Yes this is a very long post, but hopefully this will be helpful to anyone doing a similar swap. Part numbers and links are listed throughout.
EDIT - PREFACE: Although this thread is mainly intended to walk you through a T-5 swap behind a 1966 & later dual pattern 200ci using a 1967 & later bellhousing, I'm adding this intro to hopefully point those using a pre 66 block & bell in the right direction. There are basically two main options for adapting a 200 block to use a T-5: 1)pre-dual pattern 2)dual pattern. While there are a couple exceptions, (namely the SROD and "BB" bellhousings, covered in the tranny pages listed below), these these two categories are where most 200, T-5 conversions will fall.
Your year model of your block will determine your bellhousing and thereby flywheel and clutch options on a T-5 swap. If you have a '65 or earlier block (casting code begins with C5 or earlier ie C4='64, C3 etc) that block is what is referred to as pre-dual pattern and should look like this:
65 (C5) & earlier pre-dual pattern block
The '66 (C6) and later 200 blocks are referred to as (you guessed it) dual pattern blocks, and look like this:
The '65 and earlier blocks use the 'small' bell also referred to as the 2.77 bellhousing (there is more than one small bell option & casting no. but all are C5 and earlier casting dates), and require the use of an 8.5" recessed flywheel. The larger 9" flat flywheel won't fit in the smaller bells, while '66 & later blocks (being dual pattern) will accept either the small bell or the later, larger bells used in '66 as well as the '67 and later bells including the SROD. The C7 or larger bell is not the same as the 'Big Bell' first found in early 80's with a low mount starter and stamped with a 'BB' code. "BB" block are low mount starters and will not accept the earlier high mount starter bell housings.
Special note for those with a C6 bellhousing: Ford used a C6 one year only bell (if you have this bell than Cal Pony Cars makes an adapter specifically for this one year only bellhousing...makes for the easiest swap, but is not the most common bell). 1966 is also the first year of the 9" flat flywheel, then from '67 on till the late 70's ford used the C7 bell with different revision codes (last digit(s) in BH casting code). Again either the small or large bells can be used on a dual pattern block along with their respective flywheels 8.5" recessed or 9" flat.
So the short answer is with a 1965 and earlier block you'll need or have a smaller bell like the 2.77 and an 8.5" recessed flywheel. Then you'll also need the spacer/adapter that was developed by the folks here at FSP for the 'small' (2.77) bell and is available through Classic Inlines (in fact Mike/AZcoupe has complete conversion kits and lists his parts by BH casting numbers
). See the Small Six 215mm Clutch and Presure Plate info sticky at the top of this section for clutch & PP options with a 8.5 inch recessed flywheel.
See the History page if you want to familiarize yourself with 200ci manual transmission options (it is linked below with three other pages that are valuable information resources as well). Also see first time ever transmission if you have never installed or removed a transmission before, or just need to brush up. As with any major repair, modification, etc. always be careful and utilize all safety equipment and measures as required.
T-5 Conversion for a 200 1966 (& later) Block with a 1967 (& later) Bell
Here is my installation of a 4cyl T-5 to a 1967 Bell on a 1966 block. Let me start by saying thanks to this forum and its many posts that helped make this conversion a very straight forward project.
I purchased my rebuilt 4cyl T-5 (trans id 1352-194) out of an 1989 Mustang on ebay from txpartsman for $325 (no core charge). I have a 3.20, 7.25 rear differential. My 1966 Mustang had already been adapted to a 1967 Bell with a 3.03 three speed behind it.
