My 1st dyno tests

[MPGmustang]

so first off, when your about to run your car a few tips that i thought of too late

what i have, 68 200ci, c4, 1100v, 2.25-2.5inch exhaust.

1. tune it to your best performance, BEFORE hand.
2. count where you want to try your gas/air ratio adjustments
3. don't leave your e-brake on for your 1st 4 pulls...
4. tune the carb out of gear so to get your nice idle

So since i'm about to drop in a t-5 i decided to run down and do a few pulls. I didn't take time to tune my car properly and i wish i did, i woudn't have wasted so much time. one thing i pulled was the e-brake with it off i found an additional 20 horses. the airfilter with the K&N filter adds about 3-5 horses.

but enough of what i found out today lets look at my results

in 3rd gear.
best all around pull
max hp - 67.175 @ 3440rpm
max torque - 114.973 @ 2880rpm

max numbers from all pulls
max HP - 67.211 @ 3495rpm
max torque - 115.025 @ 2820rpm

in 2nd gear
best all around pull
max hp - 68.236 @ 3535rpm
max torque - 116.87 @ 2600rpm

best is the best best all around pull.

my air/fuel ratio they said was way too lean, roughly 13 lowest (max torque) up to 15.5 ish i reached max hp @ 14.9, any way to make it a little more rich at higher rpm but still keep it lean at low rpm? I have a new 1100v. i'd like to try my old holley 1940 carb some day when i have cash/time to burn.

with my c4 tranny they said the torque converter could be loosened alittle and it might help with hp but change torque, i'm gettting rid of it anyways so what's the point....

well fun experience i'll post more numbers after i get my t5 in and tested for a real area of where to improve but breathing wise i think it's the carb that's restricting me.

only mods that i have installed so far, 1100v and a 2.25-2.5inch exhaust w/ stock quiet muffler.
mods i'll add, t5 tranny, DUI, maybe 1.65 rockers.

Thanks,
Richard

Edit: my second Dyno run with the t-5 is here http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62720

 

[Ronbo]

E-brake on Thanks for sharing that one! I did that recently, got done running and was still a little out of my head, took off, by the time I got to the house it was stinking pretty bad. Got out and heard sizzling noises, rear drums probably would have been glowing if I went a little further.

 

[Falcon Ranch]

This is a great story!...some how I thought you might pull a little more power then you did...I wander what mine would pull?...how much did the shop charge for the dyno session?

 

[MPGmustang]

I went to a cheap shop as i only wanted a rough area of what my torque and hp are, a ballpark shop. they charged $65 for the half hour, wasted 15mins with my e-brake. but all in all i think i have a decent idea of where my engine is. next week is my t-5 swap in... still have questions before i drop it in tho...

when my t-5 is in, i'll go to Mike's dyno and pay the $120 for 1hr.
if my wallet ever recovers. i even hope to have both carbs tuned and ready to go, bolt on application/test and i'll obviously go for the more power (i bet it's the holley 1940) but i'm sure the 1100v gets better gas mileage. i'm tempted to go to a double barrel carb as i'm sure it can give more gas and not be so lean, they said that i want 10:1 gas/air while excelerating, not my current 14:1

Thanks,
Richard

ps the thread is http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55597

 

[Falcon Ranch]

That is really a great dyno deal!...a few months ago, I went to the only shop in Sacramento CA that had a dyno...the guy said it will be $500 buck for an hour and he includes the tuning of the carb

That's freak 'n crazy!!

 

[wallaka]

I know, I was like....you think that's expensive? LOL

 

[Ronbo]

Yeah, the $500 figure is more what I thought it would cost too. Thats a cheap engine build right there!

 

[MPGmustang]

okay since it' hasn't been the same since the dyno i'll post here first...

i have no power accelerating, grandpa passed me trying to get to 30mph... i found out that if i rev the engine before take off it helps but not alot... when cold "bat out of hell" come to mind but not quite... i know my torque converter was slipping before but could this be related to the recent dyno test with the e-brake on?

i'm droping the c4 and putting in a t5 this week just want to make sure that it's not the engine , how can i tell?

engine idles very smoothly, revs perfectly in nuetral.... but is "bogged" down when accelerating at low speeds... higher speeds it wakes up and desides to go again... but when at a stop again it doesn't want to go... i tried high rpm but just makes the accel worse than before.... i found that if i rev it then take off it responds better but not to it's previous potential...

so is it the tranny or the engine?

thanks
Richard


edit: clearification

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Richard and All:

I'd suggest that you check the gap on your points as part of an initial engine check up. It sounds like they may have closed up with time and wear.

