MSD FIXED ALL OF MY PROBLEMS I LOVE IT!!!!!1!!!1!!!one!!!

hasa68mustang

hasa68mustang

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yea the title says it all, no bogging, missing, stalling... no matter how hard I tried.. I was having the brake torqueing issue... hehe not any mroe lights em up like theres no tomorrow... I almost wet myself... I couldnt stop grinning... :D that was me... its amazing... I installed the 6al and a blaster 2 coil, 270 from automotive engineering... if only you guys know how excited I am right now... I have a question was I supposed to buy the duraspark coil? I noticed theres a coil listed for duraspark and regular after I looked up the prices, I have the regular oon and it seems fine... YAY!!! but no yay for tires... its amazing nooooo hesitation..... :D :D :D :D :D :D :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
lol ya I shoudl probably stop the whoel see how many tires I can go through before getting a ticket or in trouble.... this is my 3rd set on the rear... and I figured out if I come to a fast stop then burnout both back tires spin... hehe another not good thing to find out... ok well I have to goto bed.. if I can... I probably wont be able to sleep as I will be thinking of the car... yay mid terms tomorrow :cry:
 
turbo_fairlane_200":frbcljwc said:
I think the duraspark coil just has the top to accept the horseshoe connector is all.
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thats what it looked like in the picture... confused us a bit but we got it all figured out... total install time about 45 mins because of limited tools and supplies as I did it at home... ok bed now for real... I pluged in the 3k chip for kicks.. its pretty funny to hit it... although my tach doesnt ork now... I usually used the speedo/ear anway...
 
What kind of problems were you having? Mine is still stalling under light acceleration and will die if I don't let off the pedal, but its fine when I open it up. Already changed the ignition wires, distributor, spark plugs, fuel pump, filter and I added an inline fuel pressure gauge (6.5 - 7psi). The only thing left is the carb, but I just don't understand it, it all worked fine on the old engine. Question? anyone know if the jets are marked (i'm sure they are) with the size? I can't find any documentation on what size jets I have so I'll have to take it apart and look at them.

Sorry about all that. I'm really happy that you figured yours out, and I hope I can be just as happy when mines all done!!. You should do better at the track now!
 
well it had a hesitation off the line, when trying to make for a quick break in traffic you would floor it and it would sputter and if Ididnt let off it would stall, I wasnt able to hold the brakes and gas at the line while racing... it would bog then stall, I also had a probelm while coming out of turns I Would give it gas and it would sputter and unless you were quick on letting off it would stall, lots of hesitations and stalling... soooo glad I got mine figured out, good luck with yours...
 
and for the record the making a break for a hole in traffic was simply an example, I was too scared to try to even make the slightest of chances.. people behind me LOVED me :wink:
 
The fact that you netted an improvement with an ignition add-on simply points out that there were almost certainly ignition issues beforehand. Maybe even a duff DS-II module? Is your dizzy recurved for that cam and the auto?
 
Good to hear about an improvement on the situation. Makes for a nice Xmas present doesn't it ? A well setup stock system should've worked better indeed but the bottom line is, now it works. Congrats & have a nice Xmas. Have mercy on the tires, however :D
 
addo":1f1f3pns said:
The fact that you netted an improvement with an ignition add-on simply points out that there were almost certainly ignition issues beforehand. Maybe even a duff DS-II module? Is your dizzy recurved for that cam and the auto?
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As for the recurve, no, I never really looked into it as I am hoping to get the turbo and a 5 speed so and I dotn believe it would be the same. when I had the 1 bbl it was good for awhile then I managed to put a crack in it internally :? so instead of buying a new one I bought the D8 head and the holley, and the duraspark setup, it wasnt bad until recently, infact last thursday I was only have the problem coming out of turns, the bogging while brake-torqueing you could at least get them to start if you tried hard enough untils I went racing on my 180 mile trip, I got there and it was the worst yet, I couldnt hold 1200 rpms brake standing it woudl bog and stall, then leavign the line it did it for a second and after lettign off and on it wsaa fine till 3000 rpms or so then back again.... ok one question, what would you guys recommend for plugs? I read your supposed to start gapping at .050 and work your way up, is this correct? thanks, Tommy
 
I like 50-55 thou with the Bosch ignition module (kind of like the TFI coil/GM module setup). Even mapping your present advance would be interesting.

