need help picking a rebuilt carb # please

[Anonymous]

i am trying to find a autolite 1100 scv carb, off a 200, on the autozoo web site and the problems start...
the champion rebuilt 1100 carb for a 63 comet 170 and 65 falcon 200 are the same part number???
the champion 1100 from a 64 ranchero 200ci bears a different # ?

i release they have no idea what is hapening but there has got to be a way around this

maybe a engineering number off a correct 200 autolite 1100 scv?
or
if anyone knows the corect part numberfrom autozoo?

60-70$ will last til i get more info on those shiny new carbs from ponycarbs

ps i am gonna try and fix it but it is slap worn out 1/4 inch lateral play in the throttle shaft etc

 

[CoupeBoy]

is one for a manual vehicle and the other for a automatic? One of them has antistall dashpots on both sides of the float portion of the carburator. The other only has a dashpot on one side.

Perhaps they are different sized carbs (CFMs) Hopefully somebody with more knowledge on the particulars can chime in. Do they happen to list the carbs that their rebuilt units replace?

-ron

 

[Anonymous]

170 manual and trying for a slightly bigger cfm from a 200 manual not cali emissions(not that that applies in 65/66)

i entered no reference # and manual on the autozoo site

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back 63Merc:

The carb you want is an Autolite 1100 from a 1965 Mustang/Fairlane C5OF. This carb comes in either a manual or auto trans. I always suggest an auto matic trans carb for either application. The reason is that auto trans carbs usually show less wear. The dash pot on the auto carbs will not be an issue if adjusted properly. The dash pot on the auto carbs decreases the rate of deceleration. It can be adjusted so as to not have any effect. I prefer the auto carbs for rebuilding because auto trans carbs generally show less throttle shaft wear.

The code for the manual trans is C5OF-Y. For the auto trans it is C5OF-F or R.

Beware that cheapo rebuilders do no know the difference between a 1.10" inner diameter venturi from a 170 engine and a 1.2" diameter of a 200 engine. The cfm difference is 1.1" = 150 cfm, 1.2" = 185 cfm.

Also know that you would be money ahead and with peace of mind to find a good core and rebuild it yourself.

If you go with an Autozone rebuilt, do yourself a favor and disassemble it to measure, check jet size and float setting. Also to make sure the gaskets are properly installed and that it is clean. Be sure to recheck the function of the needle valve and seat.

A 200 carb is a nice upgrade on a 170 and an absolute bolt-on.

Hope that's what you need.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

thank you
i just want a 'better' carb until i justify the $350(oddly ~$20 less than thier rebuild ones) NEW annular discharge 1100. i have so many questions pony carbs did not answer tho

i pulled the 56F jet out of one of my 240 carbs and swapped it for the 59F flooding my 170, thats right, not a typo, the 240 running a smaller jet than a 170??

i might as well go junkyarding sunday, i may atleast find some jets.

the 200 carb is good for in my figures about 4800rpm well above hp peak 80%VE on a 170 i wonder what a 170 @5000 sounds like, i wound up my 400 it sounded scary as hell

is there anything that can be done with the power valve?

unfortunately only champ listed with generic part number at autozoo