It fits...sorta. Help!

michael_cini

Well-known member
The header I have fits, but it touches the frame. Is this going to be OK, or what can I do?

header.jpg


also, i don't remember which way the oil slinger goes back on. Is it this way?

slinger1.jpg


Or this way?

slinger2.jpg
 
that header will clunk when the moter rocks n the slinger gos so the edges are away from the chain ,, looks like the first pix
 
That header won't work unless you modify it some, I don't know how though. The first pic of the oil slinger looks right.
 
Doesn't look promising. I'd be wondering about a different header.

Not keen on beating a several thousand dollar car, to make a several hundred dollar part fit right. :?
 
This may sound ridiculous, but if you want to bend a pipe slightly, grab one end and bang the other real hard on the ground. Do at you own risk.
 
wallaka":2bm8e974 said:
I'm thinking BFH on the framerail.

The early roundbodies are problematic with most headers. I use Hooker 6601's in my '63 and it needed significant BFH Massaging of the Firewall and header tube where it hits the steering idler arm. . It also needed some help at the shock tower. I'm using Hooker 6602's on the 250 in the '61. That required even more radical BFH Finesse'ing and also I had to flip the center link to clear the header tubes.

Powerband
8)
 
Take the header off, cut a 1/4" slot in the side of the collector it's not hitting on 50% of the way through the diameter.

cut it approximately 1/2 through the length of the collector.

Now bend it to collapse the cut, and weld it closed.
 
8) sometimes you can heat and bend the tubes to fit, other times you need to cut the collector flange and/or the framerail. one more thing you can do is try to shim the engine up a bit and gain some clearance that way. as for the oil slinger, pic number two is correct, pic number 3 will almost make sure you have a leak.
 
I install the slinger the way you have it in the first pic.

250 in a round body may have clearance issues. You might be able to pick up a little more space by rotating the engine slightly by lifting or shimming the left side mount or, conversely, by lowering the right side. Watch for steering linkage clearance as you do this.
 
what brand header is that? on my clifford it looks like you can cut the collector tube off a few inches .then the muffler shop can bring the exhaust pipe around to clear. i'm thinking weld in with no flange also will help the clearance.
 
thanks for all of the suggestions guys. it gives me many possibilities. i don't know what brand the header is. i bought it used for $50. (can't beat that deal) from bob beck (fellow member). he got it out of a junkyard and had it coated.

trying to shim the engine sounds like a good idea to start with. how exactly do i do this. i guess i loosen the mounts and jack it up. please explain in detail.

ian, thanks for the offer. yes, i'm in socal, van nuys to be exact. if the shimming does not help i might take you up on your offer.

i agree with you addo, no point in beating on the car when i can beat on the header if needed :wink:
 
thanks for the suggestion. what do you mean with no flange. how will they attach the exhaust pipe then?

grocery getter":3qehrv88 said:
what brand header is that? on my clifford it looks like you can cut the collector tube off a few inches .then the muffler shop can bring the exhaust pipe around to clear. i'm thinking weld in with no flange also will help the clearance.
 
They'd have to weld it directly to the header collector. I don't recommend this as future service will require cutting the pipe. If you're that close and that'll fix it though, have at it, but beware of the potential problems.
 
TexasAxMan":3moyih8p said:
They'd have to weld it directly to the header collector. I don't recommend this as future service will require cutting the pipe. If you're that close and that'll fix it though, have at it, but beware of the potential problems.

yes, they'd weld it .you could have a flange put in lower, like on the hooker headers.

headers1.jpg
 
Yeah that's another good option. Cut the collector off and re-weld it to move the flange somewhere that works.

Offer still stands.
 
Bort62":mjh4lm09 said:
Yeah that's another good option. Cut the collector off and re-weld it to move the flange somewhere that works.

Offer still stands.

this gets my vote. :) Are we voting? :lol:
 
LaGrasta":1q79or7u said:
Bort62":1q79or7u said:
Yeah that's another good option. Cut the collector off and re-weld it to move the flange somewhere that works.

Offer still stands.

this gets my vote. :) Are we voting? :lol:

Only if you are deceased and/or an illegal alien :)
 
Back
Top