IS 6-8 VOLTS TOO MUCH???

[Anonymous]

thanks to mustang six and leroy poll for really directing me into some practicle tests....i bought a voltage meter and this is what i came up with...

voltage from coil to dist :: 6-8 volts when engine is accelerated
voltage from coil to starter :: up 10.5 volts

NOTE:: this coil is a 12v coil i bought from a generic supplier...i don't know if it is designed for points

Coil #2

i went to mustang country and bought a yellow cap coil from them and did a test::

voltage from coil to dist :: 6-8 volts
voltage from coil to dist :: up to 10.5 volts


Issue :: fried points all the time

Question 1 :: are 6-8 volts enough to be frying my condensor and points?

Question 2 :: if 6-8 volts are NOT enough where else should i look?

Question 3 :: Leroy gave me a brief description of adding a 10 watt wire wound resistor....do i attach this resistor to the distributor side of the coil or to the battery side...(i'm assuming the distributor side?)

Question 4 :: what other voltage tests should i be performing?


thankyou you guys for being patient and helpful....i'm hoping with your help that i can find out why this is happening before i move towards a different ignition
thanks,
dave....


p.s.....is there a great inline six mechanic in l.a. county?

 

[Anonymous]

I think it go`s on the side of the coil

 

[Anonymous]

1. Check the Resistor wire or Ballast Resistor. You should not be getting more than 6v to the coil if that wire is working correctly. It would appear that it is partly working as you stated you are getting 6-8v. When the engine is warmed up, and runing on the alternator, you should be getting aprox 6.2v. This number will vary slightly due to electrical load, headlights radio, heater etc.

2. Check the impedance of the coil. A stock yellow cap coil will be a 6v coil with 3 ohms. A coil of leass impedance, even though the supply voltage is correct, will still fry condensors. The impedance of the coil works hand in hand with the impedance of the Resistor Wire/Ballast.

3. You should not run a 12v coil unless you supply it with 12v. It just won't work right.

Let us know how it works out.

Bill

 

[Anonymous]

the battery terminal on the coil is recieving up to 10.5 volts by way of the resistance wire.

the distributor terminal on the coil is sending up to 8 volts down the primary wire


does this help?

 

[Anonymous]

If you are getting 10.5v to the batt terminal of the coil, your Resistor Wire is not functioning. You need to check that from the igition switch to the coil. You should only get 6v to the coil.


Bill

 

[CobraSix]

YOu do need to check the voltage from the ignition wire at the coil. That is the number we need to know.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

i'll get some more numbers this am....but i have to say slade that is a damn nice mustang you got there!.....

 

[CobraSix]

Thanks...it'll be even better when the engine/tranny are back in.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

(1) 6.2 volts :: at starter solenoid switch
(2) 10.5 volts :: battery terminal on coil
(3) 6-8 volts :: distributor terminal on coil

QUESTION:: there are two terminal on the coil;
terminal #1 is the battery terminal
terminal #2 is the distributor terminal
i checked the voltage at the battery terminal at got 10.5volts is that too much and if so what is the solution?.....

 

[61Futura]

Sounds like your testing voltages while the engine is running. With the key on and engine not running and the points closed, you should get around 6 volts on the ignition power side of the coil and nearly zero volts on the distributor side of the coil. With the engine running, voltages will vary with the dwell (point gap) setting.

 

[CobraSix]

If you are running a stock coil, that is too much voltage going to the coil. You should only be getting 6-8 volts into the coil from the ignition (pink wire coming from the firewall).

Slade

 

[LEROY POLL]

HELLO DAVE

.... I SENT YOU AN E-MAIL.

LIVE IN GRACE

LEROY POLL

 

[Anonymous]

sprint66;
In order to help you understand this better---
In general, the system works like this: for a stock FoMoCo coil, there is a resistance wire between the IGN circuit on the keyswitch and the BATT terminal of the coil. The DIST terminal of the coil goes to the points.

The resistance wire should drop the 12 volts from IGN down to
8.0-10.5 volts at the BATT terminal of the coil when the points are CLOSED, engine is STOPPED, but key is ON.

If you are burning up points in less than 10,000 miles, try changing the condensor. Use a good-quality one, like Blue Streak or Balkamp (NAPA). The ones from 'CheckMate' and 'Auto Zoo' are very poor quality.

Also, check the points for the following features (to get superior points):
1. There should be a hole in the non-moving point contact. This lets the air 'get out of the way' when the points are closing for faster contact and a bigger (circular) contact pattern.
2. The rubbing block should be phenolic, not nylon or plastic. The plastic/nylon ones wear very quickly.
3. There should be 3 or 4 rivets holding the moveable arm to the spring. Any less will cause misalignments, which causes wandering dwell values and shorter-than-needed dwell at higher RPM.
4. The contacts MUST BE ALIGNED. If the faces of them are not parallel, bend the stationary one until they meet perfectly.

Do all of these things and you will be surprised at how much better the electrics run!

Good luck!