HP/torque

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If i put all this into an engine how much horsepower and torque should i get?







Details Name Unit Price Quantity Total Select
PAK-E-ARP ARP Fastener Package $255.00 $255.00
Engine Size: - 170/200ci - -
C77-200-MBM Clevite 77 Main Bearings (65-75 mid 200ci 7 mains) $83.00 $83.00
Bearing Size: - .030 - -
C77-200-RBA Clevite 77 Rod Bearings (200ci) $42.00 $42.00
Bore Size: - .030 - -
C77-200-CBS Clevite 77 Cam Bearings (170/200/250ci) $22.00 $22.00
COR-200-COM Corteco Complete Gasket Set $50.00 $50.00
JEP-200-FPF JE Forged Piston Set - Flat-top $650.00 $650.00
Bore Size: - .030 - -
Engine Size: - 170/200ci - -
FSP-200-CPR Chrome Moly Piston Rings $75.00 $75.00
Bore Size: - .030 - -
CSC-274-10-SHS CSC-274 (110*) Hydraulic Single Pattern Camshaft $110.00 $110.00
RAS-200-RTR RAS Roller-Tipped Rocker Assemblies (170/200/250ci) $415.00 $415.00
EHL-200-BBF Eaton FE-BBF Hydraulic Lifters (non-oiling) $52.00 $52.00
CSC-200-TOY Dual Springs $90.00 $180.00
JPP-200-DRC JP Performance Dual Roller Chain Set (200ci only) $95.00 $95.00
SIV-200-RSE SI Replacement Series Stainless Steel ('65-'76) $60.00 $60.00
CSC-200-TVS Teflon Valve Seals: 5/16" x .500 $15.00 $15.00
FSP-200-BAL High Performance Balancer (200ci only) $205.00 $205.00
Grand Total: $2,309.00 Delete
 
bergerfromage,

Not enough info for the experts (not me) to let you know. What kind of head will you use, and has it been ported/pollished? What carb will you use? What's the target compression ratio? What kind of exhaust?

Note about forged pistons: I have been told and have read several places that in these engines, unless you are planning on running either nitrus or some form of boost forged pistons won't really do much for you.

Kris
 
i'll run a stock head that's been ported and polished, holley 2300 direct mount, don't know what compression ratio but i do need to shave the head due to pitting, pacemaker header with 2 inch dual flowmaster 40 series

thanks, didn't know that about the pistons, that should save me alot of money
 
I think DB is close. I would expect to see about 95-100RWHP (which is 120 BHP like DB said). Most of those upgrades are good basics to all you to get more power at a later date with a solid foundation. Not knowing enough about the cam, that is the mod giving you the most improvement of your list.

If you want the most HP/$$ out of the 200, you're going to need to look at the Aussie/Argie, or the AL heads that John (Inliner) will be putting out soon. at$1500, they sound like a big outlay, but when you go from 70RHWP to 150 RWHP...

Slade
 
If you run 10.0:1 compression with a D8-E0 head with the big valves /port & polish & a 500 cfm Holley, expect to see around 175-180 HP with that engine build :wink:

I would also add the chrome moly pushrods 1978 Duraspark w/MSD 6A, ram air kit with K&N filter and a performance dual exhaust.

Keep in mind that you should run either 3.20 or 3.50 gears and a good converter too.

Later,

Doug
 
i already have the DS2 Dizzy with the MSD 6A ignition box, a T-5 tranny and stock 3.20 rear end gears. plan to upgrade to four wheel disc and either an 8 or 8.8 inch rear end with either 3.20 or 3.50 gears
 
The key to any kind of power is in the head. You have to port it well and get all the warts out of the valve pockets. Relieve the chambers to let them flow well. Work the exhaust ports so they can get the spent gasses out.

From tinkering with Engine Analyzer, I've learned that's the biggest reason most people get small gains from all the mods. The head is only designed to support enough airflow to make "maybe" 140 hp in stock form. A really big cam in a stock head only gives you a very marginal gain, and a poor driving engine.

If I had a choice between spending $150 on a cam or $150 on head work, I think i could get more power from head work.
 
If I had a choice between spending $150 on a cam or $150 on head work, I think i could get more power from head work.
Click to expand...
Tough one. $150 at retail doesn't get you much of anything. I'd favour the cam simply because it's easier to "just" do the head later. You need to pull the head for the cam, but not the cam for the head.

That said, a dual pattern cam of very modest lift would be my choice on a severely tight budget. Sure, if you're planning the driveline and performance thoroughly, and have the budget to push it through without huge delay, headwork is the go.

I s'pose it's like, if you want to make the grade as a rock guitarist - do you spend on a louder amp, or a better guitar? :?
 
Are you wanting to stay naturally aspirated?

I say this because you can esaily get another 80-100 RWHP by adding a turbocharger. You could keep everything relatively stock and the total cost would be cheaper than what you have already planned (not to mention a different cylinder head to go with those performance parts).

Just an idea.



-Chris
 
i wanted it to be more of a sleeper so when i go to a little get together in a parking lot and everyone starts laughing cause i have a six, i can take to the street and smoke anyone willing, nobody needs to know what i've done to the car, they only need to think that i have a stock six
 
I hear what your sayin bout makin people laugh then eat it...in my case, I want people to see what all Ive done, question it, then Ill show em what its got :twisted: 180hp is pretty good for these motors and will be a ton of fun with the T5. Go ahead and rebuild using the better performance parts and you can always add things later.
Matt
 
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