I purchased the California Pony Cars Small Block 6 Bolt adapter plate from someone on ebay (my cost $125 delivered). This is the same adapter plate sold by Modern Driveline and other conversion kit sellers for C7 bellhousings (CPC part no. TRA-650-526). This is a quality adapter plate with a tight fitting concentric ring that insures proper centering of the input shaft in the '67 bell housing. In 2011, it appears California Pony Cars modified the sbf 6 bolt adapter that makes fitting it to a C7 bellhousing even easier (more below).
http://www.calponycars.com/prodDetail.php?prodId=349
I purchased a CPC tubular style 65-66 T-5 crossmember (Part no. TRA-656-522) from mustangsteve66 on ebay ($158 delivered, I tried to shave costs anywhere I could). In hindsight I would go with the angle iron style sold by Classic Inlines or Modern Driveline if I had to do this over again, or just make my own (big savings). The tubular style required more modification than I thought it should (no slotted mounting holes...more later).
http://www.calponycars.com/prodDetail.php?prodId=352
http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/car ... ndriveline
I also plunked down the extra money for a Steeda Tri-Ax T-5 shifter ($151 new, delivered from feepay again) with positive stops. One of the weak points on the T-5 is aluminum shift forks, and one over shift or hard shift can make the transmission problematic to shift from there on out.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Steeda/946643/10002/-1/10523
After I got these main three components I started the swap. These pages, preserved by CoupeBoy from FSP were invaluable before and during the swap.
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/index.html
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/ma ... swaps.html
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/t- ... -info.html
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/cable-bell.html
Hope I am a better mechanic than photographer, as I did not take as many pictures as I would have liked, to help document the conversion. However, here is a link to what I have.
http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk27 ... 20Install/
CLUTCH
I removed the driveshaft and old 3.03 transmission. I pulled the bell housing and old three finger pressure plate. Took the flywheel off and had it resurfaced at Oreilly ($35). Since I have the large flat flywheel I opted to go back with a diaphragm style clutch setup. I used a 9 in. 10 spline count 1-1/16 input shaft diameter clutch kit made by Ram Clutches (RC88727) purchased through Mustangs Unlimited for $90 including shipping. This clutch kit is originally for a 1979-1982 Mustang with a 3.3L i6. I know of others who used a 1978 Fairmont diaphragm clutch setup, and I think as long as you have the large flat flywheel, there are several options incuding a new orig three finger style setup from Napa (was $190). The throwout bearing from the Ram kit was of no use since it was for a cable style bell and I modified the arbor to work with the smaller input shaft of the 4 cyl T-5.
I purchased the special pilot bearing for 4cyl T-5 to mate to 200ci from Napa (SKF Part no. 6202-2RSJ for $25) You do not want to use 6202-RSJ as it only has a seal on one side. Be sure to shop your part numbers, both Autozone and RockAuto sell this bearing much cheaper. If you're using a bent8 T-5 then you need the standard brass style pilot bushing from a '67 200 w/top loader manual tranny (ie 3.03 3spd).
I used a 1967 throwout bearing also from Napa (Part no. N1439) for $45, they did have a cheaper economy line bearing.
ADAPTER PLATE
After I installed the new pilot bearing, flywheel (don't forget to use oil resistant sealer on bolt threads to keep from soaking your clutch) clutch disk, and diaphragm pressure plate, I modified the CPC adapter plate to fit the 67 bell. Below is a post to an old thread that shows the solution I used. Three out of four bolts worked according to the CPC instructions, but the lower right-hand corner bolt would have landed on the edge of the bellhousing (remeber this plate is orig intended for sbf BH). The advantage of the solution below is no tapping required in the process, just two drilled through holes instead of one.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ng+adapter
In 2011 CPC appears to have modified the SBF 6 Bolt adapter that makes it even easier to mount to a C7 bellhousing. They added some beef to the lower right-hand/passenger side corner of the 'new adapter' which allows you to drill two straight thru holes on the right-hand/passenger side of the 'new adapter' that will now both land in the thickest portion of the adapter plate and be mounted by two bolts from the inside (thanks to spikeomatic for the update & pics).
Using the older style SBF 6 bolt adapter from CPC; I also had to grind down the top of the head on the countersink bolt that mounted in the upper left had corner of the adapter (wish I had taken a pic of this). I used a fine stone on a bench grinder and kept stopping and pushing the allen head wrench into the bolt while it was hot to maintain the opening. The bolt did not countersink flush or below flush and so it would have shimmed the transmission away slightly on that upper left-hand corner. The lower left-hand corner countersink also was a little high but does not come into contact with the face of the T-5 (see pic). I also used a thin guage washer between the adapter plate and the bellhousing on the additional drilled through hole in lower right hand corner of adapter plate (sorry no pic). The aluminum surfaces on the bell and adapter plate are a bit thinner in this area and I did not want them to flex/crush toward each other. I used loctite red on all the adapter plate mounting bolts. After this modification the adapter plate fit perfectly flush to the bellhousing and provided a perfectly flush surface for the T-5 to mount against.
