my new (remanufactured) clutch DIDNT fit....help

A

Anonymous

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I got this. Any reason this clutch WOULDNT fit?

1978-1981 FORD FAIRMONT & MAVERICK 3.3L
1979-1982 MERCURY CAPRI 3.3L
1980-1981 MERCURY COUGAR 3.3L
1978-1983 MERCURY ZEPHYR 3.3L

This Rebuilt Clutch Kit contains a Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, and an Alignment Tool.

The Clutch Disc Measures 9"X1-1/16"X10 Splines

mechanic says it isnt working...says its not engaging or something....could it be because its remanufactured?

I need to figure whether to buy another one or not....very frustrating!


please help...rental is costing me a fortune!!!

chaz
 
Without digging through my receipt box, it sounds like it should work. I have a 1969 mustang drivetrain in mine (bellhousing to yoke) including the linkages. I ended up putting, IIRC, an '80-82 mustang clutch and pressure plate in mine, but had to use the '69 release bearing so it would fit the fork and go over the transmission shaft. It wasn't an "exact" fit, but it has worked for 5 years now.
 
i have to go down and see the car tomorrow

i am concerned because someplaces I see it listed as a 9 inch, some as an 8 7/8...is that really the same?

maybe I need to smack my mechanic....LOL. I did provide the 68 throw out bearing sicne I cant use teh cable release that comes in the kit

sigh.....
 
that's exactly the same setup I have behind my 200. Granted, I have a T-5, but that doesn't matter.

Lots of others have used the late model diaphragm PP with no issues.
 
You might need a longer clutch rod.. I had to fab one for my comet.. I'd would go by and see for your self befor you just tell him to fix it..
tim
 
There are some TOB differences for diaphragm clutches and 3-finger type clutches. From what I've read, one has a smaller outside diameter and 0.2" thicker release bearing because of where it rests.

Can't get Napa site to work right now, so not able to compare pictures and guess.
 
OK....heres what the mechanic said.

The pressure plate is about 1 inch shorter than the original...thus the fork is not lining up. I have a second clutch coming...but I dont know if thats gonna work

for those who had to switch forks, what did you do? Make one? I was hoping I could find one somewhere...I dont know if this guy could make one or not

any ideas?
 
BTW

THE SPRINGS ON MY CLUTCH PLATE...THERE ARE 6...4 OF THEM WERE CRACKED BROKEN OR IN PIECES

looked like its been there a WHILE
 
You are trying to use a diaphragm pressure plate with the older mechanical clutch rod linkage? That's the issue. You more-than-likely need the 3-finger pressure plate. The diaphragm is for the cable-clutch systems and it works much differently. The clutch fork is a completely different animal.
 
I bought a 78 clutch kit for a fairmont like I was told. :)

I do not know if it has 3 finger, like the old one. No one told me there was a difference. I did NOT see it before it went in

I can ask the guy I bought it from

whats the solution?

I mean, do I need a 68 pressure plate with a 78 diaphram clutch?

can someone list the parts again that I need? I cant seem to get any answers
OR...SHOULD I ORDER ANOTHER YEAR? WHAT YEAR WAS LAST YEAR TO USE THE 3 PRING PRESSURE PLATE? I will just put that back in...


:unsure:: :unsure:: :unsure:: :idea:
 
can someone point me to the exact parts I need?

discount auto crap doesnt have a clutch kit for my car...I cant seem to find it anywhere

anyone KNOW where I can but the right sheit?
 
I know I am getting wild with the posts but I need advice BAD

is this right? AUTO ZONE HAS THE PARTS ONLINE ONLY

core part total
CLUTCH DISC VALUCRAFT CP0924 $6.00 $11.99 $17.99

CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
VALUCRAFT CA0578 $12.00 $16.99 $28.99

CLUTCH BEARING TIMKEN 614034 $0.00 $24.99 $24.99

these are for a 68 mustang

I am done trying to get a better clutch
 
Assuming you have the "long style" clutch as pictured on the RAM page,

NAPA disc: Item#: NCLRCF923 Price: $ 34.15
I believe the clutch pressure plate is probably correct for the AZ listing. I say probably because there is also CAO578L listed and you would naturally think that the "L" refers to a long-type clutch. :unsure:

If anyone ever needed a digital camera, it's you now...
 
camera in hand, I am going to mechanic at lunch at snapping away with what I have....and when its dropped again, snapping what I have in

so i cannot use the diaphram one without changing the linkage?
 
