Mechanical throttle linkage,4412 VS 7448 Holleys

[wsa111]

Fellow 6 cylinder owners.
I have a working prototype mechanical linkage set-up for a holley 2300 2 barrel carburetor on a modified log manifold.
The car is a 67 mustang which will be the final installation of a 1980 cylinder head. This head has the larger log,intake ports & many other improvments. The head has received a .075 milled cut off the head surface to bring the cc's down to 50. The intake bowls have been cleaned up with the removal of the projecting valve guides right in the bowl airstream. The exhaust ports have been opened up & both the intake & exhaust valves have been upgraded by valves from fssp. the exhaust valve has been cut down to 1.430" & hardened valve seats have been installed. The reason i cut the valves to 1.430 from 1.5, is because i feel the valves with the hardened seats would be too close to the combustion wall.
Before milling the log, certain log areas were filled in with brass, by brazing. If i do another log i might try muggy weld so you don't have to preheat the head.
The bill of materials are as follows:
1 throttle lever extension holley # 20-7-part of the lever has to be hack-sawed off & the remaining part bolted to the carburetor throttle lever.
1 mr. gasket ball joint 2/set 3811g
1 1/4" rod ends 2/set 3812g
1 again mr. gasket universal bellcrank kit 1524
2 mr. gasket linkage rods 3815
You will have to use a 1/4-28 die to remove plating from the threads & to thread the connector between the bellcrank lever & the carburetor throttle lever extension.
Another nice addition is the fuel bowl-quick change jet kit 34-25 & the clear sight plug 26-113. this is on a 350 cfm. The 500 cfm has the shiney finish & you will have to use the chrome quick change bowl set-up.
The mounting piece is a 1/4 x 1" piece of aluminium stock which i found in lowes home improvment center. You will have to plug the egr hole with a pipe plug & mount the aluminium stock to the head using the 2 egr mounting bolt holes. I also drilled & tapped a#10 screw with spacer at the forward end of the log to steady the stock.
The stock 6 cylinder lever can be used in this installation. I figured about 1" to 1 1/8 movement of the firewall stock throttle lever to get the job done.**Remember this is on a 67 mustang with a previous stock autolite 1100 carb. So check your distance of movement on you perticular application.
Last but not least but i welded the first half of the stock linkage to the thicker mr. gasket throttle rod to the bell crank.
On with the photos.Notice the plate which mounts to the modified intake log is milled on an angle to maintain the stock air cleaner angle for proper hood clearance.
One last thing, remember to lap the valves in then back cut to the lap in using a valve grinder around the 28 degree area. The gain is flow is well worth your time & money. Good luck william ambler

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I want to put a plug in for mike at fspp, he now has these hooker headers by jetcoat #6601. these headers have a 38" 1 1/2 primary to 2 2 1/2 outlets. Thanks mike for your great support of quality parts.
Notice the slight twist of the longer lever of the bellcrank to achieve a better angle for the ball linkage to the carb.

 

[Anonymous]

looks great but still over my head. I am gonna have to use the adaptor, a s I am not taking my head off to do it when I do.

i am gonna try to have the intake hole drilled out IN THE CAR...with some rags and grease...

I really should get an extra head and work it up.....

 

[MandarinaRacing]

Puuurty
Very nice....William....

Alex

 

[Anonymous]

Kewl!!! 8) 8) 8)

Now when do you think you'll install it?? Sometime this winter?? What exhaust system did you finally decide on?

Good job!!

