i need power BAD



hi im new to this. im only 17 with a 1970 ford falcon 4 dr. 200 inline six auto. manual brakes and steering (power nothing).

anyways i would like to get as much power out of it as i can but i would like to get man. disc brakes in the front for stopping power. if they made them or how to do it. i love man. brakes and dont wanna change. maybe bigger drums. i have like 500 dollars to spend on the engine and i can get a head ported and polished for free.

the cars all stock and i might put a glasspack and a k&n on it for a little more power. 115 hp and 190 torque isnt enough. i need to beat those damn honda civics.

i also wanna change it to 5 lug so i can get some nice rims for it. the paint is about 6 years old and nice.

What would be good for me to do. what do i need to do. im thinking of getting a header and running duels. what should i do.

what could i replace to make it lighter then it already is.

also my speedometer doesnt always like to work until it is warm.

i need more POWER

tell me everything i need to know. the parts and the prices
So you wanna give the ricers this impression?
Without being seen as a

$500 isn't a whole lot to play with if you spread it over the car. Spent only on one area - wheels/tyres, body or engine, it will help some.

Have a look at the "tech" section articles on beefing up the sixes. A conversion to full electronic ignition is first on almost everyone's lips. Search for past posts on similar topics to your interests.

While the ricers are reading
, you'll be learning "good" stuff. Go to it, man!

Cheers, Adam.
Others need to comment, and keep me honest so you can get a cost effective hop-up. The democratic process for car hop-ups will give you something to draw on!

Firstly, set your budget level to one which will allow you to complete what you hope for. Remember, the stats for bright young bucks sucessfully reworking an old car are against you, brother. 12 months ago my 23 year old protege dumped is 2V 250 powered Ford Cortina six off the motorway because he got disheartened. That car was a weapon with C4 auto, extractors, 225/50 X14's and 3.7:1 gears which made it scream like a banshee!

Secondly, In Australia and New Zealand, 1970 Falcons are da bomb. They kick butt with their square syling. Aussie Falcon GT's got 4V HO 351 Cleveland V8's which did 14.4 second quarters and 140 mph top speeds, and 1970 Mach 1-style "Shakers" sticking outa the hood. Bitchin'. Blueprinted engines did 350 bhp net on dynos. They are a true classic that most Ford freaks lust after. Sorta like what a 271HP 65 Mustang is today.

With a 200 six, however, your not gonna set the world on fire! When your young, you look at starting with what you've got, and then adding to it to get the performance you'd like. In practice, this may be a bad idea. There is not a cubic inch substitute, unless you use nitrous, turbos, multiple Webers or a 4/71 blower. You need a solid base that won't let you down. I'd suggest a few things that I'd do if I was in the States and 17. I'll work on the basis that you want to use the stock 200 base.

My recipe for success with a 200 is this:

1. Do a static leak down test. If it fails the 80% compression retention, find a newer 200 from a later Fairmont. Otherwise, your going to have to rebuild your engine...not cheap, but it'll let you down after you hit it with what I propose if the engines not primo. I'll bet you'll need a rebuild. If you are worried about the cost, then you'll never get the performance you need. 200cubes won't cut it unless it pulls revs!

For the rebuild, go for stock 200 rods with Chevy big block ARP or similar rod bolts. Regrind the crank 10/10 thou, and fit a heavy duty harmonic balancer (front pulley). Fit a 30 thou over flat-top, non-forged piston which was originaly bound for a 250 is the best option. It needs to cope with a piston speed, and compression much higher than the original did. In Oz, Duralite pistons are used. Fit rings to race spec, with clearances at the upper end of what the ring maker recomends. Block can be decked, but don't go for less than a 25 thou below deck piston space. This little rager will like to rev. Find a good quality true-roller cloyes style timing gear set. Very expensive, but very good. Find an uprated new oil pump. Sump needs to be enlarged to carry an extra liter of sump capacity, by welding in pro-stock style ears in the flanks. A "windage" tray should be bent up to clear the free running envelope that the crank spins in by 60 thou. Over fill the sump an additional half a liter.

