Ignition resistor extremely hot

350kmileford

Well-known member
I've been running the Performance Distributors DSII ignition kit from ClassicInlines for about 6 months now. The ignition system has been working awesome but there's a potential issue I've always worried about but never looked into. The ignition wire resistor that runs from the ignition switch is EXTREMELY hot when I am driving the car. It has melted electrical tape and 2 zip ties. It will burn skin instantly. For those unfamiliar :

For street applications, the enclosed gold resistor must be used which will limit maximum rpms to 6500. The resistor is used as a precautionary measure to protect the coil and module from premature failure on long periods of running time. Even with the resistor in the system, the firepower from this kit is still much hotter than stock from idle to 6500. For all out racing applications, the gold resistor is not utilized, allowing the system to produce an intense spark up to 10,000 rpms. The kit includes all wiring with easy to follow instructions.
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... 0-DSII-Kit

Any ideas, reasons, suggestions?
 
Something sounds wrong to me :evil:

The only thing that causes high temps in a resistor is high current flow. Since the voltage is constant, the only thing left is a low-resistance load which results in high amp draw.

My guess is the coil is partially shorted in the primary windings, or if it is indeed ok then the ballast resistor has insufficient ohms for the task.
Joe
 
First post you said resistor wire getting hot, last post said you removed it. Which is it? You can't have both in the circuit.
 
Resistors are made to run hot, that's the nature of the beast, but there should be a warning in the installation instructions not to mount it close to anything heat sensitive (or flammable!). What would concern me is the temp of the coil itself I almost fried my accel coil by wiring it direct 12v when changing over to ds2, after a 15 minute initial run the coil was hotter than the engine itself, then I had to rip out my nice neat harness and put the pink resistor wire back in the circuit (coil only, left the dsII module on direct 12v). If you have some significant run time on the setup and the coil hasn't fried yet I'd say you're ok, might think about mounting the resistor on an aluminum heat sink though. :hmmm:
 
It isn't the actual wire that is the resistor, it is a physical, separate resistor that is in line with the wire. I removed the stock pink wire when I installed this system and put in a fresh wire.

Will extreme heat cause any issues for the wires hooked up to the resistor? Will the coating fail, wires corrode prematurely, etc.

Would it be a crazy idea to mount a 25mm computer hardware cooling fan on/at it?
 
350kmileford":1ca2u6sa said:
....

Will extreme heat cause any issues for the wires hooked up to the resistor? Will the coating fail, wires corrode prematurely, etc.

Would it be a crazy idea to mount a 25mm computer hardware cooling fan on/at it?

Yup.
Yup.
Yup.
Yup.
 
Yep, I saw the classic inlines setup you're using, I would hope they used suitable wiring for the harness, there is insulation made for extreme temps, think electric furnaces, ranges, etc, I noticed in the pic it had mounting ears on each end, I would mount it on a heat sink and just keep an eye on it. The old dodges had an external resistor mounted on the firewall in a ceramic casing these too ran extremely hot, the voltage drop you get from the resistance is what prevents you from frying your coil windings. The wiring diagram I used when I installed my dsII showed a ford coil hooked directly to 12v but after doing some research to find out why my Accel super stock coil got so hot I found that even the factory ford duraspark system used a resistance wire. IMHO there may be coils designed for full time 12v but I haven't seen any yet, maybe fine for a quarter miler but not a daily driver. By the way the Accel super stock coil in the Jegs catalog says 12v right on the label but mine was given to me by a friend and I removed the label , I was using it with my old factory dizzy, possibly they have changed since mine was made.
 
sixpony":30qbz5rp said:
.... The wiring diagram I used when I installed my dsII showed a ford coil hooked directly to 12v but after doing some research to find out why my Accel super stock coil got so hot I found that even the factory ford duraspark system used a resistance wire......

