Mostly for Falcon & Fairmont sufferers..

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The cramped underhood situation in the Falcon (round-body) and Fairmonts (sloped hoods) makes a hot-soak situation even worse with the 200 engines. At least, Ford's head boys cast a depression to hold all that boiled-out fuel safely in the intake until it gets started (or evaporated).

Now...I'd like to attempt to defeat (or at least, reduce) the hot-soak situation to reduce my starter costs. It is, and always has been, hard to start after a hot soak of 15-30 minutes because of the load of fuel in the manifold. This has cost me more starters, new and rebuilt, on this one engine than all my other 22 cars added together since 1967 (and one flywheel).

So, let's talk about things you guys have found that help... :?:
 
MarkP":y9uneul7 said:
At least, Ford's head boys cast a depression to hold all that boiled-out fuel safely in the intake until it gets started (or evaporated).

So, let's talk about things you guys have found that help... :?:
Click to expand...
I saw that webbing and thought "How lazy". Out came the drill, chisel and die grinder. Then Doug tells me that the fuel will run onto the headers. :?
 
In theory, placing a exhast port divider and placing a henium or expoxy substrate on the fins would be the way. Or finding some way of physically interuption convection from those side by side exhast runners betwwen 3 and 4.

For the EFI system I'm buliding, I've planned the use of a folded tin gasket to stop heat soak, polished on the under side, and black on the top. This gets mounted on the exhast flange.

The best option? Mount two 1 or 2-bbl carbs between the cylinders 3 and 4 and 4 and 5. Block off the heat riser entirely.

The worst should be the early pre 69 200's with small intake carb diameter. The heat stove is brilliant on those!
 
Yeah, I'd love to try some other carb setup, but the local tailpipe sniffers take a dim view of modified intakes. They even made me go back to Ford and spend $200 on adding back the missing AIR (Air Injection Reactor) plumbing and valving, even though I was at only 20% of the allowable limits. :x

I've wondered about some sort of 'deflector', but it looks like an origami project in stainless steel from here. :cry:

That's why I'm wondering if anyone else has had any successes.

Adam - sorry about the missing 'ribs'. :wink:

Actually, they're also a bit of a help in the turbulence department - today, though, you can spend an extra few hundred putting a Tornado in your inlet, so say the ads... :roll:
 
Mark where in CO are you? I guess I have not titled my 66 here yet, but I know some places that are more friendly....

Bill
 
Mark, I'm cirious as to where in CO you are as well. I just moved to CO. I'm not all that worried about the 2 falcons, but the truck might be a bit of a problem. I'm currently in the Denver area, but I'm looking at a few places just outside.
Edwin
 
One thing that works for the V12 Jag XJS crowd is a time delay-off electric fan. The V12 engine compartment is very cramped and heat is a killer on them as well. By running one of the radiator cooling fans for 10 minutes after hot shut down, the engine can be cooled considerably just by thermal siphon effect. The addition of hood louvers seems to help too.
 
CO66 and RedTudor;

I'm in the west side of Denver metro, almost in the foothills. If you have something over 25 years old, it can be easier (I have a couple of those), but the Fairmont is less than that. Also, there will be (and are already being built) curbside and clover-leaf 'detectors' that will photo you if high hydrocarbons are found behind your vehicle, notably during deceleration (this indicates the use of port vacuum into the dizzy, a popular illegal mod up here). They are working on the CO sensors, but the infrared is having trouble 'seeing' through the high UV up here, so it's coming a little slower. As it happens, I know the guys who are developing the technology.. :?

MustangSix and Addo: I thought about the hood vent bit, and if I could find some like my old '72 Toyota Celica had, might do that. They were flush-mount, about 2x6 inches and had a 'rain gutter' under them that helped keep the water funneled where you wanted it. The Toy had enormous underhood heat troubles, so much so that in subsequent years Toyota completely enshrouded and insulated the exhaust header to reduce the warranty problems due to the heat. The carb used to boil over so bad that it would cause ring seizure in clinders 2 & 3 (4-banger 18RC engines).

My electric fan draws 18 amps. I guess I'd have to study the drain a little before trying to run it very much: that 10-minute run would be only about .6 amp-hours... hmm...
 
The way they activated the time delay fan was with a relay for a rear window defroster. Some of them have timers which will activate the relay for several minutes then shut off automatically.

Fan power consumption can be high. Running one for more than a few minutes could kill the battery.
 
If you ran two fans normally, one could be on the time delay.

With louvres, my thoughts were near the back edge of the bonnet (OK, hood :P ). That way at low speeds or standstill, the heat would vent up and out. At road speed, the air pressure being high there would force through the slots and down, exiting under the car.

Adam.

p.s. Won't those roadside sniffers get "damaged" like this did?
naughty.gif


 
addo":1o8e19w8 said:
If you ran two fans normally, one could be on the time delay.

With louvres, my thoughts were near the back edge of the bonnet (OK, hood :P ). That way at low speeds or standstill, the heat would vent up and out. At road speed, the air pressure being high there would force through the slots and down, exiting under the car.

Adam.

p.s. Won't those roadside sniffers get "damaged" like this did?
naughty.gif


Click to expand...


Ooops. Emission control Aussie-style. Opposition MP Laden will now be canvessing a carbon tax. Or maybee he did that one night on a drunken rampage like the Premier...
 
I think I'll go junkyarding and look for some of those old Toyota vents. They look nice, too, and would add a little different look when I go to paint it next summer!

I'll have to pass that emission-control control scheme around. 8)
 
How about a nice thick phenolic spacer between the carb and intake manifold? Like 1/2 inch or so.
My Corvair uses factory phenolic spacers about 1/4 inch thick on all it's carbs (4 x 1bbls) to prevent heat soak/carb boil. The combination of gasket/spacer/gasket seems to insulate the carbs well from the extremely hot head temps (400+ degrees) that are common to corvairs.
Rick(wrench)
 
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