2. Rip off the head, and put a Holley 2300 350 cfm carb from an after market shop or swap meet on it. Use an adaptor. Make sure the carby linkage has the correct linkage, which allows any auto kickdown rod to work the way Ford intended. If you can offord it, and it can be done with a flow bench, have the head gas flowed. Integral intake ports limit the power, but unless someone from Agentina or Aussie sends you a 2V head, don't worry about it. Enlarge the valves to 1.75 inlet and whatever exhast valves you fancy. The replacement valves must be single grove, and locked in place if multi grove. Cutting the keepers to ensure they don't but up is important. Since your running unleaded, a post 1974 head is best, as they have induction hardened valve seats. Ask the head shop to rebuild the head to suit a 450 lift cam with 280 degrees duration...no more. Go for expensive bronze valve inserts, or K-line the stock ones. The shop has to allow for the right seals and clearances. Valve gear should be upgraded to either new old stock (dime pincher) or some other after market items. The rtainers and sled fulcrums need to be better quality than stock. Don't go for roller rockers unless you're rich! Find a hydraulic cam which has around 215 degrees or less duration at 50 thou valve lift, and around 280 dgrees duration at std running clearance. Lift should be around 450 thou. Spring bind cannot occur at full lift...60 thou clearance should exist between each coil at maxixmum lift. Use any name brand hydraulic lifters.

Plane the head for a 10:1 or greater compression ratio. Theres a web site link for calculating this. Go for the most compression you can get. Forget what any body says.

3. Fit two 15 thou brass jets in to the air horn of the Holley carb. This is to supply my trademark Anti Detonation Injection system ex David Vizard practice. Use an Edlebrock or Spearco or even a stock washer bottle for carrying the fluid, which is a 49%/49% mix of methanol and water. Add 2% little methyl ethal ketone or acetone. The vessal needs to be scavanged by a 45 psi electric motor, which is set up for action at wide open throttle by a nitrous oxide style leaf switch. This allows you to use any pump grade gas, without holeing the pistons or detonating. This system MUST WORK ANY TIME ITS CALLED FOR. It is the most critical part of the modification to this vehicle. Check the condition of the plastic on a regular basis, or have a sheet metal worker make one out of stainless steel.

4. Use a quality electronic ignition system which fits your block. Set the advance on a chassis dyno at a level below where detonation sets in with the ADI system operating. Part throttle response should be excellent.

5. Headers are needed which link to a big single pipe of 2.25-2.375 inch diameter.

6. Go for a recalibrated, rebuilt C4 auto trans with a 2800 rpm stall ratio. On the street, a good auto will be quick on the uptake when ricres loose a gear. Grab a Granada diff and find a ratio of around 3.73:1 Run a set of 245/50 by 15 tires on 15 X 7 Cragar SST's for the front, 265/50 and 15 X 8 or similar at the back. Fit V8 1968 to 1974 Fairlane/Torino/Mustang discs if you can get them. The front ends were similar, and quite a lot interchanges.

This set up should give the following in a 3000 pound Falcon:-

Horsepower, net, of over 185 at 5700 rpm or so. Torque of 175 ft-lbs at about 4000 rpm. Red line about 6300 rpm

Mph per 1000 rpm of 19.8 ; Top speed with 0.48 drag co-efficient and 2.15 square meter frontal area, gives a 118 mph at 6000 rpm. Gearing is set up to cruise the pike at above the stall speed at 55 mph. Maximum trap speed for the 16 second quarters are reached in second gear at the red line...about 6300 rpm or so.

That's it. No 2V head, no 250. This is all you can expect. A good Honda Integra R or something will drag it off, but it'll sure keep them honest
There are a lot of things to give your car more power.

It really comes down to personal taste and budget.

I echo what xecute said...check your engine. No point in trying to build up an engine if it is on the way out.

The 2V carb upgrade is easy, fairly cheap, and will result in a noticable increase in power. You will still be limited due to the head design.

I'll comment on the route I'm going:
Offy 3-1V intake adapter
Comp Cam 260H cam
Double Roller Timing Set

Those are the basic performance adders that I am working on this winter.