Doug

 

[wsa111]

Doug, I had given thought of going from the 2 1/2 dual header outlets to a 2" then to a single 2 1/2" pipe to a camaro muffler with dual 2 1/4 outlets.
I may reconsider & use the new flowmaster mufflers.
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/cgi-b ... d=QfDsb5v6
I would come out of the collectors to dual 2" pipes to an X pipe then through these new flowmasters to a true dual system.
I'm leaning to the flowmasters or possibly borlas??
Thanks for the positive coments on the setup. william

 

[wsa111]

Doug, i sent a pm to you with the flowmaster sound track, your dynomax single setup with a dual outlet sounds great. I still will go with the flowmaster hushmaster II.
your sound track with the dynomax is as follows. http://www.geocities.com/mustang_man_1966/index.html
the sound track for the flowmasters is as follows.
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/soundsh.html
Both sound great, but because of the dual outlet hooker header i have decided to go with the full dual system via an x pipe then to the flowmaster hushmaster II to dual 2" pipes. william

 

[Falcon62]

I have to ask, other than keeping the exhaust pipe routing simple around the axle and fuel tank, why run a dual outlet header into a Y to a single inlet/dual outlet muffler? This has always 'baffled' me (pun intended).

If there is a performance advantage in running a single outlet, then why not start with a single outlet header and run 2 1/2" all the way back? And how does adding a single in/dual out muffler help with flow and performance? Or is it just about sound (I know that's not the case with Doug's setup)?

 

[wsa111]

Phil, i know this post started out as linkage only, but we got side tracked on exhaust.
The set up i will use is a 2" reducer out of both header collectors then to a x pipe then dual pipes out of the x pipe to 2 flowmaster hushmaster II mufflers & exiting using dual exhaust tail pipes.
A fellow by the name of todd fields, which is the source of my aluminium water pump said he has used the dual outlet headers then to a single pipe to a single muffler then to two outlets. He stated for the street it works fine.
I guess if someone had the time & money to either dyno test or drag strip times we could end the discussion.
My personal feeling a dual outlet header would outperform a single outlet header regardless of exhaust system. :idea: good question william

 

[Anonymous]

just converted....major problems with the orig single barrell so thought i would try it. now not sure if it was the right thing to do. could use some advise...have some great pics of what i did but can't seem to attach them. little help please!!!

 

[Anonymous]

sorry....67 conv. stock 200/6

 

[wsa111]

Since my last post , i have purchased a 500 cfm 2300 holley carb. Which in 4 barrel flow is about 350 cfm. Shown is the new carburetor with the chrome quick change jet bowl. If you purchase this chrome bowl, you will have to run a 3/8-24 tap through the quick change bowl plugs & the inlet needle & seat. Plus run a 6-32 tap for the float mounting plate. Holley is slack to produce this type of product to the average guy. They should have the threads chased of the residue from chrome plating before selling this product to the public. Here is an other example of engineering selling a part where the buyer has to do the final fix on a product.
I plan to try the 350 vs the 500 carb when i get the setup on the vehicle.
I'm waiting for hurricane season to end before i plan to down a vehicle.
I will let you know the results. thanks william ambler.

 

[xctasy]

Thanks for the heads up, William.

Lexus would never do that, the'd sell the whole engine as a package. Wait till Toyota start winning Grand Prix races.

Holley's carb wing is living on name now, rather than quality. There EFI looks trick, and there new stuff looks so much better. There reputation took a huge battering with the #4360 and later plastic 600 cfm carbs in the 1976 to 1990 area. Warped bases, no follow up. They expanded so far, that they had to wind up product lines like thew 2305 and 650 cfm 2300. Barry Grant, Demon and Edelbrock provided the competion needed for Holley to lift there game.

Rest of the carb looks wonderfull.

Make sure you tell them. I've seen some very pleasent aftermarket support, espeically with the opening up of jeeting protocols and all the stuff which was such a black art even 5 years ago. They only as good as there product!

 

[Anonymous]

looks great but still over my head. I am gonna have to use the adaptor, a s I am not taking my head off to do it when I do.

i am gonna try to have the intake hole drilled out IN THE CAR...with some rags and grease...

