My 66 200 is shot what options do I have?

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Just found out the 200 in my 66 stang is pretty much shot and already has 60 over pistons in it so im guessing its not worth trying to rebuild. I just had the C4 rebuilt. It is the type where the bellhousing is held on with the pump bolts. What vintage stuff will bolt up? I dont care about keeping things orignal just dont want to get into a lot of fab work and would like to use the transmission I just had rebuilt. I know I have read about when the bells and stuff changed but I didnt think I would ever need to know. Guess I will have to do some reading. Im just looking for stockish daily driver type of motor no big plans for anything crazy except maybe EFI.

I see there are 80 over pistons, is that a good idea IF they will clean up at that? Or are things getting a bit thin and close to standard head gaskets at that point.

There seems to be fewer parts for the 250's.
 
You'd really need a 250 or SBF spec C4 behind a 250.

How can you be so sure the motor has no life left?
 
Im going to run it by a machine shop today but looking at the way it was rebuilt last time I dont think its going to be worth putting a lot of money into. A couple of lifter bores are sleeved. Couple of intake valves have newer thick seats on them. All the valve tips are down to the retainers. It looks like the thing has been rebuilt a few times or was really trashed the last time and they just did what had to be done to get it working again. If the head is not trashed I may have that done and throw a cam kit in it and see what happens. Compression was good and it didnt seem to burn oil. With a little luck and a fresh head maybe I can get a few thousand miles out of it while I look for another motor.

What year did the bell change?

What year got the larger log?
 
Double drilled bells came out in '67 model year, so they started casting them in '66. The larger log emerged in 1969 with the "M" suffix on its part number: C9DE-6090-M from memory.

Certainly sounds like that motor has lived a hard life!
 
to use a 250 you need the right mounts and a sbf bell with 157 (zero balance) flywheel (check mid 70's mavericks with 250) and bent8 torque converter, you should be in business. Probably cheaper/easier to find another 200.

-ron
 
So the 200 bell bolt pattern changed on the motors in 67?

Is this the dual version? Either way which years 200's will this fit?
c4.jpg


Sorry for asking the same old questions all the time I have seen this all come up before I just never thought I would be searching for parts so I never paid that close attention. I did a search and found bits all over the place but not the exact info I was looking for. If there is a post somewhere that lists all of this feel free to point me to it.
 
I'm not sure how your motor can have good compression, not use oil, and be considered worn out.

You may be jumping the gun...
 
Maybe this will help clear the confusion: there are three bellhousing bolt patterns. The early "small", the 65-66 and later "big", and the 1980-81 "Big Bell" that is 2/3 rds of the SBF pattern and has a low starter.

The C4 you have uses the "small" pattern. It is found on all 200's except the Big Bell version.

The "big" bolt pattern was added to the block in 65-66, but the small bolt pattern was also retained. The "big" pattern allowed a larger 9" flywheel and clutch to be installed. You can bolt your C4 to a "big" pattern 200 because it still has the small pattern, too. If you have a "big" pattern manual bellhousing, however, you can only bolt it to a post-66 model 200 that has both sets of holes.

Bottom line is, any 200 "except" the BIG BELL 1980-81 E0-BB casting will work for your application.
 
I think I understand the bell thing now. The short block is worn but not worn out yet. Because of the already 60 over pistons I dont think its going to be worth geting it done again since these engines are not that hard to find if you have a little time. I was just looking at what my options may be for some sort of an 'upgrade' as long as I was having to spend some money I thought that maybe I could spend a bit more and end up with a little more power. I will know more after the shop gets a good look at the head.

One guy told me its normal for the #1 bore to wear a bit more than the rest, anyone else ever see this? There is nothing that would catch your fingernail but you can see that it has more wear than the rest.

The guy that helped me pull it apart used a 3M scotch brite pad thing on a grinder to clean the deck. Another guy told be that that is bad because it digs too far into the metal. I will have to spend time getting the crap out of the rings and such. Was planing on turning it upside down and a combo of carb spray and compressed air to flush it all out and then a bit of fresh oil before I turn the crank again.

Thanks for all the info so far and keep it coming!
 
when I pulled my 200 apart, #1 was the only cylinder I had to ream the ridge on to get the pistion out. block was great, within .002 tolorance all cyl's, but I took it .030 anyway, it was stock bore, but had a re ring & bearing in the past. motor only needed a valve job.
 
Is an 81 Granada going to do me any good? I read that the transmission wont bolt up. Is the head any better than my 66?
 
has a better head.

hell I would give you my old 170 if you wanted it (would have to pick it up though) might even be able to work you a deal on my spare 200.
 
Bort62":1suiw6es said:
I'm not sure how your motor can have good compression, not use oil, and be considered worn out.

You may be jumping the gun...

Yup. When I have an engine like that it's a keeper. In fact, it can burn a fair bit oil and still be a keeper if the compression is good.
Joe
 
Have ou tried calling any wrecking yards outside of the metro area? I see tons of yards around princeton area north and they all seem to have old cars-back to the 60's and 70's anyway. I haven't had a chance to start looking for my Granada spindles yet, but I bet there are some floating around somewhere.
There HAS to bee a few 200's floating around- almost no one wants them and they last forever. I'll keep my eye out for one, but I may not be scouring yards until I fix my rusty frame and get the car drivable.
 
S and S engines and LA Engines have rebuilt engines, prices/extended warranty's vary along with policy's,,,not say buy either one,,( friend of mine bought a S and S engine for his jeep and 3 years later still happy),, just saying look at ALL options,, good luck almost at same point and looking at everything myself,,,, you could also hang at local car shows/hang outs where you live to get some info,,, where I live no one knows anything which is weird,,,every other city I've lived in the car guys know solid engine/paint shops/tranny places... good luck
 
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