How to get a spigot bearing out?????

[Anonymous]

The motor in the Transit stuffed up the other day, and on removing the head it would seem that when the air cleaner popped off a few seconds before it went funny, it swallowed a bolt into #6, as there are threads printed in the piston and head, and the end of the spark plug is mashed.

As a temporary measure we have got a pre crossflow 250 from an auto, and I have got the flywheel etc all ready, but I need to get the spigot bearing out of the old motor, as I am an hour drive from a new one and I need the motor in to get there! I have tried filling it with grease and tapping a rod in the centre, but I can't find anything with a tight enough fit, not even the gerabox input shaft.
I have tried levering it but it won't budge and i don't want to break it.

I cam ein from the garage after midnight, thouroughly frustrated and I think I meed a bit of help. Any suggestions?

At least I now have the use of some lifting tackle for a while so I can finish swapping the XF motor after this one is out of the way. Then I can change the motor and gearbox in a Volvo 245......... A car enthusiast's work is never done, that;'s why we make home brew, to refuel for the next session!

 

[Anonymous]

I am assuming it is the pilot bearing you are working on, The trick to grease is to use very heavy grease and to pack it full then tap in a rod or even a wood dowel, the hydraulic pressure should free it up. The next alternative would be after the grease is clean try heat and see if it will free it up the last step would be to cut it from the inside out as a very last resort. Hope this helps some.
Glenn

 

[addo]

Are you sure it's in there? I remember one guy removing the "bearing" only to find it was already gone and he was slowly destroying thr crank flange...

 

[SONNY]

you will see a bearing,very easy to spot.like what was said before pack heaps of grease in there and hit a steel rod into the hole.you may have to repack it a few times after a few hits to get it moving,you can't compress grease thats why it pushes the bearing out.

 

[Anonymous]

Oh yes, the bearing is definately in there, I installed it myself about 18 months ago. Ended up getting a lift to town and bought a new one. The one in the blown motor is still in there and it can stay there!

Now I have a new problem, the motor I am fitting to the XF has a broken water pump bolt with about a 1/4" sticking out. That should be fun to fix. I was hoping to get it running tomorrow too

Oh well, if you can't put up with this sort of thing you buy a new Hyundai and throw it away after 5 years.

 

[SONNY]

mate forget the 5 years,my mother has a 01 hyundai accent and it was hit down the side and guess what,she can't buy parts know where.hyundai don't want to know here,the wreckers ain't got none.i told here 5 times not to buy the f*ckin lemon.the sl*t won't even start when its hot.warning to everyone don't be fooled buy the cheap paint there duds.with your water pump prob,its happened to me,get the water out of it and spray the guts of it with rp7 etc heaps of times then get a good strong pair of vise grips and it will come out,the cheap vice grips maynot do the job.oh make sure you do them up so tight that you think your gonna pop then you know there tight enough otherwise they may slip and its over.

 

[xctasy]

Water pump bolts are a victum of low grade iron used in all later Falcon engines. I've seen it happen a few times. Good thing is you can often impact drive them out. Never use eazi outs. Total waste of time.

The joy of new cars is the technical lockout (no details on parts, codes, on bard systems) and the fact that although they have to carry 10 years inventory of parts, they don't have to make them avaliable to the public at sensible prices or at sensible time frames. Toyota NZ is now practising the ultimate John Conomus scam...they want your old car for steel. Simple, take an old car off the road, give people no choice but to buy a car with a 5 year waranty, and when its 5 yearsa are up, make it too expensive to repair. We get upset if our Falcons cost 400 bucks for a new computer. Try 2000 notes for a 2002 VSS computer on a Tojo!

It's all a scam to buy new cars, and then pull the rug out from under us when we want to hot them up or play automakers. A Ford six will last 30 years if its rebuilt and looked after.

Oh carnut, I will be rebuilting Hyundai Stellas in 30 years time, because they are a Cortina underneath. As for the Lantra or whatever, yeah, no hope. Unlike the Falcon, a Lantra really is a throw-a-way car!

Enough of the conspiracy theories. Back to my Falcon.

I get a 3-on-the-tree Transmission from Gore tomorrow, and re-registration as a new vehicle sometime soon. At least we Kiwis don't have emission checks here, cause its got no gear on it at all!


Deano

 

[wagon]

Isn't it funny... Our esteemed legislators (and others, eg some greenies) talk about getting older cars off the road because they pollute, are not as safe, etc. They don't ask what the real cost is of building a new car and (frequently) transporting it by ship to its new home. THEN, when the thing is stuffed after the warranty is up the vehicle is (sort of) stripped for any useful parts and the rest is landfill..... Unless some poor sap buys it and drives what is now a 5 year old bomb, blowing smoke and possibly worse... I think it is BETTER to build better, sturdier cars (eg like old falcons) that have a chance of lasting a reasonable time - better to last 15 years and then be recycled (or done up $$$$). Anyway, this is one of my favourite hobby horses and debate on this subject can rage for a long time! Long live well built, REPAIRABLE and REBUILDABLE motor cars!

Phew.

Kendall.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, sapped the motor in the XF the other day, had to get the spigot out of that too to fit hte auto to it. Stuck like hell so I welded a bolt in the centre and leverred it out with a crowbar.

The water pump bolt ended upp having to be drilled and an insert fitted. Lucky I had the insert kit in that size.