Motor stalls out after warmup.

[61EconoDave]

I have a 1961 Econoline with a 1963 block (either a 144 or 170) with solid lifters. The truck runs alright (not great) and is drivable untill it gets up to operating temperature. It then wants to stall out and is very hard to restart. Most times I will have to wait between 30 minutues to an hour before I have any luck with it. Timing is at 10* with #1 going by the mark on the harmonic ballancer, anything else and the truck don't run well. To me its a timing issue, but I wanted to run it by you guys first.

Thanks for your help
David in Huntsville AL

 

[Harte3]

Coil might be breaking down. Try a known good coil on it.

 

[61EconoDave]

That was one of the first things I replaced on it. It has had two different new coils on in within a year.

 

[69.5Mav]

If the spark is good then the list shortens. What do the spark plugs look like?

 

[61EconoDave]

I did not replace the spark plugs. They are dark brown/black but dont look oily. The motor don't seam to have a miss while it is running so it was low priority on the list at the time. I had to move it to my house after my dad passed away. The last time this truck was ran for any amount of time was 12 years ago, and it was driving in cow pastures then (me learning a clutch). It had the same problems then as it does now. For what it is worth, does #6 supposed to have the same timing as #1, since it is 180* on the dizzy? If so, then there may be my problem. It is a few degrees different (around 1 or 2*).

 

[69.5Mav]

Sounds like you are running to rich.

I would check the choke next it should be wide open when the engine warms up. If not hold it open while you try to start it. If you can start it then you have found the source of your problem.

Your carb could be dumping to much fuel due to a stuck float but this is less likely since it only stalls when warm.

Your could have a plugged up air filter but again this is less likely as it would stall even when the engine is cold.

 

[61EconoDave]

It has a manual choke and it is set wide open. I have never used it, summer nor winter, to help get the truck started/ running.

As for it being rich, what do I need to adjust?

 

[Ba Mustang]

Air/Fuel mixture

 

[69.5Mav]

If you can start the car without the choke you are running to rich imo.

Start by adjusting the idle mixter screw, turn it in by rotating clock wise (CW).

If this has no effect them gently turn it al the way in being carefull not to jam the screw into the seat as this will distort it. If the engine still continues to run then the gas is comming from someplace else.

Next thing to check is the float. This is the device, along with the needle valve, that turns off the gas flow into the carb when it reachs the correct level. If it is set to high or not working gas will spill over into the engine and cause a rich mixture.

The way to check the float is to disassemble the carb. At this point it would be wise to get a carb rebuild kit and rebuild it.

I am not trying to talk down to you so please excuse me if I oversimplified things. Just trying to help

 

[sasktrini]

EconoDave,

Engines in these Econos with the little doghouse is prone to fuel in the carb evaporating due to heat in there. The carb is almost right on top of the exhaust manifold, and there is no circulation or anywhere for that heat to go but up to the carb. That's why you have to wait for the engine to cool for a half hour... fuel is normal again.

Sometimes, in addition to the mounting plate that the coolant lines go through, a shroud is put underneath to shield the carb from heat radiating off the exhaust manifold. I don't have pics, but I'm certain this is a starting point for you to have that truck running good down there.

Also, my Chiltons says a 61 Falcon Six (144 and 170) is supposed to have 6*BTDC, and it went to 4*BTDC in 63. Maybe that's creating a little extra heat. That said, your balancer pulley may have slipped like mine... rubber got all crusty and cracked that my timing mark was wayy out. So I got a new one. Try removing the number one plug and manually find TDC against your current mark... You'll know for sure if your pulley's bad.

Good luck.

 

[61EconoDave]

I will check the fuel mixture at the carb this weekend if it is nice outside. The carb is about the only thing that I have not messed with over the last year.

No one ever responded to the comment I made about my timing. Even if this isn't my problem, I am still concerned about it. I thought that the marks were supposed to be the exact same for both 1 and 6 since they are 180* from each other. If they are to be the same, then would that be a worn distributor or worn timing chain or could be both?

I put in a pertronix electronic ignition last summer and I had to bump up the timing just a bit for it run like it did before the swap. Still same symptoms it had before. I didn't know the timing at the time as I didn't have a light. After I got one, that's when I found out that I was at about 10* on #1 and that #6 was set different.

 

[sasktrini]

Yeah... the mark should appear at the same point... 1 and 6 are both at the same position on the crank, 180* apart on the cam and dizzy. one is leaving the compression stroke and the other the exhaust stroke. With timing, you gauge it off of #1. The timing chain, cam and dizzy follow along...

See all the chunks of rubber missing just inside the red ring? the dried chunky rubber cause the outer pulley to slip around. Look at yours. That pulley ring will just fly off if the rubber is deteriorated enough.

I do recall that when I replaced the pulley, I also did replace the timing chain set as well... went from about an inch of deflection in the chain to virtually no deflection with the new set. Then if you used a timing light to compare #1 and #6, they should be the same.

I would get a timing chain and gear set to get rid of the slop.

I'll stand by the settings I recommend in my other post... '63 should only be 4*BTDC. With your current timing chain and gears, the crankshaft would actually have moved to a more retarded position... I mean that you currently have 10*BTDC dialed in according to the timing mark, but it's actually at 4 or 6* due to the timing chain slop. Price out a new pulley if you're going to do this job, as they are prone to fail...

 

[61EconoDave]

I worked on the truck just a little while Saturday. I turned the fuel mixture down just a quarter turn and the motor bogged down like it wasn't getting enough fuel, so I turned it back to where it was at so that it would stay running. I have an offer for a 1968 200ci motor, so I may just buy it, do a complete rebuild and start over.