HorsesNHogs":3rcpr4qg said:Joe,
First off THANKS, your pictures and detailed explaination encouraged me to make this swap, I completed the job this afternoon, and all was fine EXCEPT, the connection to the solinoid (sp). When I had the "white" wire connected to the "s" terminal the engine would not start, I came back here and did some research and found another post that said hook the white wire to the "I" terminal, I did and it worked. As for the red wire, I did not remove the Instrument cluster, but I did find a empty, female plug approx "4 inch" from the ignition, I tested it, it was a switchable 12v connection, what I don't know is what side of the ballast/resistor wire it is on, will that make a differnence in performance?
The engine starts with just a bump, and runs as well as expected with the crappy autolite 1100 I have, which is next to go,
again thanks, as for the white wire connection, not sure what to say but the "I" connection worked for me.
George
The "I" connection is the down stream end of the solenoid. During normal running, this terminal should have about 6-7 volts because it is wired to the coil terminal that also gets juice from the downstream end of the ballast resistor. (while the start posistion is not engaged and the solenoid is resting, the "I" terminal is isolated from the (+) side of the solenoid)
During start, the it gets full 12 volts from the solenoid.
The question is (and I don't know the answer) does the DuraSpark module retard the spark if it gets 6-7 volts on the white wire? If it does, you are compensating for it with your initial idle timing. You are not necessarily getting a retard during start in that scenario.
As for the "4 incher :roll: ": check the voltage at the red wire (at the connector by the module is an easy spot) with the key in run (not running). If you are getting about 12 volts, then you are not downstream of the ballast resister (it is about impossible to be downstream of the ballast resistor if you are 4" from the switch). If you are getting 12V, then you have a great source. (As an aside, you should see if this wire is "cold" during "ACC")
If you ARE less than 12V, and the module is working, then I doubt your performance is significantly degraded. I guess there is an argument that the higher the input voltage to the module, the higher the voltage to the low voltage side of the coil...the higher the low voltage sode...the higher the high voltage side.
I'm guessing that you are getting 12V to the module's red wire with your setup.
The issue I'd be interested in hearing about is, does your timing change when you temporarily disconnect the white wire from the "I" terminal? If you do or don't, please report. That will tell me if the duraspark module ignores the 6-7 volts on the white wire, only retarding when 12V or nearly 12V is sent on that wire. Or maybe the retard increases with the voltage level on the white wire.
As for the no start while on the "S" terminal...It may be that the full retard (and your near TDC initial advance setting) are combining to make the during start retard so excessive that your baby doesn't run. Again, set your timing with white wire disconntected...then try either the "S" or the "I" terminal as appropriate.
I have the white wire disconnected and she starts and runs beautifully.
) conected - to give me an idea how much retard it is and therefore whether it is worth me fiddling with.
