Mustang 1980 6L 200ci Cylinder head question

Howdy back Bert:

Where are you located? I'm guessing not in the USA. How many miles on your car? You would be wise to do a compression check as part of your engine assessment. It is good to have an idea of your engines condition before you start to change things.

You've already tackled a lot of hard, dirty fix-ups. Good going. Your car sure looks nice. Check and report the codes on the door frame. We can help you decode it.

Keep it coming. And good luck at the registration office.

Adios, David
 
1981Ghia":9hqtg7ef said:
Wow David thanks for the huge post! I realy loved reading it! :) I have the original C4 transmission.
Since 1998 i was crazy about Mustangs, but i did not have the money to buy a 1964-1969. (still don't). But last month i saw a Ford Capri for sale. When i was looking for the price etc i saw 2 ford Mustang's this was a 1981 cobralook 2.3 turbo and a 2.3 hatchback of 1981 also, in the man's backyard so i also asked the price for those 2 mustangs. He told me 1500€ approx 2000$ for the 3 of them. But i only saw 2. And than he told me he had one kept aside. So i asked to take a look, and there she was, a 1980 Mustang Ghia with 6L 3.3. He told me he would like to receive 650$/car. But i only bought the one i liked the most and the one that also was in best shape. So i bought the car but NOTHING worked. The car hasn't been driving since 1992. Now after 1,5 month of hard work and lots of search on google i finally got the car running again! So i changed the oil+filter, refilled the transmission fluid, i repaired and honed all of the brakes (they were frozen by the rust). When i opened up the trunk i found a little treasure: i found 2 NEW rear shocks so i replaced them immediatly! I reshaped the nose. It was bend because no mechanics worked and the idiots couldn't find a better way to move it to just take another car and place it against the front bumper and push em until he was in the right spot :bang:. The hood wouldn't even close anymore!!!. So i reshaped it and now everything seems back to the original. Than another problem was the sunroof: is was totaly rusted and could not be repaired so i replaced it with a sunroof from a donor car. I also took out the carpet because it was VERY wet and rotten! And also the headlinder was coming loose + the backing board was wet and rotten. Now i'm polishing my rims (wolfrace anno 1970).
So that will be it... i hope i did not forget anything :p. I'm glad i can tell some ppl this story b'cause here they don't seem to care about it a lot :( .
And today i went to the uhm how do you call it: the place to check if your car is street legal... + to the insurance! So i will be driving my Mustang soon! This will not be my daily car!! Only for the (sunny) weekends and meetings.

Thanks a lot for listening!!
Click to expand...

The car is looking good, keep up the good work!

That black one with the cowl induction hood could be sharp looking too.
 
bucfan1234":2di6g4sv said:
1981Ghia":2di6g4sv said:
Wow David thanks for the huge post! I realy loved reading it! :) I have the original C4 transmission.
Since 1998 i was crazy about Mustangs, but i did not have the money to buy a 1964-1969. (still don't). But last month i saw a Ford Capri for sale. When i was looking for the price etc i saw 2 ford Mustang's this was a 1981 cobralook 2.3 turbo and a 2.3 hatchback of 1981 also, in the man's backyard so i also asked the price for those 2 mustangs. He told me 1500€ approx 2000$ for the 3 of them. But i only saw 2. And than he told me he had one kept aside. So i asked to take a look, and there she was, a 1980 Mustang Ghia with 6L 3.3. He told me he would like to receive 650$/car. But i only bought the one i liked the most and the one that also was in best shape. So i bought the car but NOTHING worked. The car hasn't been driving since 1992. Now after 1,5 month of hard work and lots of search on google i finally got the car running again! So i changed the oil+filter, refilled the transmission fluid, i repaired and honed all of the brakes (they were frozen by the rust). When i opened up the trunk i found a little treasure: i found 2 NEW rear shocks so i replaced them immediatly! I reshaped the nose. It was bend because no mechanics worked and the idiots couldn't find a better way to move it to just take another car and place it against the front bumper and push em until he was in the right spot :bang:. The hood wouldn't even close anymore!!!. So i reshaped it and now everything seems back to the original. Than another problem was the sunroof: is was totaly rusted and could not be repaired so i replaced it with a sunroof from a donor car. I also took out the carpet because it was VERY wet and rotten! And also the headlinder was coming loose + the backing board was wet and rotten. Now i'm polishing my rims (wolfrace anno 1970).
So that will be it... i hope i did not forget anything :p. I'm glad i can tell some ppl this story b'cause here they don't seem to care about it a lot :( .
And today i went to the uhm how do you call it: the place to check if your car is street legal... + to the insurance! So i will be driving my Mustang soon! This will not be my daily car!! Only for the (sunny) weekends and meetings.

