Hooking up an electric choke carb

TheDude

Well-known member
1968 200ci 6cyl engine. Port divider - FSPP dual out header - dual exhaust

Hi,

I recently recieved a 2bbl H/W carb with an electric choke. From reading about 2bbl carb upgrades, I understand that I need to hook up the elec. choke to a +12v switched source. Where is the best place to hook it up and where do I find the correct wire needed for the hookup?

Thank you :D

Justin
 
There are two places you can use.

First, is the stator wire on on the back of your alternator. Second is the ignition side of the stater solinoid. If you use the starter solinoid I will also wire in a relay. The neg just grounds to the carb.
 
Why not use the ignition wire to the coil? It's easy to get to and splice into. Just make sure you don't have a ballast resistor or resistor wire. If you do, you'll need another source.

Slade
 
Thanks for the responses. We are supposed to get snow tonight into tomorrow morning so I think I will try to get everything bolted on today and see what to do about the wire.

Thanks,

Justin
 
I decided to wait until the weather gets warmer to install the carb. If I cannot get the Mustang started, I don't want it sitting for weeks without starting up. I have a few more questions about hooking the wire to the carb:

How do I connect the wire the the metal tab on the electric choke? Can I solder it? Slade, having no electrical experience, I must ask this: How do I splice the wire, and then connect it to the metal tab?
 
Dude;
Here's a couple of notes about the electric carbs:
1. The connector is a .187" tab. There are crimp-on connectors available from hardware stores that match this size: you can get a crimper tool for about $5 to attach it to the wire. However, a better method is to go to a junkyard and get the Ford connector: it's a perfect fit and usually has the wire attached: the whole rig might cost $1 or so. Any Ford electric carb connector will do.
2. Make sure of the carb's choke voltage. There are 7 volt and 12 volt chokes out there. If you use the 12 volt type, connect it to the IGN circuit in the fusebox. Use a ScotchLok wire splice (they're blue, 2-wire splicers available at Checker Auto) to connect into the circuit. If you have the 7 volt type, it must connect to a terminal on the back of the alternator, usually a terminal that is by itself in the back of the alternator, surrounded by a BLACK plastic insulator. This is an AC voltage tap, expressly put there for a choke circuit.

Running a 7 volt choke on a 12 volt circuit will eventually cause the choke heater to burn out. If you run a 12 volt choke on the 7 volt circuit, it will open more slowly than it should, which will waste gas and maybe cause fouled sparkplugs.
 
Mark pretty much summed it up. YOu should get a good wire splcing kit and crimping tool from a local auto store. You'll see in there lots of different splice types and you'll find some that will work for exactly what you need. It'll be pretty obvious.

Slade
 
MarkP":3umf6maa said:
........ Use a ScotchLok wire splice (they're blue, 2-wire splicers available at Checker Auto)

If you plan on keeping this vehicle for very long, do yourself a favor and get a soldering iron and learn how to use it. Those little crimp-on connectors are, IMHO, a communist plot to keep our cars from running :twisted: Having worked on older cars, trucks, and farm equipment far too much in my mis-spent life, I have found more corrosion induced electrical problems from those miserable contraptions than I care to think about. Those insulated "solderless" crimp on connectors are fine as long as you strip the insulation off, crimp the connection, solder it properly, and use heat shrink tubing (NOT black tape) to cover the joint. Yes, it takes longer, but unless you live in a very dry environment, it is worth the effort. This is VERY important on trailer wiring, they seem to be exposed to far more moisture than engine compartment electricals. JMHO.
Joe
 
Thanks again for the responses. I have plenty of time to plan this out and make sure I do it right the first time. There is a salvage yard 5 minutes from my house. I will give them a call and get a Ford connector.

Thanks :D
 
Lazy JW":1hvptaxw said:
If you plan on keeping this vehicle for very long, do yourself a favor and get a soldering iron and learn how to use it. Those little crimp-on connectors are, IMHO, a communist plot to keep our cars from running.
Amen. :nod:
 
MarkP":1mzrlecp said:
...Make sure of the carb's choke voltage. There are 7 volt and 12 volt chokes out there....
OK, so how do you tell which voltage your carb choke is? I've got one for a Weber, so I'm assuming it's 12 volts, but how would somebody tell on a Ford one?
 
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