My 1960 Ranchero restoration plans

Hanhyman

New member
I bought my 1960 Ford Ranchero in March of 2012, had no intention of obtaining such a vehicle, as I was without, and just looking for basic transportation. I kept coming back to the Ranchero. After 3 attempts to buy a used Toyota pickup, I relented and called the seller. It was a good 60 miles from where I lived, and had to arrange several bus excursions to get to the car, which pretty much meant I was going to buy it regardless. The car was, and still is a fixer upper, but the body is straight, as is the frame, there are very few dents, and the drive train is solid, all in all a steal for $1200.00.

The car is slammed to the weeds, lowered 4 inches; this does detract from its daily driving attributes, so it will eventually be raised 2 inches, so it will be much more capable of a car. It came with a 1964 200ci inline 6 from a Ford Fairlane, it only has 4 main bearings though, not the more desired 7 main bearings that were standard starting in 1965, and have the whole bottom end statically and dynamically balanced and a 3-speed on the floor, and the stock 6.75” rear end with 3.89 gears.

My plans for the car are to install a larger “Log” cylinder head I got off a 1969 Mustang; with 1.75 intake/1.46 exhaust valves; I will eventually get a 1969 block as well. I am going to have some cylinder head work done to make the engine breathe better, install a mild 264/264 110H cam, 1.5 adjustable rocker arms, electronic ignition, most likely a D.U.I. setup, dual timing chain, headers and exhaust system, I am also going to install a weber 32/36 progressive 2 barrel carb with a 2-1 adapter, and raise the compression ratio to about 9.3:1. I am also planning to install a T-5 transmission out of a Mustang GT, and an 8” rear end with 3.55 gears. My goal for this vehicle is to make it perform like a modern car with all of the character and styling of a 1960’s auto, as well as being a daily driver.

I plan on using the original 13” rims for at least 1 set of tires, as I like the look of the hubcaps, I plan on upgrading to 15” wheels with torq thrust rims and 205/60r15 tires and disc brakes up front.

I have already purchased, new tie rods, new ball joints, center link, spring perch, spring insulators, U-bolts, upper and lower control arms, and 4 new KYB shocks. I also bought 4 new brake drums, wheel cylinders, brake lines, master cylinder, hoses, and all of the hardware. I just need to get new coil springs (2” lower than stock)and 2” lowering blocks for the rear am waiting for the weather to get nicer to install it all, then it will ride like a new car.

I am a total newbie, but have learned a lot from reading this forum, as well as the Falcon performance handbook.
 
Scratch head.

Lets see. :unsure:

Thats the Chero based on the The Foul Yes U Can platform. :wrench:


You can get 205 hp from a 500 cfm 2-bbl 3.3.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjQJ8btRbLY

You can get 280 hp from a four bearing 200 engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QTgb4knAuI

Argentina gets 165 mph and 390 hp from there 2-bbl Weber carbed 183 cubic inch racers with a seven bearing crank in TC 3000.

Kelly and Will McLearran's 1963 falcon gets over 450 hp with a turbo 250
http://www.carcraft.com/featuredvehicle ... on_futura/
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured ... on_futura/
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarti ... r_mustang/

Here's what Aussies did to there's. If the US Falcon was a crash build 18 month program to make the ultimate throw away car, why are there so many around, and why does the latest Aussie Falcon pickup still use basic 1960 tooling from this video? Because its Ford Tough in design and building!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-q45n19XLM


Don't forget what that little 4.08" bore spacing six can do with 50 yrs of development, twin cams, 24 valves, proper breathing and a hair dryer. The crank and block uses the basic 1960 hard dimensions with a lot more counterweights, bearing sizes is way up and there's more metal, but at 1000 to 1163 hp, you get an idea of how smart and how much latent talent the Dearborn engineers that created the XK engine had.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUWCo3lDjH8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2eWHNSaSZU
 
The '77-'83 head is the one you're after, it has the larger valves and hardened seats, the '69 has the larger log but the 1.65" intake valve. The '80-'83 Head has the largest log.
 
That Ranchero is one of my favorite vehicles and the front disc is a good mod for drivability, one of the best upgrades on my Bronco. You got a pretty good deal on that it sounds like. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the replies; I am open to any advice possible.

I know from reading all of the posts that the 1978-83 head is the one to get, but I already have the 69’ head, it does have the larger bore, and the Schjeldahl brothers say that the 69 head would be good for upgrades. I have found a machinist who will increase valve sizes to 1.75/1.46, as well as doing everything listed in the Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK, less the 2v conversion for $550. I feel that this will meet all of my needs at least for the moment. The car is so anemic now that virtually anything would be a performance upgrade, as it has the small log head and an unknown Holley (I haven’t been able to get the numbers to see if it is a 1904, 08 40 it has a metal not a glass bowl.)

I don’t really need 205hp right now(half would be fine over what I have now), as I have new, albeit original 9” drum brakes on the car, and want to get my money’s worth out of those before I move up to discs. I like the idea of the weber progressive, as I would only be using 1 barrel most of the time, and have the secondaries kick in as needed. I intend to drive this car every day, so it will be in traffic, and want it to behave accordingly. From what I have read on the posts, I am not going to do the 2v conversion, as I agree that the money would be better spent on the CI al head with a Holley 600.

Question for those in the know: Is the 4 main worth keeping, or should I get a 7 main block, I don’t intend to drag race the car, although I may do a few runs to see what it will do.