I had hacked off the end of the arbor that came with the clutch kit and jammed a 3/8 in. deep set socket in the end (Clampett part no. double knot 1 ). This apparently allowed me to align the clutch pretty well as the T-5 stabbed (with the help of my brother) on the first shot, slid right in 
I am still shocked on how easy that went. Note: I did use transmission mounting bolts that were about a 1/2 inch shorter than the ones supplied with the adapter plate. The originally supplied bolts would have bottomed out against the bellhousing. A trick to alligning the clutch disc and input shaft is to leave the tranny in gear so you can adjust minutely the output shaft during installation if they're out of allignment.
CROSSMEMBER & MOUNT
The next modification required was because the tubular style crossmember did not have slotted bolt holes on either end where it mounts to the tunnel brace. I slotted out the holes with the crossmember in a vise using a hand drill and carbide reaming/cutting bit. I purchased a three speed manual transmission mount for a 1967 from autozone cost $8 (Part no. 2253). This particular mount was a 1/4 inch shorter in height than the original 3.03 mount, which gave me a little more clearance between the tunnel reinforcement rib and the top of the T-5. Like someone on the forum said, "it is a tight fit, but a perfectly tight fit". As I mentioned earlier, if I was doing this part again I would go with the angle iron style crossmember from Classic Inlines or Modern Driveline or just make one myself (see pic) as the tubular style required too much modification and made a tighter fit than necessary given the cost.
SHIFTER
After I had the crossmember set to install, and the new mount on the transmission my brother and I lowered the transmission enough to attach the new Steeda shifter by slipping it through the hump hole from inside the car. He was able to torque the two front bolts on the shifter mounting plate from under the car while I torqued the two on the back of the plate from inside the car. We then raised up the tail of the transmission and installed the modified/remodified crossmember. I did have to trim 3/8 inch sheet metal from the front edge of the shifter hump hole opening to allow the Steeda shifter to clear completely. The Steeda shifter has a high wide collar on it for the positive stop bolts and short throw engineering. If I had used a stock shifter this trimming would not have been necessary.
The adapter plate does rotate the transmission toward the driver slightly so I used two large flat washers on the passenger side bolt of the transmission mount (between the rubber mount and the crossmember) to maintain the rotation (see pic). I also enlogated the parking brake pivot slot on the crossmember with a dremel, to keep the parking brake adjusted to about where it was on the old crossmember.
DRIVESHAFT
I had my drive shaft shortened by about an inch and balanced. I am reusing the slip yoke from the 3.03 that has the smaller 1100 series u-joints at the front and back. The driveshaft shop installed two new Neapco u-joints ($10 ea.). The '67 200ci, 3.03 yoke is 28 spline count like a T-5 yoke, but it is based on standard measure spline count rather than a metric spline like the T-5. However, the yoke fits snuggly on the output shaft with no play that I can tell. Others on this forum have also reused the 3.03 slip yoke and so far I have not found anyone who said this was, or became a problem.
Another cost savings option specifically for the '65-66 Mustangs with an 8" rear end is to use a DS from an '85 Ford Thunderbird or Mercury Cougar w/v6 and AOD. It has the proper sized u-joints and the AOD tranny yoke fits the T-5 (the tranny yoke may have a dampner ring attached which can be used as is). The big plus is this DS is already the correct length for this particular powertrain combination and wheel base.
DONE
End result after reinstalling the modified driveshaft is AWESOME! The taller first gear will be great for hills and traffic jams as reported, as well as a quick launch at the intersection. I just have to get use to it a little (screeching the tires the first couple times something I could never do with my old 3.03 and basically stock 200. Now that she is running great, it's time to get her to stop better. Scarebird is next. Thanks again to all the members of this forum.
