Ideas of souping up ford fairmont XF running X-flow 250 EFI

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hey
Guys i just got my new car the other day and it a stock car beside the lowered springs. The motor is a 250 crossflow Efi.

Id like idea on what to put on
stuff like

cam
diff
efi throttle body
sport injectors
piston heads
crank shaft
gearbox
clutch
flywheel
tailshaft
con rods
spark plugs
spark leads
distrubitor cap
bearings
rebuild top and bottem end kits
new type of head


also the motor in an unleaded motor and currenty auto 4 now lol

all i want to know is brands and idea on gear thx
 
Just open up your wallet and watch the dollars disappear! I would leave the motor standard but freshen it up..... fit a good exhaust (extractors, etc.) and leave the rest alone. Been there, done that ;(
 
Ford thunder, theres heaps of info on here.....heaps.
Building a i6 is easy just need an engine stand, good socket set and breaker bar,torque wrench,ring compressors etc
The get the cash up for the goodies you mentioned youll have to sell the car its going into or take your time learning from this site and getting into the shed and buying the right parts.
Im not the best guy to mention pros and cons and brands youll need for a good rebuild but i swear all the info you need is right here :D Steve
 
LOL i want some grunt so mates can't keep up and see me after 30 seconds lol there running 202 and 186 commadors and im the only one running a ford and i want to show them how much grunt in a lightly worked ford ive got a performance shop giving me on prices that seem OK to me but you guys might have a different opinion in the end i will spend about 1500 on the motor unless i can find better gear that cost more

stage 2 cam for $149.00
Lifters for $59.00
standard Roll master timing kit for $109.00
multi key way Roll master for $139.00
full gasket set for $99.00
mellings oil pump for $125.00
harmonic balancer for $70.00
exchange reco injecters for $360.00

There some prices
im getting a T5 gear box for $200 out of paper and going to buy a rebuild kit for the gear box

ill just have to find 9" diff and stronger tail shaft
 
i was lucky enuf to get 2 rebuilt HM Gem motors and i brought a turbo setup that im gunna throw on, boost it up and if i blow it, well, i got the spare rebuilt one to do the same:)
 
Yer that cool but id rather to place a supercharger on me car at the end i love Superchargers just every car now got turbo and there starting to become a esentual on ya car. Id rather walk up to my mates and say ive got a supercharger instead on turbo people will think larger of the car cause common thought people think supercharger on drag cars and turbo street cars.
 
Wagon has some good ideas. Freshen it up, check everything as you do.

Then, I reckon just spray it with a concealed kit. :twisted:
 
yer seems ok ive cleaned the body up look all nice and clean now just have to spray over the bog where rust was located and she will look all nice and clean

the interia looks grate just got to do the motor to complete the car

yer i know it going to hit me but i just want atleast new

cam
throttle body for EFI
injectors
extractors
exhaust system
and a complete rebuild of the motor with new bearings and all
5 speed manual T5
Clutch
Sport flywheel
 
Make sure the gear box doesnt have a nylon threed for a gear stick. A t5 has a bolt on shifter. If its a nylon threed its a shit weak as piss 5 speed, worth nothing. and will break.
 
i thought i would spend about 1500 on my crossflow aswell but the alloy head was corroded away and then i got it bored out 40 thou with high compression pistons and stage 1 cam and it ended up costing me 3 grand.
 
LOL that what going to happen to me it my luck lol
i rang a ford performance wrecker and he gave me a few prices and idea to do he said

Power ... Extractors (New still in bag) $320 (power what if know plz tell)
2.5 exhaust system $125 and have to put my own cadalatic converter on
30/70 cam $110 with lifter $6 - $7 a lifter each
Disc break spin(something like that) 28 spin 2.77 for $250 He said good a 9"
and
EFI manual computer $150

cause it currently an auto

and he said $750 for full conversion of 4 speed single rail gearbox with clutch pedal fitted.

if you think anything over priced tell me now before i get ripped off lol i think all the gear is second hand but for the extractors. Maybe cam too unknown.
 
just make sure that when you pull it apart you fix all the worn out parts in it cause we had to get the valve guides fixed and everything. but it was a very worn out motor.
 
Is there any real need to spend the money now?

You are going too fast on the purchases without enough groundwork to "value" them to you. There's a whole other bunch of stuff which is generally useful. Good plug leads (NEW), good radiator, reliable alternator and starter, good battery, balancer, timing set, rubber hoses all spring to mind. If you do the peripheral stuff first, it will not hold you up later.

Then plan what you can reasonably afford, and work from the inside out. A wrecker will sell you what he has, because that's what suits him.

How are your radius rod bushes? Upper arms and balljoints? Steering OK? It's a package and you need to see it as a whole.
 
Mate why would u need an efi manual ecu?????... The 3 speed auto is not controlled by an ecu, so there for auto and manual ecu's are very very similar, dont get stooged...
 
AND a 2.77 ratio diff................. it should be free... get somthing along the lines of 3.23/3.50, You will find it hard to find these ratios, but im pretty sure that xf 3.3 5 speed manuals ran 3.23 diffs
 
OK
Is there any real need to spend the money now?

You are going too fast on the purchases without enough groundwork to "value" them to you. There's a whole other bunch of stuff which is generally useful. Good plug leads (NEW), good radiator, reliable alternator and starter, good battery, balancer, timing set, rubber hoses all spring to mind. If you do the peripheral stuff first, it will not hold you up later.