Thanks a lot for listening!!
Click to expand...

The car is looking good, keep up the good work!

That black one with the cowl induction hood could be sharp looking too.
Click to expand...

Yeah it looks great i know... but the condition about that car is VERY bad! It used to be orange! And the roof was just like cardboard!
 
CZLN6":2ym2cijg said:
Howdy back Bert:

Where are you located? I'm guessing not in the USA. How many miles on your car? You would be wise to do a compression check as part of your engine assessment. It is good to have an idea of your engines condition before you start to change things.

You've already tackled a lot of hard, dirty fix-ups. Good going. Your car sure looks nice. Check and report the codes on the door frame. We can help you decode it.

Keep it coming. And good luck at the registration office.

Adios, David
Click to expand...
I am located in Belgium near Tienen. Gotta love the choclat (color) and the french fries ;).
The car has now (1)28605km.
Those codes are not readable anymore :(. The plastic seal has also been void. :( But maybe you can do something with this:
0F04B110290 H 8N 90
66H FZ 24H 8 V A7B
It was pressed into a metal plate attached to my conform documentation.

Greetings
 
Vin brakes down as
0 = 1980
F = Dearborn, Michigan Assembly plant
04 = Ghia Coupe body style
B = 6-Cyl (200ci) 3.3L 1-bbl 8.6:1 91hp 4000rpm 160ft-lb 1600rpm
110290 = the sequential build number
Other codes
8N color = Dark Cordovan Metallic
66H =Coupe Ghia 23,647 were made in 1980 with this body and trim style.
The Standard Ghia Coupe ... had a base price $5,823 your has optional equipment so would have cost more.
 
If the compression is good maybe the slightly larger carb from the 250 and high lift rockers would work if looking for a mild increase. Add a performance coil and spiro wires also. May have enough left over for headers and the Falcon Performance Manual.
Is there enough room for a 2v carb and adapter on this Mustang?
 
I have a dual exhast on my 82 3.3 hatch. Makes no difference to the sound, just makes it look like a 5.0 from the back.

The best first option is to buy classic inlines head and a 2-bbl Holley 350 and a 264 cam. That will give you about 150 hp with the stock exhast. The catalytic converters are only a problem when old and choked up with lead. Then add the Sierra /Scorpio A4LD gearbox to the Bordeaux C3 bellhousing, and fit 3.45:1 gears.

See viewtopic.php?f=76&t=35455&p=258007#p258007


Second option is to leave head stock and add a Weber 38 DGAS carb found in the Granada/Capri/Renault R30 with 2.5 and 3.0 liter V6's. Or the Australian Ford Falcon XE/XF Weber ADM 34, which is just a Euro Fiat Argenta/132 2.0 liter carb, or the 32/36 DGAV from the Taunus/Cortina/Capri

Either is a great carb, direct bolt on with the right adaptor. They range from 230 to 320 cfm rated as a per normal 1 and 2-barrel standards.

They add the power lacking with the stock emmissions 185 cfm carb. They provide better wide open throttle air flow, better part throttle economy.

The head could use removal, and some method of raising the compression to 9.2:1, and doing the mods to the improve air flow will yield got improvements.