I really should get an extra head and work it up.....

ditto...but I already ground mine while it was on the car...i didnt use grease cause if the grease got in too far to clean out, the metalk would stick to that and when u started the engine it would melt the grease and get sucked in with the filings...worst case senerio...but i just packed in the rags on either side, then ground away and when i was done i vacuumed it out real good, then took out the rags and vacuumed again...no problems. nice thing about the middle cylinders being where they are is that theres lotsa room for rag and less chance of the filings entering the chambers....I got a new job but dont start till either later this week or beginning of next week (tire shop, so I may have new wheels soon ) and its full time as apposed to part time like i got now, so I will be able to modify sooner than i thought.

I have a rochester 2bbl, just a basic one from a dodge ram van...is the bolt pattern the same as a holley?

 

[wsa111]

Dave, your efforts by grinding & using an adapter are a bandaid to get full benefit from the holley carburetor increase in flow potential.
if you don't mill the log to allow a full flow of the carburetor you are probably better off togo with a pony single carb update for increased cfm flow. they offer a 215 cfm 1100 carb which will help your performance.
The best bet is save your money & buy an oz head from mike@ www.fordisxparts.com good luck william

 

[Anonymous]

hmmm...it'll sure be tough to hold off that long while i save, lol...but I suppose i can put away part of each check toward inline funds and just use that...till then i will check out how much the pony carb is as i may need to replace mine soon anyways.

your setup looks really awesome though.

 

[wsa111]

There seems to be much interest in modified log set-up using holley 2300 carbs. I thought i would post this one more time for those interested.
To be honest i would now have used an OZ or an ARGIE head, because the cost of doing all the work on this head still will not match the flow of both of these heads. But lets move on.
The head is now on my 67 mustang, i have gone to the yella terra 1.65 roller arms from FSPP. I presently have the 4412 holley 500 cfm carb installed which i am doing the last bit of fine tuning on. The next carb will be a 7448 holley 350 cfm to compare results. My present main jet on the 4412 is a 70. This is on the lean edge. I still am doing final work possibly using a 2 stage power valve 9" to 2.5". It seems to fill in the holes in the mixture between cruising & full throttle. The last concern is the accerator cam & discharge nozzles, still fooling with them to eliminate a either rich or lean condition at instantant full throttle acceration.
I did a quick 0-60 time & it is in the 8-8.5 second area.
The exhaust is the hooker headers, which by the way hang very low. They lead to 2" out of the collectors to an X pipe then to dual flowmaster hushpower II mufflers. The exhaust is a combination of between a six & an eight cylinder sound. The engine is very responsive. I'll post pictures later. William

 

[ski4evr]

William, I'm confused with the linkage setup (by the way, what you've done looks great). My '65 mustang has the throttle lever that goes behind the engine to the passenger side - then has an arm that extends forward to the midpoint of the engine. Pushin the gas pedal causes the end to move up and down ~ 2-3 inches. The rod that you have extending back from the forward pivot point (about 16" worth) is what is confusing me. How does your throttle linkage on your '67 work? Modified?

 

[Anonymous]

William, I'm confused with the linkage setup (by the way, what you've done looks great). My '65 mustang has the throttle lever that goes behind the engine to the passenger side - then has an arm that extends forward to the midpoint of the engine. Pushin the gas pedal causes the end to move up and down ~ 2-3 inches. The rod that you have extending back from the forward pivot point (about 16" worth) is what is confusing me. How does your throttle linkage on your '67 work? Modified?

Good question. I was wondering the same thing but after studying the photos alittle more I think I see how it would connect to the existing throttle rod. The new rod that is taped back to the head would be attached to the existing throttle rod where the stock spring would normally be attached, right? Meaning, when the existing throttle rod is pushed up, it then would push up the new rod and so forth from there, right? Would you mind posting some pictures of your installation after you have it together in your ride?



-Chris

 

[wsa111]

You fellows requested how the linkage hooked to the stock accelerator arm. the vehicle is a 67 mustang, so other years of products may have a different accerator pedal linkage. Hope this helps. William

This linkage works to perfection i am very satisified with the results.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks!



-Chris