My 1960 Ranchero restoration plans

[xrwagon]

What you have planned sounds good, the car and the mods, you can get in my understanding up to a certain amount of power for a reasonable amount, its the past this that adds up. My wagon with its 200 7main, is yet uncammed, no head work and unopened, but with a few little mods i have dropped from a first time out 13.4 to a flat 12, hopefully 11’s next. I have some off the shelf extractors that have been ported and a DUI ignition, so basic bolton’s. Last year between rounds i spent a whopping $18 bucks doing a tune. Then over christmas, new plugs, oil, and a new battery and lead, that was under $180. This year i got the DUI, paid 300, was new with leads basically. Spent 120 installing and doing some wiring and relays. My other mod was the collector and a larger pipe on the extractors exit. That was 80 bucks. Could have saved more if i did some of the work myself. I got a quote for some custom made extractors, the price was $2480 and that was in mild steel and with no protective coatings, so you can see if you have more money than brains and want 3 more hp in theory it can get ugly. I am racing in 2 weeks time and hoping a little stock carby tuning will result in a 11 sec eighth mile pass. The xk170 falcon driver i have met and spoken to before, good nice bloke, has raced that falcon next to the drag strip i go to. Its impressive.

 

[MPGmustang]

handyman- I like your future upgrades. keeping it simple is the MOST important. the 200 with the t-5, is probably cam'd. those that go through the trouble put alot into them. I would honestly run with that as is, possible taking the timing cover off and see if it's a dual timing chain. if so, we might be able to find out what cam is in there.

since it's not on the car, I would be interested on what cam is in there. so a degree wheel and kit would be the best way to go. the knowledge you gather about that 200ci will help you later diagnose issues. and you can do this just by taking the rockers off, using the pushrods and a dial indicator on crank and push rod to see lift, and 'duration' @ .050 lift. with those number we can let you know what cam you have, you'll need that for both intake and exhaust. all with the head still on the motor.

Grats on the score, many here are jealous that you have a leg up on on boosting your performance already.

for the t-5 you'll need a new crossmember, and need to shorten your drive shaft. also, when swapping the rear axle, you'll have to change your drive shaft again so it can fit the rear axle. IIWIYS I would get all the part together, axle included. then take my time on doing it right once, the whole drive train. your car runs and drives now, so keep it that way. once you have everything sorted out, do it all at once, you won't regret taking your time to do it right, knowing ever part along the way.


for tools, I recommend getting a air hammer and a pickle fork for that hammer. it will help with ALL ball joints and will SAVE HOURS and possibly DAYS taking apart the old stuff.

Where are you located, if in AZ I'll be happy to lend a hand.

 

[Hanhyman]

The engine has a lot of clifford products, 32/36 carb kit w/port divider. The guy I bought it off of, wasn't at all interested in the 6, he said that the guy did some work is all I know, but as stated, it is a lot of work to do the conversion, and I have my suspicions that it was worked a bit. I am going to order the CI degree wheel kit as soon as I can afford it, as I am curious as to what type of stick is in there too, and want to learn how to degree a cam as well. As far as my T5, the guyt I bought the car from put in a floor shifter, and I have measured, and the shifter on the T5 will be in the exact location as my current 3 speed shifter, the shifter does not interfere with my bench seat, would I still have to do the front shift conversion? I have heard that there is something unique about the 1960 frame that may necessitate a front shift. I like you advice on taking my time and doing it right the first time. I have a few lines on an 8" rear end, but again will have to wait to get some $$$$$$. I would love to have some experienced help, but alas, I am in Colorado. Possibly moving to Sacramento, or the South within a year.

 

[chad]

"...I am in Colorado..."
that does not preclude several locals who would enjoy stopping over to lend expertise. That's what I use the net for - going national/world-wide to find neighborhood folk!

Use the 'chero network (I've not found one specifically for the '60 - '65 but there's plenty folk on there w/that model), falcons, mustangs, this one, old ford's, hot rods and every-other 'net presence' you can think of to learn about ur rig and post about your interest on showin off/getting help on this vehicle. You are close to Denver and I know folk from there (Castle Rock) just from doing this type of effort for my bronk. Met a guy from Springfield, MA (1/2 hr away from me) off this site last wk...

now, "moving to Cal. or "the South" in a yr." ... it seems that makes it difficult to collect parts (w/o puttin them right on the rig for space consolidation, if nothing else, but it's a DD so that's the goal anyway).

 

[Hanhyman]

I have been checking out the 1960 Holman & Moody Ford Falcon, and am intrigued with some of the components, and would like to adapt a few of them to my project. I like their use of 14" wheels with the original Dog Dish hubcaps, as forgive me, but I like their looks, and this will afford a wider range of available tires. I also like how they've beefed up the suspension like adding a larger sway bar, and boxing the lower control arms. I also like the look of the traction bars. I like the exhaust, and where the pipe dumps out ahead of the passenger side rear wheel but am going to go with a muffler so I don't piss off the neighborhood.