Third option is to see 80stang's website on http://www.ponikorjaamo.com/ti80/

The Finland guy on this website who has white 1980 Mustang Notch ( a Euro T5) with an 81.5kw or (114 hp) 3.3, not a problem to do with a few modifcations.


See his GEN 1 engine http://www.ponikorjaamo.com/ti80/gen1.htm
 
Are there high lift rockers out of another vehicle that we could mod on the cheap? The price of some of the aftermarket sets is far out of my reach right now.
 
The 1.6 adjustable rocker that Mike sells came from another engine, just need to find out which one.
 
1981Ghia":32hoer2f said:
so this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-32 ... ccessories
Would be a good choice to make when wanting to get a LITTLE bit more hp?
Ofc i will need to get the adapter plate from Weber.
Click to expand...

Hi Bert, I believe that would be the correct one :?: Not 100% sure because I've not done that modification, but I do know the 32/36 users have reported improvement in power as mentioned and yet still economical mpg. I might consider that modification myself in the future for the easiest bolt on power increase and still be efficienty. Hopefully someone more familiar with the 32/36 swap will reply. I think a place called Stovebolt also sells parts and carburetor for the swap, but do not know about international shipping.

EDIT: aka Langdon's Stovebolt...they have adapters but for clearance and better pefromance I believe direct mount is preferred if possible.
http://stoveboltengineco.com/index.php/ ... ct=1681888

Have you seen jdn's thread
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62804
Looks like the start of a Netherlands/Dutch contingency/club :mrgreen: :thumbup: Good luck!

rocklord":32hoer2f said:
The 1.6 adjustable rocker that Mike sells came from another engine, just need to find out which one.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about that myself Dan, if you track something down or if I"m able to I hope someone will post the info here.
Cheers!
PS Probably sounds crazy (thus the avatar..'sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't'), but the idea of 'bolt on'/'bolt off' mild hp peformance is appealing...$122 a barrel and it's not even peak summer seems like $5/gal is in our not too distant future :(
 
1981Ghia":20e7gjgd said:
Hello,

so this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-32 ... ccessories
Would be a good choice to make when wanting to get a LITTLE bit more hp?
Ofc i will need to get the adapter plate from Weber.

Greetings Bert
Click to expand...


Yes, that's it.

There is a US version called the Holley Weber 5200 and 6500 series , made from 1970-1985 for Pintos, Fiestas, Mustangs, Escorts, Vegas and Mopar k-car/Horizons which is the same but has the primary and secondary barrels swapped, and the choke on the other side. The Stovebolt and Classic Inlines and Clifford adapters fit it, they have the same bolt spacing.

The Belgian/ French Bordeuax C3 automatic used a rod operated kickdown cable and it fits the 1946 Holley 1-bbl, so it should all bolt up simply.

As for the gearing, 2.79:1 gears are okay, but since a Sierra A4LD gearbox is so cheap and just an elongated electronic C3 any way, you could wack in some Bronco 2/Ranger 4-cyl 3.73 or 3.55 or Mustang 2.3 3.45 gears, and get a perfectly geared car.
 
I used the HW 5200 fro Stovebolt along with his adapter, which I drilled to mount the carb perpendicular to the block so I could fab up a linkage connected to the stock arm. I am happy with the set up, and with the service from stovebolt.
 
All of the pre 1983 Mustangs missed out on a return line, so a US Holley Weber 5200 might be easier to hook up. Just depends on if you use an electric or water heated choke, as depending on the adaptor, you might not have enough space to fit it, so please use your own judgement. Either the Euro or US carb will work out okay.
 
don't know bar, but the conversion shows 159 psi min and 188 psi max

I would recomend getting your own compression tester, they're only $15, and do a wet/dry test.

for a wet dry test you run the engine to operation temp, do the compresion test (dry), then right after you add a table soon of oil to get your wet test. this way you have 2 readings for all cyls. this will tell us what direction you want to start looking at.

IMO I think you have a strong engine. I do worry about cyl #2 being so high, but it might be part of the conversion.

:thumbup: for your current compression test.
 
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