EDIT - PREFACE: Although this thread is mainly intended to walk you through a T-5 swap behind a 1966 & later dual pattern 200ci using a 1967 & later bellhousing, I'm adding this intro to hopefully point those using a pre 66 block & bell in the right direction. There are basically two main options for adapting a 200 block to use a T-5: 1)pre-dual pattern 2)dual pattern. While there are a couple exceptions, (namely the SROD and "BB" bellhousings, covered in the tranny pages listed below), these these two categories are where most 200, T-5 conversions will fall.
Your year model of your block will determine your bellhousing and thereby flywheel and clutch options on a T-5 swap. If you have a '65 or earlier block (casting code begins with C5 or earlier ie C4='64, C3 etc) that block is what is referred to as pre-dual pattern and should look like this:
65 (C5) & earlier pre-dual pattern block
The '66 (C6) and later 200 blocks are referred to as (you guessed it) dual pattern blocks, and look like this:
The '65 and earlier blocks use the 'small' bell also referred to as the 2.77 bellhousing (there is more than one small bell option & casting no. but all are C5 and earlier casting dates), and require the use of an 8.5" recessed flywheel. The larger 9" flat flywheel won't fit in the smaller bells, while '66 & later blocks (being dual pattern) will accept either the small bell or the later, larger bells used in '66 as well as the '67 and later bells including the SROD. The C7 or larger bell is not the same as the 'Big Bell' first found in early 80's with a low mount starter and stamped with a 'BB' code. "BB" block are low mount starters and will not accept the earlier high mount starter bell housings.
Special note for those with a C6 bellhousing: Ford used a C6 one year only bell (if you have this bell than Cal Pony Cars makes an adapter specifically for this one year only bellhousing...makes for the easiest swap, but is not the most common bell). 1966 is also the first year of the 9" flat flywheel, then from '67 on till the late 70's ford used the C7 bell with different revision codes (last digit(s) in BH casting code). Again either the small or large bells can be used on a dual pattern block along with their respective flywheels 8.5" recessed or 9" flat.
So the short answer is with a 1965 and earlier block you'll need or have a smaller bell like the 2.77 and an 8.5" recessed flywheel. Then you'll also need the spacer/adapter that was developed by the folks here at FSP for the 'small' (2.77) bell and is available through Classic Inlines (in fact Mike/AZcoupe has complete conversion kits and lists his parts by BH casting numbers
). See the Small Six 215mm Clutch and Presure Plate info sticky at the top of this section for clutch & PP options with a 8.5 inch recessed flywheel. See the History page if you want to familiarize yourself with 200ci manual transmission options (it is linked below with three other pages that are valuable information resources as well). Also see first time ever transmission if you have never installed or removed a transmission before, or just need to brush up. As with any major repair, modification, etc. always be careful and utilize all safety equipment and measures as required.
T-5 Conversion for a 200 1966 (& later) Block with a 1967 (& later) Bell
Here is my installation of a 4cyl T-5 to a 1967 Bell on a 1966 block. Let me start by saying thanks to this forum and its many posts that helped make this conversion a very straight forward project.
I purchased my rebuilt 4cyl T-5 (trans id 1352-194) out of an 1989 Mustang on ebay from txpartsman for $325 (no core charge). I have a 3.20, 7.25 rear differential. My 1966 Mustang had already been adapted to a 1967 Bell with a 3.03 three speed behind it.
I purchased the California Pony Cars Small Block 6 Bolt adapter plate from someone on ebay (my cost $125 delivered). This is the same adapter plate sold by Modern Driveline and other conversion kit sellers for C7 bellhousings (CPC part no. TRA-650-526). This is a quality adapter plate with a tight fitting concentric ring that insures proper centering of the input shaft in the '67 bell housing. In 2011, it appears California Pony Cars modified the sbf 6 bolt adapter that makes fitting it to a C7 bellhousing even easier (more below).
