Initial startup/Break-In Fluid?- "6=8" legacy mill

[MustangSix]

Joe, I would love to know how mercedes, corvettes, vipers & other vehicles come with synthetic. & seat the rings???
Either they come with mineral oil from the factory then after the 1st change to synthetic, or are these engines motored at the factory begore installation in the vehicle & or is cylinder wall & ring technology so good that they will breakin using the synthetic.
Remember all these new engines have roller lifters so no camshaft breakin is necessary.
I would advise in this older engine that you break in the engine the old way.
After the first 5000 miles then switch to synthetic with an anti scuff additive, or use shell rotella from the beginning or use mineral oil with EOS-engine oil supplement.

The answer lies in the more precise machining that engines recieve today that practically ensures that every engine is "blueprinted" from the factory. When you can provide a honed finish that practically shines with less than .0001" concentricity tolerance, coupled with a narrow, moly filled top ring, the bore is effectively sealed upon assembly. Roller lifters = no breakin. The same highly machined tolerances on the crank = no break in. And not just Covettes, etc. Even the most humble Kia benefits from this very closely machined process. Start 'em up, drive 'em away.

Unfortunately, it's tough to meet that kind of precision in a typical machine shop. Getting all your specs exactly the same, within extremely tight tolerance, is harder for human hands to do consistently than for CNC machines to accomplish. Ask a machinist to price two identical jobs, but do one of them to a .001" tolerance and the other to .00001" tolerance. The cost of those two extra zeroes will astound you!!

 

[Lazy JW]

What Jack said. I put moly rings in my 300, those things are amazing. They seated almost immediately. I have no trouble believing that a production line, modern automotive engine can be assembled precisely enough that they are able to break in just as quickly on synthetic.

I have been wasting a bit of time over at BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy). After studying numerous UOA's (Used Oil Analysis) posted there it is obviuos that there is no scientific basis to the oft heralded claim that synthetic oil is "slicker" than modern dino oil. The wear metals in the samples just do not support this misconception. The only real advantage to synthetics in general appears to be the fact that they last longer because they don't break down as readily and can be used for longer drain intervals.

I routinely do machining at work to plus or minus a half thou. That's about all you're gonna get in most shops if they are honest about it, most people really can't even measure that close even though they think they can. It takes a lotta dollars to do .00001 reliably
Joe

 

[CobraSix]

I have been wasting a bit of time over at BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy). After studying numerous UOA's (Used Oil Analysis) posted there it is obviuos that there is no scientific basis to the oft heralded claim that synthetic oil is "slicker" than modern dino oil. The wear metals in the samples just do not support this misconception. The only real advantage to synthetics in general appears to be the fact that they last longer because they don't break down as readily and can be used for longer drain intervals.

I love Bob...

yeah, it isn't any slicker, and don't recall any company ever advertising that. Only that it has longer life and as a result can build up protective barriers on parts better.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

i would not of started the engine without a teardown and check

well first i just scored a NOS 1963 autolite 1100 carb
this carb previously sealed in a ford box in the bag had corosion internally and in the throttle bore, on a aside aparently the plastic venturi is NOT redish brown, i thought phenolic, it is in fact WHITE !!

the power valve was stuck along with the needle self cleaning original 'rubber' tip
spot cleanened it, flushed, dryed, removed a bit of casting flash a little MM machine/lite oil to free it up and runs about 90%

as far as synthetic the reason(s) stability it gets COLD here transmissions get HOT and to have the vital fluids not thinning thickening or breaking down is 100% better
the increased change intervals negates the cost
i swapped my 1963 comet original AFAIK motor to syntetic amsoil 15-40 when the oil was no higher that 20 degrees and it poured like every quart of coventional 5-30>10-30 at 75 degrees i am likely going to change to 10 something
is there any zinc in the 15-40 syn oil?

 

[Anonymous]

Rich,

Did you recieve the headgaskets allright?? You must have your pop up blocker turned on because you havent replied to any of my PM's?

Thanks,

Doug