NEED help on holley 2300!!!!!

[MiniCJJ64]

Ok I found the user name. "mcmillal" is the user that has a holley 500 with an adaptor. I tried to get a hold of him and see how his is running, but no message back.

 

[kirkallen143]

does anyone know what the adaptor would do to the 500. The first thing I can think of is the adapter reduces the air by half. What would that do to the carb? I have seen someone on here that has a adaptor with their 500. I wonder how there carb is running.

I would have to say with the larger venturi of the 500cfm, the adapter is not allowing it to pull enough air to pull fuel. That was one reason for the booster change, to make the area smaller in the venturi for a better signal.

Kirk

 

[MiniCJJ64]

OK I have great news!! I did a test drive after I got my boosters changed to the Annular Boosters. I used the 93 main jets like I did before and now they are rich, too rich. So then I changed my jets to 73 main thinking that was to lean, but they where rich to. For now I am leaving them in, but now I think the 68 should work.

The only problem I have is two things. About 1,500 RPM to 2,050 RPM it runs lean. Also It falls on its face when I go from a dead stop.

I think all I got to do is figure out the accelerator pump. Now I know I have the brown cam. If I was to put it in the #2 spot. What would that do?

Also would I need to get a bigger Squirter Nozzle or should stock size be fine?

 

[wsa111]

Bill will have to answer for the brazing of his throttle blade holes

On these small engines the extra idle air is not needed, unless you are running a camshaft with 280 degrees duration with a 108 lobe center.

The holes were put there for the V-8 guys with wild cams so they retained most of the transfer slot instead of just turning in the idle speed screw & loosing most of the transfer slot in the transision from idle to part throttle. Bill

 

[kirkallen143]

OK I have great news!! I did a test drive after I got my boosters changed to the Annular Boosters. I used the 93 main jets like I did before and now they are rich, too rich. So then I changed my jets to 73 main thinking that was to lean, but they where rich to. For now I am leaving them in, but now I think the 68 should work.

The only problem I have is two things. About 1,500 RPM to 2,050 RPM it runs lean. Also It falls on its face when I go from a dead stop.

I think all I got to do is figure out the accelerator pump. Now I know I have the brown cam. If I was to put it in the #2 spot. What would that do?

Also would I need to get a bigger Squirter Nozzle or should stock size be fine?

Thanks Bill for the explanation, I knew it went something like that.

Is there any way you could hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum and see what are your readings and each rpm level while driving? We might be able to cover that 1500 - 2000 rpm leanness with a higher rating PV like a 10.5. You could also open the air/fuel mixture screws a 1/2 to 1 full turn more and see if that will help. Another option is to leave the big brown pump cam in there and use a smaller say 0.025 or 0.028" squirter which might keep the fuel coming out while in the transition (that ones a long shot). I have even heard of folks drilling the transition wells deeper to get more fuel down there. You could drill the IFR's larger to get more fuel (nothing over 0.030" for these engines). These are a few things to try and richen up the transition circuit.

Kirk

 

[MiniCJJ64]

I think I will make my IFR a little bigger. I went to sears to get some small drill bits, but they didn't have any! Where can I get the really small drill bits at?

 

[Bort62]

I think I will make my IFR a little bigger. I went to sears to get some small drill bits, but they didn't have any! Where can I get the really small drill bits at?

Somewhere that allows the use of a preposition to end a sentence.

My local Ace has some fairly small bits, but anything real small is going to be a specialty tool house. If you can't find anything locally, mcmaster.com has them.

 

[fphillips]

Harbor freight has #1-60, HobbyTown has #61-80.

See here to match sizes:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes#Drill_Bit_Conversion_Table

Frank

 

[MiniCJJ64]

Thanks for the replys on the drill bits!

 

[kirkallen143]

I think I will make my IFR a little bigger. I went to sears to get some small drill bits, but they didn't have any! Where can I get the really small drill bits at?

But remember, you will have to drill your IAB's larger to compensate for the larger IFR's. If you have an AFR meter/gauge, what I like to do is go ahead and turn my mixture screws out 1 1/2 turns and then set the IFR's/IAB's accordingly.

Kind of a rule of thumb from my research for every 0.001" change in IFR's, you will need to make a 0.005" change in the IAB's.

Old values:
IFR = 0.028"
IAB = 0.070"

New values:
IFR = 0.030"
IAB = 0.080"

Note: you can go too big on the IAB's where it will actually have a reverse effect on the mixture. I have found this out myself with any IAB over 0.085" for my motor.

Kirk

 

[MiniCJJ64]

This is was111 metering block. I had mine done the same. The top was down sized to .0295.
What does IAB stand for?

[/img]

 

[kirkallen143]

IAB = Idle Air Bleed.

They are the brass bleeds on top of the carb closer to the edge. You need to measure yours, but they should be around 0.070" stock. They are really easy to tap (10-32) for removeable bleeds.