Then plan what you can reasonably afford, and work from the inside out. A wrecker will sell you what he has, because that's what suits him.

How are your radius rod bushes? Upper arms and balljoints? Steering OK? It's a package and you need to see it as a whole.
Click to expand...

Im getting all new water hoses, sport spark leads, bosh super 4 plugs, sport disrubiter, radiator running sweet, alternator works great (tested the car without battery while running and runs like a charm) Np
balancer seem ok, tuning taking into sport shop at end to get the efi and computer tuned from the new injectors and cam with motor so she run without a stuter, and ill just fix any problem that hit me on the way buy replacing with a good second hand one or new.

Mate why would u need an efi manual ecu?????... The 3 speed auto is not controlled by an ecu, so there for auto and manual ecu's are very very similar, dont get stooged...
Click to expand...

See thats why i asked you guys about this computer for the manual so i don't get shited over with BS LOL

He said something about it for a 28 spine instead of 29 spine xf standard which five it better performance or something like that LOL i might be over exzadgerating a little i think but he said when he drags in his xf he said he was running one of them diff and it serposably as strong as a 9"


AND a 2.77 ratio diff................. it should be free... get somthing along the lines of 3.23/3.50, You will find it hard to find these ratios, but im pretty sure that xf 3.3 5 speed manuals ran 3.23 diffs
Click to expand...
Whats higher stand for and what lower mean wasen't it
lower the ratio better acceleration and higher higher top end something like that??

Knowing me im completly wrong

LOL thx for your time and trouble helping stupid young me lol
 
The balancer doesn't often slip, but grit is trapped at the seal, and it chafes a groove that will leak oil past the replaced seal when you do the cam swap. You fit a Speedy-Sleeve for about $14 and this fixes it.

I would say don't buy a second-hand cam that has run. Same for lifters. The only time I bought a used cam the motor was unstarted because the car was vandalised to death over a weekend. Plus, you don't have enough info on it to dial the cam in. Talk to Crow, get their recommendations and build the motor to fit your chosen cam. You'll need to tailor compression to suit it, for starters.

An alternator performs differently when hot and under maximum load than while just idling. A voltmeter is a useful gauge to install. Plus, an underbonnet fuel pressure gauge. You could consider a pair of remote oil filters to increase oil capacity and filter access. Oil pressure cutoff switch is good practice, too.

The diffs had varying spline counts. Early ones were 25 spline, from memory. Then they went to 28. The idea was finer splines meant greater load capacity. The famous Ford 9" diff is usually overkill and it costs more to buy, install and alter ratios. It may have some benefits if actually drag racing but only then. You can get ratios from about 2.78 up to 4.10 or so, for the Shane-Warner diff, but installing them and setting up is a full-on pro job.

So - what about those suspension bushings? :P
 
So - what about those suspension bushings?
Click to expand...
yer there completly shitted when i got the car and i noticed that straight away. but i got a mate who can get them cheap as pie

I would say don't buy a second-hand cam that has run. Same for lifters. The only time I bought a used cam the motor was unstarted because the car was vandalised to death over a weekend. Plus, you don't have enough info on it to dial the cam in. Talk to Crow, get their recommendations and build the motor to fit your chosen cam. You'll need to tailor compression to suit it, for starters.
Click to expand...
i will not buy a second hand cam i if my life depended on it well i would if life was on line but it not so i want to do this good first time.

An alternator performs differently when hot and under maximum load than while just idling. A voltmeter is a useful gauge to install. Plus, an underbonnet fuel pressure gauge. You could consider a pair of remote oil filters to increase oil capacity and filter access. Oil pressure cutoff switch is good practice, too.
Click to expand...

See what would i do with you guys LOL there something i wouldn't think of about my car how the alternator would run will hot. well i would think of it on someones car to hassle them about there problems LOL for the fun seem death stair ya lol. I might actualy do that extra oil capacity and filter acess sound like a great idea.

Dose the efi motor have oil pressure cut off i thought it did but hay if not more fun to have on the car before i get it on the road to get arrested for street racing on them "QUITE" back streets where the police seem to sit LOL


The balancer doesn't often slip, but grit is trapped at the seal, and it chafes a groove that will leak oil past the replaced seal when you do the cam swap. You fit a Speedy-Sleeve for about $14 and this fixes it.
Click to expand...

Well im going to pull the motor down in to a million peaces over dad garage floor lol so i can do a complete rebuild on MOTOR so if that problem comes around it will be nothing to fix


Anyone recommend any brand rebuild kit for all gaskits and stuff? cause id like to know what ones don't leak or wear out fast.

E.G. rebuild my mazda 626 about 2 months ago the stupid gaskits are leaking all over the motor lol useless things lol
 
I really suggest the ACL gaskets. You'll find a kit that suits what you plan. Leakage is often due to incorrect preparation of the mating surfaces, incorrect torquing or thread conditions. You don't want a car that visibly loses oil as this tends to make motorcyclists rather narky...

The most return on time and money I have had on a car is possibly replacing the radius rod bushes - that's why I mentioned them. Followed by a rebuilt electronic ignition (irrelevant in your case).

Alternator problems on a hot motor often have people blaming the fuel pump, filter or injectors.

The oil pressure cutoff switch is sold by Holley among others. You also need a tee and some adaptors to install it (try Earls for these bits if you are in Sydney). When the pressure gets below 7PSI, it kills the motor. Simple, eh?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top