If there was a project engine...
- Thread starter 80Stang
- Start date
Stock forged 200 rods should go 300 hp easily, but replace the bolts. The 200 rods use the same 5/16" bolts as a 289/302
80Stang
Well-known member
I think I'll slowly start to build GEN3 based on a D8 200 block unless somebody sells me a '70 HT w/250 pretty fast....
I've got the block. Let there be same kind of treatment as with GEN2 but with stock 7cc dished pistons. Zero decked, .045 gasket, .030 overbored it ends up with
- 8.15CR with 62cc chambers
- 8.34CR with 60cc
- 8.54CR with 58cc
Future will tell what kind cc heads are available, but I guess they are at 60 range.
Cam. I believe that my current GEN2 cam is at the tops in respect of the MPG and streetability goal. So what do you think, a FSPP 274SDS cam but with 113-114 lobe center?
Might be a good idea to start looking for the turbo or charger too. Single it'll be, but which one? Eaton M90, hybrid T04/T03, something else? I'll look around and see if there are some available here.
I've got the block. Let there be same kind of treatment as with GEN2 but with stock 7cc dished pistons. Zero decked, .045 gasket, .030 overbored it ends up with
- 8.15CR with 62cc chambers
- 8.34CR with 60cc
- 8.54CR with 58cc
Future will tell what kind cc heads are available, but I guess they are at 60 range.
Cam. I believe that my current GEN2 cam is at the tops in respect of the MPG and streetability goal. So what do you think, a FSPP 274SDS cam but with 113-114 lobe center?
Might be a good idea to start looking for the turbo or charger too. Single it'll be, but which one? Eaton M90, hybrid T04/T03, something else? I'll look around and see if there are some available here.
A
Anonymous
Guest
MustangSix":3a6vbs9u said:
I was wondering about that.
If I get 300 HP from my turbo 200, I'll be VERY happy!
80Stang
Well-known member
Thanks for the replies, folks!
I'm still planning, put some WTB ads around to see if I can find a cheap 250 block.
Just played with CR calculator and 250 has to be pretty stock CR-wise in if used with power adders. I mean no zero decks or flattops or anything like that, and big chambers are still must to keep CR below 8.5.
I'm still planning, put some WTB ads around to see if I can find a cheap 250 block.
Just played with CR calculator and 250 has to be pretty stock CR-wise in if used with power adders. I mean no zero decks or flattops or anything like that, and big chambers are still must to keep CR below 8.5.
A
Anonymous
Guest
This would be my dream combo.
* US 250 block bored .040
* SCP aluminum head w/66cc chambers. Yields approx. 9.4:1 w/FelPro gasket and .020 deck height
* removable alloy intake
* lightened crankshaft
* 6.21" (Ford 300)rods fitted w/ARP bolts
* Forged dished pistons 1.24" compression height
* ARP head studs and ARP main studs
* Oil windage tray
* T04 turbo
* T5 manual Transmission
* US 250 block bored .040
* SCP aluminum head w/66cc chambers. Yields approx. 9.4:1 w/FelPro gasket and .020 deck height
* removable alloy intake
* lightened crankshaft
* 6.21" (Ford 300)rods fitted w/ARP bolts
* Forged dished pistons 1.24" compression height
* ARP head studs and ARP main studs
* Oil windage tray
* T04 turbo
* T5 manual Transmission
8)
I know alot of people choose the 200 I6 but I was brought up on the old addage "There is no replacement for cubic dispalcement".
My dream motor would be a 250 I6. I know it doesnt rev as well as the 200 I6 but it does have 50 cubes more and with a proper breathing head and cam selection it should make some pretty good power.
Setup 1)
Lightened and polished crank, dry film lubricant main and rod journals, oil shedding dry film on crank throws
Lightened and beam polished rods with ARP rod bolts
forged pistons, skirts dry film lubricant coated, tops thermal barrier coated.
log head ported and polished. Log coated internally and externally with a dry film thermal barrier. Intake ports, combustion chamber, and exhaust ports coated with thermal barrier. This keeps the majority of the heat in the chamber and reflected back inot the combustion process and is supposed to increase cylinder pressure.
Roller rocker arms
Offy tri power intake with 3 x Holley 1946 carbs for a total of 585cfm of airflow.
My thinking is the airflow is sufficent for higher rpms and the Offy intake should reduce the problems of airflow having to negotiate sharp corners and end cylinder leaning.
I would also cut the intake into 3 sections if necessary to position the end carb pads to directly between the end two intake runners.
long tube dual outlet headers.
Setup 2) Actually my preferred setup.
Block same 250cid as above but head would be a Australian aluminum crossflow head ala Jack's 200 xflow project but ported and polished and bigger vavles to accomodate a built 250.
