Intermittent Starting

[t-west]

Hello all,

Here's what I've done: I've made a lot of upgrades all at once (probably a bad idea), one of which was the installation of the DSII. Once I fired it up, it started no problem and idled super smoothly. Now that I've started it a few times, run it around the block once or twice, it doesn't want to start, or rather, startes only occasionally.

Initially I thought it had "warm starter" syndrome, but it did the same thing tonight after sitting all day. Also, one of the first times it didn't start I shifted into neutral and it started right up. Now that doesn't work either.

Is there some kind of starter "safety" that I'm not aware of? I know that there's a neutral safety switch, but I think I have that covered. What I do get is this clicking sound from near my control module/dizzy. I've double checked the wiring on this and it looks fine. The only "old" wire is the original hot wire from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil.

I plan to pull the starter relay and the voltage regulator and take them to autozone to have them checked. (The starter is brand new and the alternator checked out okay at autozone.)

Anything else?

--tom

 

[JackFish]

I have the same problem. I've replaced the coil, and the car runs better, but didn't solve the problem.
I think on mine it's the starter, or the wiring is shot, or both.
My battery hasn't yet died, and I have never NOT been able to start the car. I hold the key, pump the gas, and after about 30 seconds of slow cranking (or actually not cranking before the new coil) she fires right up.
Let us know how your stuff checks out.

 

[61Futura]

When asking for help about a no start issue, everyone needs to have the same definitions for "cranking", "firing", &"starting".

Cranking is like when you pull the coil wire on an otherwise perfect starting engine. The starter turns the engine over. Nothing more and nothing less.

Firing is when at least some of the cylinders are getting spark and fuel so that the engine speeds up or starts. Which brings us to starts, which is when the engine continues running after letting the key go which puts it in the run position.

If it cranks at a good normal speed, the battery and cables and starter and ground and voltage regulator and alternator (generator) are all good or not an issue. Also the starter relay is good unless the ignition output post is not being fed 12 volts to power the coil while starting. It is the only supply for spark in the starting position of the ignition switch unless unusual rewiring of the ignition system has been done.

Using those definitions of crank, fire, and start, how does yours act?

 

[t-west]

Ahh, definitions are good. Thanks 61Futura.

To be specific, occasionally my car doesn't even crank. I hear a click from the module area of the compartment when I move the ignition switch to on, then another when I move it to start, but no cranking, firing, or starting. Then, when it does "catch," it cranks, fires and starts no trouble at all. In fact, when it does crank, the engine starts after probably 1/2 a revolution of the torque converter!

The following are new: DSII and Module, coil, plug wires, battery, starter, solenoid, + and - battery wires, starter wire. The alternator tested fine at Autozone.

I tried running the + side of the coil off of the red to the control module (bypassing the resister wire), but this didn't help so I switched it back.

Could the neutral safety switch be going out? If so, how do I check it (or at least, where is it?)?

 

[t-west]

Okay, started it this morning, and so I thought I'd take it around the block, park it, and see if It'll start again. It seems that the "second start" is the problem. However . . .

When I put it in reverse, the engine lugged then died. Now it won't start. When it used to start without problems (for like one week) I had no problem putting it into gear and running around the block. Any ideas?

--tom

 

[61Futura]

I'd start with cleaning the battery posts and cables. Unless it cranks at a good speed, then it becomes a fuel or spark issue. I use a timing light to check for spark. Without one, you need to pull the coil wire from the cap and hold it close to the engine block and look & listen for the spark. I got tired of getting zapped doing it that way. If spark is also there, I'd pour a couple ounces of gasoline down the carb & see if it fires up for a second or 2. I doubt it is a fuel problem from what you have said.

When you pull the battery cables, look to see if the lead has turned black. They don't pass high current in that condition. Open your door so your dome light is on which will act as a voltage indicator when you try to crank the engine. Bad battery connections (or a bad battery) will cause
the dome light to go out when you try to start it up.

 

[Anonymous]

1) Is your ground cable run directly to the block or no?
2) Is the mounting tab for the starter solenoid properly grounded or no?
(stumps lots of folks, that one)
3) Good ground from battery neg to body/chassis or no?
4) Loose connection between solenoid and starter or no?

 

[wallaka]

Sounds like a typical Ford to me... If there is any corrosion or any other issues with the starter circuit, it'll click. And that's all it'll do. Linc and 61F are right. Make sure there's no corrosion on the wires going to the solenoid switch or starter, and make sure all the wires are tight. Clean battery terminals, etc. Make sure everything is tight. Can't repeat that enough. Ford starters use a lot of amps.

 

[t-west]

Okay, my newly rebuilt C4 did not have one of the two bolts installed in the neutral safety switch. I plugged one in, torqued it down, and now it's started every time since. Guess the new ignition switch I ordered won't be overkill, as what's in there seems to be the original.

thanks all,
--tom