I can't answer that specific question, but will comment more generally:

The clutch action pushes the TOB towards the motor.

•On a mechanical or hydro clutch, the pedal action results in a pushrod moving AWAY from the motor. This direction of movement is reversed by having the fork pivot between the pushrod and TOB. See the picture; fork is short and the pivot is under the little ridge halfway along it.



•On a cable clutch, the cable pulls the fork TOWARDS the motor. As the TOB also wants to move in this direction, the fork pivot is opposite side of the bell, past the centre. In the picture, cable pulls on the left side of the fork, which pivots on the right side.



Now, I would ASSUME that the clutches were designed to be interchangeable; this would reduce spares inventory. But I can't be 100% sure. For them to be intechangeable, the amount of sliding movement required by the TOB must be equal. But the bearings themselves may not be the same thickness.

Apart from the fact that it was busted, the old system worked. You need to measure to inside of 1/10 inch the thickness of your old TOB, and compare it to either new one of the two you bought. You need to compare thicknesses of friction plates, old and new.

Final measurement is to compare the height of the two pressure plate covers, looking from the side. They should be pretty similar. It is better to compare both when bolted to the flywheel with a friction plate in there, but this involves some to-ing and fro-ing. (When assembled for measurement, you check the height of the spring fingers off the flywheel face.)

Anyhow, I'll be asleep but if you text me I'll log on to see the pictures. How's that for assistance? :LOL:
 
heres what I have learned.

I CAN use the diaphram type clutch IF I get the linkage (and slight possibilty of replacing the fork)

If not, the GREAT person I bought the parts from will sen\d me a 3 finger pressure plate. He has been REALLY helpful so if anyone needs clutch parts, I recommend him

contact him thru

Steve T.
sales@brakeandclutchservice.com


Now does anyone have ideas on how to lengthen the linkage so I can 'splain to my mechanic...if you can tell me in spanish, it would be great
 
I found my receipt. Here is what I did with mine. I have a 1969 bellhousing, 3-speed transmission, 1969 drive shaft, 1969 yoke and 1966 rearend. I went to Autozone and bought a part # NU0578L clutch kit. This is for a 1982 Mustang. It is a diaphragm type clutch. I used the 1969 linkage and equalizer "Z" bar. I did have to modify the adjusting rod to make it longer, I think about a total of 2". I have no idea where I got it, probably out of the scrap bin. You can make one from some threaded rod and a heavy duty ball joint like they use on the end lawnmower steering linkages. Use the same type threaded rod that will fit the lower clutch rod adjustable thingy nut that looks like a plumb bob. If you go to the mustangs unlimited site, and type in a search for clutch rod, you can see how many different ways you can make one up. The one with part number 77521A 01 looks similiar to what I have with the end like a 67521E 01. I made mine adjustable at both ends to give me more options on adjustments. IIRC I had to do this because I couldn't get the release bearing to reach the fork to "disengage" the clutch. I think I used a 1969 release bearing, the one in the kit wouldn't fit my fork. This makes sense because that release bearing was made for the cable clutch and we are using mechanical linkages. It wasn't a perfect fit mating against the fingers, but it disengages the clutch and is still working. I also had to change the the pivot points on the equalizer "Z" bar arms ( the one that connects to the chassis and the little pivot point on the engine). I moved the top pivot point ( the one where the rod that comes directly off the clutch pedal from inside the car or upper clutch rod attaches to the "Z" bar) down about 1" closer to the pivot point of the equalizer "Z" bar. I moved the lower pivot ( where the lower clutch rod which you adjust, which I had to make longer, attaches to the "Z" bar ) down also about an inch. I had to drill new holes for these linkages. The clutch you have may work if you tinker with the linkages to get more travel on the fork. I also had the 3 finger clutch in before this diaphragm clutch, but that thing would shake you eye teeth out. The diaphragm clutch is so much smoother and grabs real hard. It grabbed so hard, I broke the gears in the differential after about a month. Hope this helps. If this is getting too complicated, couldn't you just go back with the original style clutch?
 
i am going ot go back to the original style clutch

this mechanic is good at replacing and tuning but NOT fabricating

next time I will upgrade. I HATE just doing repairs, I like to upgrade usually, but this time it bit me in the arse

thansk for your help and I WILL save that for next time
 
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