Mustang with A/C
- Thread starter 1966_l6
- Start date
Seems like a common request. Due to the extremely detailed info on this board, the Advanced search engine on the top right of the board is always the best option. Take it slowly, and you'll get every morsel of info on this subject
About 2003, one member here with a 2V headed T-code 65 GT replica had the same modifications as Mike suggests in the Classic Inline Technical pages (Click Fordsix moniker top left, and follow your nose).
see also the post called FSPP Header AC Bracket modification problems, by Guest, formerly Jimbo65. Its in this 144-250 "Small Block" Six Performance section. All his very accurate computer drawn links are dead though.
Like it is with the Pacemaker headers Mike sells, a York or Selectaire compressor on the true right of the header needs to be moved out a few inches in most cases. This can be done by just adding welded plates about 1/2" plus two 1/4" laps for about 1.75" to move the compressor out on its hanger.
Sometimes the suction line needs to be extended.
In most cases, that should do the trick.
I keep a vast array of old photos, but work 85 hrs a week so don't have much time to go through my old CD's and upload them to photobucket or email. I'll see what I can do, but I got reports to write for my roading job for the next two days, then im on night shift again.
About 2003, one member here with a 2V headed T-code 65 GT replica had the same modifications as Mike suggests in the Classic Inline Technical pages (Click Fordsix moniker top left, and follow your nose).
see also the post called FSPP Header AC Bracket modification problems, by Guest, formerly Jimbo65. Its in this 144-250 "Small Block" Six Performance section. All his very accurate computer drawn links are dead though.
Like it is with the Pacemaker headers Mike sells, a York or Selectaire compressor on the true right of the header needs to be moved out a few inches in most cases. This can be done by just adding welded plates about 1/2" plus two 1/4" laps for about 1.75" to move the compressor out on its hanger.
Sometimes the suction line needs to be extended.
In most cases, that should do the trick.
I keep a vast array of old photos, but work 85 hrs a week so don't have much time to go through my old CD's and upload them to photobucket or email. I'll see what I can do, but I got reports to write for my roading job for the next two days, then im on night shift again.
yup that's what I had to do, took my ac/alt braket to a machine shop and for $40 they added 1.25 inches to the side, it don't touch but it sure is close, I'm thinking maybe next time I have it down I'll take it off and have those cut off and go 1.75 inches, warning thought, I want to move it up .25 inch when it goes out to 1.75 as the belt currently on there is one of the smallest and it's tight but I think it should be tighter and if I do tighten it it will touch the header. and the alt bracket they mention, I found it but had to take a drill to the center of it to accept the 3/8 bolt that I had so I can move the alt up and down like it should.
I first started with AC then added the header.
I first started with AC then added the header.
8) something to think about, i saw a rat rod a couple of weeks ago with a tiny alternator mounted. when i talked to the owner he said it came from a kubota tractor engine, and it put out 60 amps. he mounted it on a chrysler slant six, but it might be a good choice for our sixes as well, especially with a/c and headers. just a thought.
oh and by tiny, i mean about 1/4 the size of a stock ford alternator.
oh and by tiny, i mean about 1/4 the size of a stock ford alternator.
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