Let's talk reliability

B

burnoutstang1

Well-known member
Hi guys, I'm a new member but long-time reader. Happy to be with fellow sixers.

I've had the pleasure of working with Ford over the summer through their internship program and have saved up some money, but I can't decide exactly how to attack my 66 coupe. I am a college student, and priority number one is reliability. I want it to start every time I get in and be able to take it on the occasional road trip. My budget is $1,250.

I'm having a little trouble with the front brakes right now, so the plan is to rip out the drums and go the scarebird way. I have rims I like and would like to keep them. Figuring $500 for that entire operation.

I already have the Duraspark in the car (thanks to this forum!)

So with $750, what would you guys do to improve reliability? Pony carb? EFI? Down payment on a new car?

Thanks!
 
burnoutstang1":3jo49o6p said:
..... and priority number one is reliability. I want it to start every time I get in ....
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Upgrade the DS2 using the GM HEI module and either a TFI or HEI coil. When you set up the HEI module, mount TWO of them side by side so if one of the dies (rare) then you can switch to the other one quickly. The schematics and other info is available at www.gofastforless.com

Install a high quality distributor cap that has brass terminals rather than aluminum. Also install high quality spark plug wires that have the solid core with spiral windings.

Install an auxiliary electric fuel pump. Install an oversize fuel filter in the line and change it sooner than needed (I guarantee your 66 has crud in the tank unless you have replaced it already) Maybe consider replacing the fuel tank anyway.

Make up a jumper wire for "hot wiring" the car in case the ignition circuit (switch, wiring, etc.) goes bad. Practice hot wiring SAFELY! Keep the jumper wire in the vehicle.

Replace the old battery cables with new HIGH QUALITY items, and make certain that all connections are clean, tight, and protected from corrosion.

Install a high quality battery. I like Optima's. Install a volt meter somewhere readily visible from the driver's seat and learn to read it.

Maybe consider an entire wiring harness. Most of the little nagging problems on old vehicles involve bad wiring and dirty fuel tanks.
Have fun and WELCOME! to the forums,
Joe
 
I dont know that $750 would for sure do the complete EFI system. I think by the time you add every bit that would ultimately be involved you may spend more. Also since there are not complete bolt on kits it takes time to get it all working. If you are having carb issues something like a pony may be a good move.
 
The ignition upgrade is a very good start. You don't mention anything about the condition of the engine itself. If it has some miles on it you may want to pull the head and do a valve job and while you are at it change the cam. If all is good with the over all engine condition I would look at installing a new less restrictive exhaust.
 
Great suggestions. I've already replaced the battery with a high quality one and added new cables. Upgrades to the starting system are a good idea, as is replacing the fuel tank. I've had trouble with that a couple times already. It seems induction is the source of my starting problems most days. I have a walboro fuel pump I'd like to hook up in addition to a fuel regulator in an effort to eliminate the stock mechanical fuel pump.

Another consideration is the limits of my current garage. I lack the ability to pull the engine so weekend projects would be preferrable. I'm not opposed to doing indepth work, however I would need assitance also eating into the budget.

The engine itself hasn't been rebuilt to my knowledge. It runs well, but has quite a few miles on it.
 
Are you running DS II with a '66 Loadamatic type 1100 carb? If so, go for a reman/rebuilt carb. You can get a complete, rebuilt, HW 5200 setup from Langdon's for about $120. Replace the fuel and wqater pumps as a preventive measure. Put in rebuilt alternator, voltage regulator & starter.
 
Yes, right now I have the original autolite 1100 on there. And if I went the 5200 route should I use Stovebolts adapter or classic inlines? How will these carbs work when mated to an electric fuel pump?
 
Several of our members use manifold vacuum for vacuum advance. Since the DS II has mechanical and vacuum, you might fiddle with it. Just remember to set initial advance with vacuum plugged.

As far as HW5200, do a search, and you'll see lots of material. I did not see any gains in power or economy when I switched from the 1100 to the 5200. Nothing I could notice. I'd say the best thing to do on a budget is modify/grind the intake to direct mount an Autolite 2100. Check out Mike's dyno test results. http://www.fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54061&hilit=dyno+results
 
I have 5200 on my 67 and it was a pain to tune. Since they were made for 4 cyl engines they aren't tuned correctly. I have a Holley 350 cfm 2bbl sitting in my room that I might swap out sooner or later.
 