Do you run a fuel pressure gauge? Just curious. What about vacuum? Also, what happens if you bring the RPM up in neutral rather than stalling it?
 
no gauges, and in neutral it was fine, it would only do it under a load, and I figured out that it still bogs/stalls while turning, I am guessing float level, is it possible to have it et too high? how can you check, I also installed my nitrophfdbvag float and the jet extensions, I dont know if its flooding, or runnign out of fuel, I made aleft 2 days ago and it stalled after I floored it, then it took a good minute to get it to restart, and I could smell gas so I am thinkign its flooding... any ideas?
 
The fuel pressure gauge may tell you what's happening there with the turning bit. Could be borderline too high. A bypass regulator is a beautiful thing, if a little dear.

Also by inference you are talking about turning at low RPM, and bringing the revs up as you exit the turn. This is similar to the bogging under load. If you were watching vacuum it might be dropping to almost zero at these points of non-responsiveness.

The cam plus its advance may be causing you to have inadequate HP at these lower speeds as suited to the stock trans and rear gears. Both a stall converter and higher gears (just a shade) could get you back into the zone of best results. A manual trans will in this sense make some difference but not all of it.

Plus you could baseline your dizzy and even recurve it yourself.

Anyway, there's some thoughts for the day!
 
ledition":1p8dylub said:
What kind of problems were you having? Mine is still stalling under light acceleration and will die if I don't let off the pedal, but its fine when I open it up. Already changed the ignition wires, distributor, spark plugs, fuel pump, filter and I added an inline fuel pressure gauge (6.5 - 7psi). The only thing left is the carb, but I just don't understand it, it all worked fine on the old engine. Question? anyone know if the jets are marked (i'm sure they are) with the size? I can't find any documentation on what size jets I have so I'll have to take it apart and look at them.

Sorry about all that. I'm really happy that you figured yours out, and I hope I can be just as happy when mines all done!!. You should do better at the track now!
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my dad wants to know what your timing is set at, he said if its too far advanced itll do that.
 
I had it set at about 14btdc and it was doing it, then I advanced it a little more to see if that helped and it didn't. I haven't tried taking it below 14 yet. Might try that tomorrow. Otherwise I am going to take apart the carb to find out what size jets I have in there and get some larger ones before everything closes this weekend.
 
I installed one I purchesed on e-bay and as soon as I let off the key I loose all power to the coil........any ideas?also please let me know how you hooked yours up? thanks, Gary
 
By trial & error if you are running over 5# of fuel pressure on a holley using the nitrophyl float you will have flooding conditions.

Just discovered this when I installed a carb I had put this float in.

Swap back to the brass float & remove the jet extensions & you will be fine. The brass float has a longer arm from needle & seat to the float than the nitrophyl float thus will tolerate up to 8# of fuel pressure.

Put in the brass float, set the level so the fuel is right at the bottom of the sight hole.

On the 500 carb Jet down to 68 main jets & install a .010 piece of wire in each pvcr hole below the power valve. This will lean you out according to my innovate LM-1 air fuel tester. After doing this my engine is crisp & responsive. plus giving me much better fuel miliage. William
 
garysdiscountdeals":253d4jrw said:
I installed one I purchesed on e-bay and as soon as I let off the key I loose all power to the coil........any ideas?also please let me know how you hooked yours up? thanks, Gary
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Sounds like you are only getting power from the starter relay (aka solenoid) during cranking. You also need power from the ignition switch in "run" mode (not cranking). I don't have a schematic for your car so not much help, sorry.
Joe
 
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