http://www.calponycars.com/prodDetail.php?prodId=349
I purchased a CPC tubular style 65-66 T-5 crossmember (Part no. TRA-656-522) from mustangsteve66 on ebay ($158 delivered, I tried to shave costs anywhere I could). In hindsight I would go with the angle iron style sold by Classic Inlines or Modern Driveline if I had to do this over again, or just make my own (big savings). The tubular style required more modification than I thought it should (no slotted mounting holes...more later).
http://www.calponycars.com/prodDetail.php?prodId=352
http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/car ... ndriveline
I also plunked down the extra money for a Steeda Tri-Ax T-5 shifter ($151 new, delivered from feepay again) with positive stops. One of the weak points on the T-5 is aluminum shift forks, and one over shift or hard shift can make the transmission problematic to shift from there on out.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Steeda/946643/10002/-1/10523
After I got these main three components I started the swap. These pages, preserved by CoupeBoy from FSP were invaluable before and during the swap.
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/index.html
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/ma ... swaps.html
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/t- ... -info.html
http://straightsixshootin.weebly.com/cable-bell.html
Hope I am a better mechanic than photographer, as I did not take as many pictures as I would have liked, to help document the conversion. However, here is a link to what I have.
http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk27 ... 20Install/
CLUTCH
I removed the driveshaft and old 3.03 transmission. I pulled the bell housing and old three finger pressure plate. Took the flywheel off and had it resurfaced at Oreilly ($35). Since I have the large flat flywheel I opted to go back with a diaphragm style clutch setup. I used a 9 in. 10 spline count 1-1/16 input shaft diameter clutch kit made by Ram Clutches (RC88727) purchased through Mustangs Unlimited for $90 including shipping. This clutch kit is originally for a 1979-1982 Mustang with a 3.3L i6. I know of others who used a 1978 Fairmont diaphragm clutch setup, and I think as long as you have the large flat flywheel, there are several options incuding a new orig three finger style setup from Napa (was $190). The throwout bearing from the Ram kit was of no use since it was for a cable style bell and I modified the arbor to work with the smaller input shaft of the 4 cyl T-5.
I purchased the special pilot bearing for 4cyl T-5 to mate to 200ci from Napa (SKF Part no. 6202-2RSJ for $25) You do not want to use 6202-RSJ as it only has a seal on one side. Be sure to shop your part numbers, both Autozone and RockAuto sell this bearing much cheaper. If you're using a bent8 T-5 then you need the standard brass style pilot bushing from a '67 200 w/top loader manual tranny (ie 3.03 3spd).
I used a 1967 throwout bearing also from Napa (Part no. N1439) for $45, they did have a cheaper economy line bearing.
ADAPTER PLATE
After I installed the new pilot bearing, flywheel (don't forget to use oil resistant sealer on bolt threads to keep from soaking your clutch) clutch disk, and diaphragm pressure plate, I modified the CPC adapter plate to fit the 67 bell. Below is a post to an old thread that shows the solution I used. Three out of four bolts worked according to the CPC instructions, but the lower right-hand corner bolt would have landed on the edge of the bellhousing (remeber this plate is orig intended for sbf BH). The advantage of the solution below is no tapping required in the process, just two drilled through holes instead of one.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... ng+adapter
In 2011 CPC appears to have modified the SBF 6 Bolt adapter that makes it even easier to mount to a C7 bellhousing. They added some beef to the lower right-hand/passenger side corner of the 'new adapter' which allows you to drill two straight thru holes on the right-hand/passenger side of the 'new adapter' that will now both land in the thickest portion of the adapter plate and be mounted by two bolts from the inside (thanks to spikeomatic for the update & pics).
Using the older style SBF 6 bolt adapter from CPC; I also had to grind down the top of the head on the countersink bolt that mounted in the upper left had corner of the adapter (wish I had taken a pic of this). I used a fine stone on a bench grinder and kept stopping and pushing the allen head wrench into the bolt while it was hot to maintain the opening. The bolt did not countersink flush or below flush and so it would have shimmed the transmission away slightly on that upper left-hand corner. The lower left-hand corner countersink also was a little high but does not come into contact with the face of the T-5 (see pic). I also used a thin guage washer between the adapter plate and the bellhousing on the additional drilled through hole in lower right hand corner of adapter plate (sorry no pic). The aluminum surfaces on the bell and adapter plate are a bit thinner in this area and I did not want them to flex/crush toward each other. I used loctite red on all the adapter plate mounting bolts. After this modification the adapter plate fit perfectly flush to the bellhousing and provided a perfectly flush surface for the T-5 to mount against.
