, but the new damper had a shorter snout on it and the old cover could not be modified enough to work. Old cover needed 3 different bolt lengths. New one - one bolt length will do all and gives a nice strong flat spot for the crank trigger sensor. If nothing else it will be a lot easier to clean. Believe it or not I was able to saw the front of a scrap block off using a cheap, 4 1/2" band saw and use that as a drill through guide.

 

[DON]

Sweet! looks nice. Maybe a new aftermarket product in the works

 

[drag-200stang]

Thanks' Don, Very time consuming to do on a manual no readout mill, but it had to be done.

 

[67Straightsix]

that looks great. Do you mind showing the back side?

 

[drag-200stang]

Thanks' 67, I will see what I can do.

 

[drag-200stang]

Here you go, Now on to body work ha ha.

 

[67Straightsix]

very nice. any estimate on when it will be running? I've Been patiently waiting.

 

[drag-200stang]

Thanks' again, I no longer want to give any estimates, I have been failing to meet, ha ha. It is about the journey right. I am just happy that I can still do these things.
It is a little heavier than the stock cover but it will give me superior clamping force for the front motor plate.

 

[Invectivus]

Have you thought about scanning that, in the event you wanted to develop it and or modify it later?

 

[drag-200stang]

Have you thought about scanning that, in the event you wanted to develop it and or modify it later?

No, I have not . I have no way to scan it. I have only old fashion cheap wore out manual stuff, no read out and just work at it to get the desired results.

 

[AllenC]

Thanks' Don, Very time consuming to do on a manual no readout mill, but it had to be done.

Did you use (not mentioned) a rotary table for the arcs?

 

[alwill923]

very nice! I sure would like to know how you got the curves with a manual mill.

 

[DON]

It looks stout too! Not a cheap, flimsy piece!

There has to be someone on here that has access to a CNC machine or at least be able to scan it. I would like to get my hands on a copy of the scan!

 

[drag-200stang]

Did you use (not mentioned) a rotary table for the arcs?

Yes I have a Vertex brand rotary table that I used for the arcs. It is a great addition to the mill.

 

[drag-200stang]

very nice! I sure would like to know how you got the curves with a manual mill.

Thanks', Rotary table for the non complete circles and a boring tool for the complete circles.

 

[Invectivus]

It looks like you have less meat for oil pan mating, are you trimming your pan too? And will you move your bolt holes inward? Looks like stock placement would have thin walls to the front. That or maybe thinner bolts?

 

[drag-200stang]

This all started because of the SFI custom Fisher Dynamics damper is larger and heavier. Did not want the damper hanging way out so it was designed not hang way out. The 1/4'' thick motor mount plate that holds the engine and now strut towers is sandwiched between the cover and the block. That pushes the cover out 1/4'' past the front of the pan and making the damper to close to the stock cover. Yes the front of the pan will need to be modded some and a couple of small machine screws will be needed to hold the pan tight till the sensor safe RTV sets, after it sets the bolts are probably not needed and yes the pan is a pain to remove and thin razor blades are your friend.

 

[Invectivus]

That is just all kinds of neat. Looking forward to seeing it all dressed up.

 

[drag-200stang]

Incase you missed this, this is the damper with homemade 36-1 trigger wheel I made. The steel reluctor is mounted like a flywheel ring gear with 9 bolts it keep it from moving on the aluminum hub. I went to the extra work because I had scrap piece of 1/4'' ground steel left over from the 6 to V8 bellhousing adapter plate. I cut a hole the same size as the crank flange to locate it for layout, making the scrap piece look like a fat ring gear leaving no way to bolt it directly to the damper. It is lighter than a HLY wheel even the ones with lightened cut outs.