Also...definitely upgrade the ignition to electronic (Duraspark II or Pertronix). That will also change the engine's performance.

Welcome to the post.

I would think the first and simplest improvement you could make on your budget would be the fuel and spark. This being said, remember that the early Ford one-barrel and distributor are a matched set. If you replace one you need to replace the other (special vacuum advance).

My personal favorite is the progressive Weber 32/36 DFV (primary on the left) just because the modification to the throttle rod is an easy fix. Similar carbs would be the Holley 5200 and Weber 32/36 DGV (primary on the right and more common than the DFV). There are several other types of carbs that work well and some are covered in the tech pages.

With the addition of good air/fuel mix and good spark with the Dizzy II you will be off and running before the rebuild even if the rebuild is needed later.

Good luck and keep us posted, Ric.
Howdy 70Falcon:

Realistically, you couldn't have chosen a worse combo for performance. the '70 Falcon 4 door sedan is about as heavy a vehicle as the 200 every came in. If you're serious, do everything you can to reduce the weight of this vehicle.

That said, go to the post "Exhaust manifold VS Headers" and read the suggestion I gave to CustoMustang.

Nest, get yourself a shop manual to help you understand what you have, and to help you with mods.

You '70 200 will already have the best point type distributor, with both centrifugal and vacuum advance built in, but you could improve it by adding a Petronix Ignitor and coil, or you could upgrade to the DSII system.

After ignition, intake and exhaust, the head is the next area. This is a bit more pricy, so plan and save. Then it's changing to a lower gear ratio and tranny improvements.

Check out our website and our Falcon Performance Handbook. Just click on the highlighted address below my signature.

Adios, David
His car might not be the heaviest - it depends on whether it's a true '70 or a '70 1/2. The '70 models were just like the '68 and '69s. Middle of '70 production year is when they switched to the larger body style.

Which one do you have?

a '70:

or a '70 1/2:
i have a 70

i wanna lose as much wait as i can. my car only has 93,000 original miles. it is strong right now and i read that a 300 inline 6 has a bigger carb and was wondering if it would be good to get until i can find and buy a 250 2v head. my friend has roller rockers that i can get cheap. my shop i pretty much live at will cut me a deal on a port and polish. i was thinking a header and duels would be nice to.

what would be good to cut some weight from it
Did Santa get you what you needed, brother?

I've been thinking a good deal about it over the festive season.

If the old beast is in cherry condition, perhaps you'd like to look at a set of progressive modifcations that will ensure you can end up with something special.

Only 15 700 were made in 1970 (not including the base model 1970 1/2 Torino). 2262 were Futuras, 1005 were wagons, some came out with a four barrel 220 hp 302 Windsor V8 in 1969. My mate had a 1968 US Station wagon. These days, it is quite a car, especially when compared to the Australian Falcons, which were quite different from 1968 on.

My suggestion is a provisional swap to a 250 cid, if performance is your thing. There are plenty around. Compared to a later Granada, your Falcon is light. Our base model Aussie ones were 2700 pounds, yours, with federal safety equipment, is still may be 2900 pounds or less.

If you get the extra 25% of capacity, and it wont hurt you annual inspection, then theres bulk torque and good power. The tricks you'll learn from these guys will only add to it. A 2V or Offy tri-power set up would rock. Hope you've seen the Fox body triple that Jack was involved with. You NEED to see the engine! I drive a 3160 pound 250 powered 1984 Aussie Falcon, and even with a Holley 500, all power options and propane power, it shuts down a lot or ricers!

Go get some other advice, don't just believe me!
Welcome to the site, 70 falcon! :D The most important thing to do is what you've already done: You found this site! :D

Do you have tools and a place to work? How much experience do you have so far? Glad to see you taking an interest in your ride, to you have any pictures of her? You've joined a great group here. ;)

Seriously, check the basic condition of your engine first, fix anything you can. Once you have a solid platform to build from, my personal preference on starting performance mods is to start at the exhaust. Get a good header and new exhaust system with a free flowing muffler. The guys here can make good recommendations.

Good Luck!!