The early DS2 units during the mid 1970's did indeed use a resistor wire but Ford deleted it in the later DS2 systems.

sixpony":30qbz5rp said:
IMHO there may be coils designed for full time 12v but I haven't seen any yet.....
You haven't looked very hard yet

RANT WARNING!
Listen up folks, this is the 21st century. The only valid reason to run a ballast resistor nowadays is if you are running stock breaker points in a classic vehicle, and even my 69 VW Bug has the resistance designed into the coil so it takes full 12 volts.

Why anyone would design a so-called "high-performance" ignition nowadays that required a ballast resistor which runs so hot as to be dangerous is just beyond my comprehension. My bone-stock 81 F-150 has DS2 ignition WITHOUT any form of ballast resistor, and I converted my 74 F-350 to a DS2 ignition with a GM HEI module firing a TFI coil, again without the handicap of a stupid ballast resistor.

Boggles the mind, it does! END RANT.
Joe
 
RANT WARNING! Listen up folks said:
Thanks for setting me straight Joe, at the price of the Classic Inlines system I would hope I was getting a "state of the art system". I guess the point I was trying to make after seeing another post where a member had ruined a coil by running it straight 12v is to know the requirements of the parts you are using. Even a 20 dollar stock coil is not something I would want to ruin needlessly! Sorry if I hijacked your thread 350k.
 
A bit of history is in order:

Back in the early 1900's when "Boss" Kettering and associates at the Detroit Electric Company (later Delco) developed the "modern" high tension ignition system, they determined that breaker points could only tolerate roughly 3-4 amps of current flowing through them without burning excessively. These were six-volt systems, so they designed the coils to function properly at that level and life was good in the relatively low-performance engines of the day.

Somewhere in the 1950's most American vehicles got higher compression ratios and switched to 12 volt systems, but they used the same coils (why not, they worked fine). The higher voltage pushed higher amps through the coil (and points) which tended to burn the points. Enter the lowly ballast resistor, which dropped the voltage to maybe 7-8 volts (roughly what a six volt system charges at). This cured the points burning, and soon most vehicles also had a circuit to provide full 12 volts to the coil while cranking the engine for better starting, but automatically went back to reduced voltage during normal operation.

Later on, with the advent of smog controls, it was determined that leaner air/fuel mixtures would help reduce emissions; trouble is, leaner mixtures are more difficult to ignite (that's why we have chokes, to richen the mixture for cold starting). What was needed is bigger sparks, larger plug gaps, and higher voltage to jump those gaps. Now we need a coil having higher inductance. Trouble is, to do that we need more current flowing through the primary windings of the coil, WAY more than our puny breaker points can handle. Transistors were considered to be pretty 'high-tech' back then, so they were employed to carry the increased current loads demanded by the hotter coils. Some of the early systems used breaker points to trigger the transistors; the points only carried a fraction of an amp so they lasted almost forever.

It didn't take long for someone to figure out a way to eliminate the breaker points entirely, and the so-called "electronic ignition" was born (a misnomer because they are ALL electronic). At any rate, the current limiting feature of the breaker points was now history, and manufacturers were now able to build truly high energy ignitions.

But they didn't. For some bizarre reason, Ford continued using the very same coil on the DuraSpark systems, complete with the ballast resistor wire. My guess is they did this for cost-cutting reasons, possibly to use up old stock and keep from having to build new. Whatever the reason, General Motors ran far, far away from Ford with their HEI systems, and even though Ford later deleted the ballast resistor wire on the later DS2 ignitions it wasn't until they came out with the TFI ignitions (really just a copy of the GM HEI stuff) that Ford had a truly high powered ignition.

Please note that the GM HEI and the Ford TFI ignitions do NOT use a ballast resistor. This is on stock systems, of course, but one has to spend some serious coin to really improve significantly on a TFI/HEI coil. In fact, the much vaunted DUI ignition uses a GM HEI coil, and this is actually one of their selling points due to the fact that replacement parts are readily available. I'm sure that the DUI is a good unit, but the sparks just ain't gonna be one whit different than a GM HEI or a Ford TFI.

Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer choices.
Have fun,
Joe
 
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