Full roller rocker arms
Redline 4bbl intake nmounting a 600cfm Holley, Crow cam, same thermal barrier coatings on ports and chamber, long tube headers.
My goal with the US/Aussie xflow 250 hybrid would be 6000rpm with forged pistons and 350hp and 350ft lbs of torque. All naturally aspirated.
I know alot of people choose the 200 I6 but I was brought up on the old addage "There is no replacement for cubic dispalcement".
My dream motor would be a 250 I6. I know it doesnt rev as well as the 200 I6 but it does have 50 cubes more and with a proper breathing head and cam selection it should make some pretty good power.
Setup 1)
Lightened and polished crank, dry film lubricant main and rod journals, oil shedding dry film on crank throws
Lightened and beam polished rods with ARP rod bolts
forged pistons, skirts dry film lubricant coated, tops thermal barrier coated.
log head ported and polished. Log coated internally and externally with a dry film thermal barrier. Intake ports, combustion chamber, and exhaust ports coated with thermal barrier. This keeps the majority of the heat in the chamber and reflected back inot the combustion process and is supposed to increase cylinder pressure.
Roller rocker arms
Offy tri power intake with 3 x Holley 1946 carbs for a total of 585cfm of airflow.
My thinking is the airflow is sufficent for higher rpms and the Offy intake should reduce the problems of airflow having to negotiate sharp corners and end cylinder leaning.
I would also cut the intake into 3 sections if necessary to position the end carb pads to directly between the end two intake runners.
long tube dual outlet headers.
Setup 2) Actually my preferred setup.
Block same 250cid as above but head would be a Australian aluminum crossflow head ala Jack's 200 xflow project but ported and polished and bigger vavles to accomodate a built 250.
Full roller rocker arms
Redline 4bbl intake nmounting a 600cfm Holley, Crow cam, same thermal barrier coatings on ports and chamber, long tube headers.
My goal with the US/Aussie xflow 250 hybrid would be 6000rpm with forged pistons and 350hp and 350ft lbs of torque. All naturally aspirated.
8)
Ack cant edit apparently.
Compression ratio would be between 9.5:1 and 10:1. My thinking was the dry film lubricant on the piston tops and chamber would prevent hotspots from forming and the xflow's high swirl chambers would further reduce chances for detonation.
Further I would add a multi spark system such as a MSD6
Forgot to add that I would dry film lubricant the cam lobes and lifter bodies. IMHO this is the next best thing to having roller lifters.
I would also dry film lubricant the timing gears to reduce friction from the double roller timing chain.
All this would be in my 1981 T-top no a/c coupe with a T-5 behind it. With a set of 3.70 gears and a 5 speed it should be pretty darn quick and have good gas mileage.
Ack cant edit apparently.
Compression ratio would be between 9.5:1 and 10:1. My thinking was the dry film lubricant on the piston tops and chamber would prevent hotspots from forming and the xflow's high swirl chambers would further reduce chances for detonation.
Further I would add a multi spark system such as a MSD6
Forgot to add that I would dry film lubricant the cam lobes and lifter bodies. IMHO this is the next best thing to having roller lifters.
I would also dry film lubricant the timing gears to reduce friction from the double roller timing chain.
All this would be in my 1981 T-top no a/c coupe with a T-5 behind it. With a set of 3.70 gears and a 5 speed it should be pretty darn quick and have good gas mileage.
A
Anonymous
Guest
i posted a question on this recently.....my TT setup would use parts off of a mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 though since most of the owners ditch the small stock turbos and intercoolers. the engines are 3 liters while ours are what....3.3L? i know, i know, "but they rev to 7300 rpms". most of the people on 3si.org say that with a nice free flowing exhaust you can get the turbos spooled up by 2.5k. that is quick enough on an i6 revving to around 6000rpms. plus it would be relatively cheap to build if you can find someone to make the manifold for you. the stock turbos (9B's) have hit the 11's on the 3700lb VR4 so they ARE capable enough for 10's on our cars IF we can make the power. just something to consider. but i would vote on a 200 cid with a clean TT setup. make it discrete enough to where it wont scare of the inspection guy though 
A
Anonymous
Guest
I vote for single turbo setup. It would be a whole lot less complicated and I honestly don't think that a twin turbo setup will give you gains that great. If you wanted the turbo to spool quickly, I would use a T3 turbo from a ford 2.3 with the .60/.63 AR. It will support up to about 325 hp. If you want something that flows a little more, but does not spool as fast, go with a Holset HX35 from a 5.9 Dodge Cummins pickup. It will support about 450 hp. Keep in mind that you don't want a turbo spooling too fast because high boost at low RPM makes for detonation.