I had hacked off the end of the arbor that came with the clutch kit and jammed a 3/8 in. deep set socket in the end (Clampett part no. double knot 1
). This apparently allowed me to align the clutch pretty well as the T-5 stabbed (with the help of my brother) on the first shot, slid right in I am still shocked on how easy that went. Note: I did use transmission mounting bolts that were about a 1/2 inch shorter than the ones supplied with the adapter plate. The originally supplied bolts would have bottomed out against the bellhousing. A trick to alligning the clutch disc and input shaft is to leave the tranny in gear so you can adjust minutely the output shaft during installation if they're out of allignment.CROSSMEMBER & MOUNT
The next modification required was because the tubular style crossmember did not have slotted bolt holes on either end where it mounts to the tunnel brace. I slotted out the holes with the crossmember in a vise using a hand drill and carbide reaming/cutting bit. I purchased a three speed manual transmission mount for a 1967 from autozone cost $8 (Part no. 2253). This particular mount was a 1/4 inch shorter in height than the original 3.03 mount, which gave me a little more clearance between the tunnel reinforcement rib and the top of the T-5. Like someone on the forum said, "it is a tight fit, but a perfectly tight fit". As I mentioned earlier, if I was doing this part again I would go with the angle iron style crossmember from Classic Inlines or Modern Driveline or just make one myself (see pic) as the tubular style required too much modification and made a tighter fit than necessary given the cost.
SHIFTER
After I had the crossmember set to install, and the new mount on the transmission my brother and I lowered the transmission enough to attach the new Steeda shifter by slipping it through the hump hole from inside the car. He was able to torque the two front bolts on the shifter mounting plate from under the car while I torqued the two on the back of the plate from inside the car. We then raised up the tail of the transmission and installed the modified/remodified crossmember. I did have to trim 3/8 inch sheet metal from the front edge of the shifter hump hole opening to allow the Steeda shifter to clear completely. The Steeda shifter has a high wide collar on it for the positive stop bolts and short throw engineering. If I had used a stock shifter this trimming would not have been necessary.
The adapter plate does rotate the transmission toward the driver slightly so I used two large flat washers on the passenger side bolt of the transmission mount (between the rubber mount and the crossmember) to maintain the rotation (see pic). I also enlogated the parking brake pivot slot on the crossmember with a dremel, to keep the parking brake adjusted to about where it was on the old crossmember.
DRIVESHAFT
I had my drive shaft shortened by about an inch and balanced. I am reusing the slip yoke from the 3.03 that has the smaller 1100 series u-joints at the front and back. The driveshaft shop installed two new Neapco u-joints ($10 ea.). The '67 200ci, 3.03 yoke is 28 spline count like a T-5 yoke, but it is based on standard measure spline count rather than a metric spline like the T-5. However, the yoke fits snuggly on the output shaft with no play that I can tell. Others on this forum have also reused the 3.03 slip yoke and so far I have not found anyone who said this was, or became a problem.
Another cost savings option specifically for the '65-66 Mustangs with an 8" rear end is to use a DS from an '85 Ford Thunderbird or Mercury Cougar w/v6 and AOD. It has the proper sized u-joints and the AOD tranny yoke fits the T-5 (the tranny yoke may have a dampner ring attached which can be used as is). The big plus is this DS is already the correct length for this particular powertrain combination and wheel base.
DONE
End result after reinstalling the modified driveshaft is AWESOME! The taller first gear will be great for hills and traffic jams as reported, as well as a quick launch at the intersection. I just have to get use to it a little (screeching the tires the first couple times
something I could never do with my old 3.03 and basically stock 200. Now that she is running great, it's time to get her to stop better. Scarebird is next. Thanks again to all the members of this forum.