Were all of your dyno pulls at Wide Open Throttle (WOT)? If so the only fuel circuit to tune is the main jet. What number jet is in it now? What was your initial advance setting? Did you verify that your carb was at wide open/full throttle?

For a MPG dyno test you will have to determine your steady speed rpm and do an A/F reading there.

A dyno run sure helps to take the guess work out of fine tuning.

Keep the info coming.

Adios, David

 

[82F100]

MPG, the next time you go to do dyno runs let AZ Coupe know. He'll check with Extreme Motorsports in Mesa they have worked with us in the past and are good people.

 

[MPGmustang]

Howdy Richard and All:

I'd suggest that you check the gap on your points as part of an initial engine check up. It sounds like they may have closed up with time and wear.

i don't have points, it has been replace with pertronix.... i hope i understood this right...

Were all of your dyno pulls at Wide Open Throttle (WOT)? If so the only fuel circuit to tune is the main jet. What number jet is in it now? What was your initial advance setting? Did you verify that your carb was at wide open/full throttle?

I did not check if the trottle was open, i know my foot was on the floor...
inital timing was 8* so i'm guessing it liked 10*. i don't know the main jet size, what ever comes with the 1100v

For a MPG dyno test you will have to determine your steady speed rpm and do an A/F reading there.

that's good to know... didn't think about that... will try again at mikes dyno

MPG, the next time you go to do dyno runs let AZ Coupe know. He'll check with Extreme Motorsports in Mesa they have worked with us in the past and are good people.

yup they charge 120 for the 1st hour.. i only wanted 30 min's to try stuff.. nothing more, when i get my t5 in i'll take my time at the dyno... i hope Mike or someone that who knows what they are doing could meet me there... so i don't pull with my e-brake on again.

 

[falcon60]

MPG-

Your current lack of acceleration sounds like the torque converter is failing. There is a sprag inside that allows the stator to rotate one way only and multiply torque. If that sprag fails the stator can't do that and the car becomes a slug at low speeds/acceleration. Once up to speed the converter is not needing to multiply torque so the symptoms mostly disappear.

Terry

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back MPG:

Good info. I couldn't find my '68 shop manual, but my '65 calls for an initial advance setting of 12 degrees with an auto trans. I don't know the elevation in your area either. If it is above 3,000 ft. you could probably safely use more. Just a thought.

Adios, David

 

[Falcon Ranch]

I don't think that the problem is tranny related...I think it's timing related...there are many times when you can get a motor to scream bloody murder and thing it's running really great...however, I think he has the timing way too advance...this would explain the powerful engine in neutral but as soon as you put a load on it, it becomes a huge dog...I would be willing to bet, even after the T5 swap, he still has the same problem...could be his dizzy, vacuum advance is leaking?...springs might be weak and at idle when he times the engine, it's already advanced...many things to look at...but definitely not trans related.

 

[MPGmustang]

Okay T5 is in... i did a few checks before i took it out for a drive

Timing I reset it to 11* from 3*
Tranny was the problem, sorta... (i think) not enough tranny fluid
the manifold vacum is good 21 at idle
vacum advance gets up to roughly 10


well since the c4 is out i don't need to worry about it being too low...
This quote comes to mind "some times the correct answer is the most simplest" or something like that...

I have a 68 engine with a 65 distributor..

All Dyno pulls were ran @ WOT

next item will be the DUI, i've wanted one for a while but the t5 distracted me, now that it can't do that any more...

I do have a NASTY exhaust leak.. i'll get headers soon after theDUI but i'm still going to try the "copper" gasket maker..

Hope this helps

THANKS to all of you that inputted comments, or idea's of what it might be...

Richard

 

[rocklord]

If the distributor is from a 65, then it is a Load-o-matic. If this is so, you have a suck a$$ distributor.
Does your 1100 have the valve to control the LOM? If you have the LOM and not the SCV on the carb, you are getting no vacuum advance.

Change it as soon as you can!

 

[MPGmustang]

the distributor is a 65 model with pertronix in, it does get vacum advance i cna see it work with the timing light. but it won't be a 65 model very long now.

Thanks,
Richard

 

[wallaka]

If the distributor is from a 65, then it is a Load-o-matic. If this is so, you have a suck a$$ distributor.
Does your 1100 have the valve to control the LOM? If you have the LOM and not the SCV on the carb, you are getting no vacuum advance.

Change it as soon as you can!

Oh, he'll be getting all kinds of vacuum advance. And retard. And advance. It puts the timing all over the place. Honestly, mine runs better at 14* or so initial and the advance disconnected since I don't have a SCV.