Those videos are amazing, I can’t believe how well that 61 falcon handles that course, and 280hp out of a 170. Wow.
Over 1000hp out of the Aussie inline is mind blowing.

Like I said in my original post, I am a newbie, this is my first build, I am a sponge, and am soaking up all this info, digesting it, and hopefully put it into action. Money is my limiting factor, what else is new huh?
I really appreciate all of the advice, and look forward to more.

BTW, how do I add a picture and what my vehicle is to my account?
 
Don't fret the four main issue for some time. Maybe update that down the line, but I put nearly 20k on my fourmain engine driving like an ass some of the time.

And that was with my machinist lying and saying I didn't need a line bore when it really did. (Found out after removing the engine to freshen up for my aluminium head judging by the marks on my bearings.)
 
Congrats on obtainin da wheels. No more buss!

Sounds like fun, ur at a great place in the process, enjoy that and the vehicle!
Thanks for including me.

I can't tell from ur post - R U staying lower than stock w/the suspension? but
just coming up some? Y not get back to stock so U can mod to (minor) pro-
formance level (I'm widja on da "money thing").

oop, OK. Reread: "back up, 1/2 way"... only. For the looks? performance? economy?
I'm curious - why not stock? Wanna learn.
luv the early 60s (round body, smaller 'door dent', lill chrome...)!
 
Thanks for reading my post
Chad. I am trying to upload a picture of my beast, it looks like a rat rod slammed to the weeds with a 4" drop. I want to raise it up 2 inches, mostly for looks. I have bought all new suspension parts, and will put them on once the weather improves here in Denver. I basically just like the looks of a slightly lowered vehicle. Going with 2" lower coil springs up front, with lowering blocks in the rear, at least until I can afford new 2" lower leaf springs. I am also going to stick with the 13" stock wheels, for 1 set of tires, then I should be able to afford a front disc conversion to 5 lug, and put on some 15" torq thrust wheels and 205/60r15 tires, as they are the same height as the 185/80r13 for a plus 2 concversion. Like I said, I hope to post a picture of it, as well as keeping everyone up to date on the restoration. Thanks again for looking.
 
Just something to consider- you could modify your existing head for a carb off a 250 and get a Pertronix module that might make it less sluggish than it is then take your time building the new engine. If your current block will accept a DSII that is another option as a step to a DUI. These would be low cost mods if you get good deals.
 
Hanhyman":2jneyivf said:
Thanks for reading my posy Chad... Like I said, I hope to post a picture of it, as well as keeping everyone up to date on the restoration. Thanks again for looking.

Yeah, glad to see one off the Left coast (only place I've ever seen 1). There's several around here I have not trecked out to see (NH, Hudson Valley). Can't wait 4 the eye candy when U post pic...

Minimal & simple updates for today's traffic and lifestyle are few and simple. Take the advice on ele. ignition. The frnt end and brakes 1st seem like a reasoned approach...
 
Man it was an awesome weekend, as I scored an engine and transmission. One man’s trash is truly another man’s treasure. I a 1978 3.3l engine that was connected to a T-5 transmission, it has a Weber 32/36 with a Clifford adapter, a Clifford port divider, and a DS-II distributor with GM module. The tranny is a 1993 Cobra model, code 1352-218, rated for 310 ft. lbs. of torque and the desired gear ratio’s 3.35 (1) 3.35, (2) 1.99, (3) 1.33 (4) 1 (5) .68, it was built by someone like us, then sold. The guy I bought it from wanted a 302 and C6, so the 6 and T-5 were yanked in favor of the V-8, my gain. The engine has had some headwork done, but since the guy wanted a V-8, he didn’t really pay attention to all of the upgrades made to the 6, so I do not know if the exhaust valves were enlarged, or what the compression ratio is. I still need a few bits and pieces before I get it installed into my 60 Ranchero but it was if it was built for me, it’s just about everything I was planning on doing anyways.
Block is coded D8BE-6015CD,
Head is coded C7BE-6090-AB, and
Transmission 1352-218
Whoo Hoo!
 
You did good. Parts are around sometimes when not looking. How did you find out about this one?
 
I make a point to check craigslist and ebay everyday, and as luck would have it, the stars aligned, and I recieved a bonus at work I was not expecting, just as I motor and trans became available. Next up is an 8" rear end with 3.55 gears. My advice is to just keep looking, and when something comes up, snag it.
 
I 4get, R U in the Denver area?

"Play it forward". I'm sure some 1 there will want the '64 200 & other parts U have. (or less likely, even on our "4sale" forum).

Hemmings (Motor News) is a hard copy national listing source (more for restorers not moders. like us), I think & the rear end (when U get another bonus) along with the prts you've listed as lookin to 'offload' - will do some 1 some good if they find them listed there (or Clist, like you've found, but less likely). Hate to see this stuff trashed or sold for weight...
 
["Play it forward". I'm sure some 1 there will want the '64 200 & other parts U have. (or less likely, even on our "4sale" forum). ]

I'm going to try and sell everything I take out!!!
 
Have all the parts to do a complete brake job, couldn't afford to go disc right now, but I figure new is new. Drums, master cylinder, shoes, wheel cylinder, brake hoses, stainless steel brake lines plus all the hardware. Also have all the front end parts, tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, centerlink, idler arm, and all 4 shocks. I hope to order my new 2" lower springs, this week, so when done, should roll like it did off of the assembly line. Can't wait. Then I will install the New motor and t-5. I'll keep you posted.
 
Back
Top