Now that I think about it, I actually have a Holley 2300 350 cfm laying around somewhere. Maybe a rebuild and an electronic choke would serve reliability well. Direct mount onto the log would be a great start. So right now I'm thinking those two steps, anew gas tank and the upgrades to the ignition. Other thoughts?
 
burnoutstang1":1beiyo4a said:
..... I am a college student, and priority number one is reliability......
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If you are serious about this be very careful to not get pulled into the black hole of "while I've got it this far apart......." :twisted:

You need three things to make an engine run; compression, fuel, and ignition. You already have adequate compression, so focus on reliable fuel and ignition. Fancy carburetors, fancy exhaust, etc. will not add one whit to basic reliability.

Good wiring and a clean fuel tank will.
Joe
 
Lazy JW":uwk6nln1 said:
Make up a jumper wire for "hot wiring" the car in case the ignition circuit (switch, wiring, etc.) goes bad. Practice hot wiring SAFELY! Keep the jumper wire in the vehicle.

Joe
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Joe pretty much hit the main nails squarely on the head
i might check out the cooling system pretty thoroughly, but other than that i don't have anything to really add

except, i had a jumper wire in the car, and under the hood, concealed underneath my air cleaner housing, but outside the filter, i had a wire coat-hanger
i used it several times when i locked my keys in my car.... :rolflmao:
 
Those are definitely words of wisdom, but the carb seems to be a continuing issue for the car. So it will need to be replaced. The question is keep it simple and go pony or up it to a 2bbl.
 
Lazy JW":3r0cgcko said:
\
....If you are serious about this be very careful to not get pulled into the black hole of "while I've got it this far apart......." :twisted:.....

Joe
Click to expand...

This is a true story. As a fellow college student with a forty year old car for my DD, I gave in to the black hole last spring which led to many many Ramen noodle dinners and relying on my generous boss to let me borrow the company truck for a few days/weeks. Take it slow, I didn't and it nearly broke me more ways than one. Yeah, my motor's a lot better now, but I also still have drummies all around and the suspension that can only be appreciated at the old folks home. I'm playing catch-up on those portions of the vehicle now and the list goes on.

Stephen
 
I would finish off the ignition system. I disagree with the HEI module + heatsink upgrade as being a sure fire way to reliability, though it is an inexpensive project. I have the Accel 300+ digital ignition module, and a coil from a TFI ford. Summit has the box on sale right now for $89 (list is $189). Get a coil from a junkyard 80s/90s ford, heck even two, keep one in your glove box. If you have not serviced your cooling system, definitely address this if you are serious about a road trip. Waterpump, 180 thermostat, new cap, hoses and belt. I suggest an electric fan conversion, they're inexpensive and well worth it in hot climates, and frees up a few ponies. I would not spend the coin on a pony carb. Get a junkyard RBS or YF for a little more flow over your 1100 and rebuild it. This will be inexpensive and easily swapped over. Ideally, I would direct mount a rebuilt autolite 1.08 if you have the tools and time. With careful planning, you could do this with the head installed and minimal downtime. Finally, a good starter, selenoid and charging system should round it out nicely, with all wiring and terminal connections cleaned or replaced. I think you could do nearly all the above within your budget. If there is anything left, a cheap gauge set (water temp, vacuum, voltage, oil pressure) would be nice to monitor and tune your coupe. I agree with the "black hole". Stick to a well thought out gameplan and good luck!
 
If you're going to replace the gas tank, get one for a 67/68. It drops right in, and increases your capacity. It will sit a little higher in the trunk, but not much. That's one option I'm considering for my next road trip.

As long as we're talking reliability, make sure all brake components are new or rebuilt. Pay particular attention to the master cylinder, which can leak out the rear seal, and go unnoticed until you step on the pedal an nothing happens. :shock:
 
351 celi":2mzhcu8l said:
..... I disagree with the HEI module + heatsink upgrade as being a sure fire way to reliability....
Click to expand...

Which is why I suggested installing two of them side by side. For extreme reliability a well-maintained breaker point ignition is tough to beat.
Joe
 
until you step on the pedal an nothing happens
Click to expand...

Actually had this happen to me last fall. Fortunately it was in a parking lot. :?

Rear master cylinder had ruptured. Had them replace both rears at that point, and want to just get rid of the drums in the front, hence the scarebird conversion.

So it looks like cooling, braking and ignition are the most important parts.

Right now I'm thinking:

New 67 gas tank, new fuel lines, and sending unit (needs to be replaced)

New cap, hoses and belts, (already have the 180 installed last year) for the cooling

New in-engine bay wiring. This is hold and cobbled together. New wiring would probably help a ton.

In regards to the ignition is it already hooked up to a brand new accel coil. Will this suffice or is it worth making the switch?

Something carb. Not sure what. Preferrably something with a REALLY good choke.

Thoughts?
 
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