NEED HELP WITH ALL ORIGIONAL 67 with a 200...

[ManikMaster]

i really want to make my ride cherry...the body is in superb condition minus two dings, and the engine runs probably 80% of its potential...but i am looking to really get in there and make this car a beauty. i would like to do suspension first, followed by steering, and maybe disc brakes...but my main thing i really would like help with is the engine...i would like this baby to be a daily driver, while still getting some boosts in performance without emptying my account...i realize that a mustang aint no honda civic lol...so i would like to ask all of you out there what you think i should do with my baby to make her scream and run like she could...any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks
Manik

 

[ManikMaster]

by the way i am highly motivated to do this, but i am a college student so my cash flow is limited...

 

[fordconvert]

An actual number of how much you can/would like to spend would help. Limited funds could mean $5000 to some people, not me but Im sure to someone that would be limited, I was working with $500 on mine at first.

Also is this your only car so it cant be off the road for long?

Most people start with a carb rebuild and ignition upgrade then move to things like exhaust. After that it gets more expensive and more has to come apart and be properly matched which drives up the time and price.

Do you care about keeping things orignal or what would have been an orignal option for your car when it was new? Do you care about putting non Ford parts on?

 

[ManikMaster]

i have a rebuilt autolite 1100 on it as of now, i believe it is in good condition, i put in a new rotor and cap but i think i would like to upgrade to an electronic ignition...limited funds meaning that i want to perform every upgrade as cheaply as possible, including refurbed parts, and doing all the work myself obviously...thanks for the help...by the way i plan on getting a motorcycle when i am doing this work so having it out of order is no problem
Thanks
MAnik

 

[TheDude]

First, make sure you get the engine running well in its current state before you change things. It will be easier to diagnose a possible problem that might occur when you change parts out (like a carburetor or distributor). Research all you can before you change or upgrade. No matter what you do, its going to get expensive if you want to work on the suspension, brakes, and engine. I'm a college student and I know how limited funds can be. There is so many parts I want but they easily start to add up and saving for school is much more important for me so I try to spend as little as possible on cars.


If you want a good boost in performance you need to address the breathing issues on these engines. A better exhaust header and pipes allows the engine to breathe. To take advantage of that you can upgrade to a bigger carburetor. A popular choice is the Holley/Weber 2bbl. I will warn you that it is not always a direct bolt on a go....You will have to modify your accelerator linkage and make sure it is compatible with your distributor. You definitely want electronic ignition.

I have done the above upgrades and they all went well except for the carburetor. The first HW 2bbl I put on the car ran great. I couldn't have been more pleased. When that blew up I bought the same type, but it was remanufactured. For some reason the second carburetor did not do as well. I suspect it might have something to do with vacuum and my distributor. I'm still trying to get a few things put back together on the engine before I can figure out what is wrong. Please, do tons of research and ask about anything you are unsure of. It will save you so much trouble if you plan things out and take it slow to make sure its right the first time.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy MM and all:

It would help us to help you if you were to tell us more details about your '67- trans? Rearend ratio? miles on engine? type of driving you usually do? where you are located? where was the car built? And anything else that may make your situation unique? What is your mechanical ability? Tools? knowledgable friends?

Some very good advice has already been given, but to recap-
*Read, study and PLAN!!! Knowledge is the cheapest upgrade you can make. Having a plan is a close second. If you know what you want when you're done then the very first upgrade will be a step in that direction.
*Know what you have and have it working correctly.
*Make sure your car is safe. Spend your money here first and always!!
*Enjoy the journey! Don't get in over your head or your wallet.

With that said, Adding some initial advance to the igintion, airing up the tires and lightening the load are free and easy performance and economy upgrades you can do right now. Do you have a timing light?

Keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David

 

[ManikMaster]

i have a three speed standard tranny, i dont know the rear end ratio...does anyone have a vin decoder? it has around 160 grand with atleast one rebuild under her belt, my mechanical ability is relatively high i can do it if you give me a book and the tools basically...plus i have lots of friends with lots of experience...and i do mostly driving around town and ten minute freeway runs so its just pretty basic needs...thanks for all the suggestions so far it really helps.

i definetly need to get a timing light because i have a feeling that my timing is definetly off by a few degrees...i also want to set the idle correctly...i think i may be having a problem with the vac adv. it is not connected under the carb, it is capped off...should i have that like that? is there any preferable method for taking care of that?

 

[addo]

First step is to confirm year of the block and head.

Look for the raised letter/number codes. On the head, the middle four characters will be 6049. For the block, these middle four will be 6015. Post each code here in full.

Now, looking at the rear - you need to get under the car and find the little pressed metal tag on the "tin hat". One of the bolts there, will be holding it on. Clean the tag with solvent on some paper towel or rag, and note every detail.

What size tyres are you running?

 

[bigcatchdaniel555]

if you cant find the rear end tag just google "classic mustang vin decoder" then enter all the info from your door tag and it will tell you everything

 

[fordconvert]

If you still have the points style dizzy get a new set of points and a condensor and a dwell/tech meter. Good properly adjusted points work fairly well, plus they are cheap! Eventually you want some sort of electronic ignition but while you are planning and working on other things new properly adjusted points will work fine.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back:

We're zeroing in on it now. Along with the head and block casting numbers it would be a good idea to verify the carb and the distributor you're using. If you have a stock, OEM head and block, just rebuilt, or, other pieces it is best to ID, for sure, what you are working with. Since you know it has been rebuilt at least once, it opens the door for ???????

The good news is the in '67 FoMoCo started using the much stonger, and fully synchro three speed tranny.

Yes, your OEM Load-O-Matic distributor requires a specific signal from the OEM Autolite 1100 carb with a Spark Control Valve (SCV). They are designed to work together. Without this connection your engine has no ignition sensitive advance.

In addition to reading here- have you discovered the search feature yet?- one of your first purchases should be a Shop Manual for your year. They run about $50.00 and are priceless, if you're going to DIY.

Adios, David

 

[ManikMaster]

good to hear about the fully synchro tranny i want to stick with that for a while...i mean the engine was made for the three might as well leave it...i am running an autolite 1100 for sure i changed it myself...basically from alll i know its all origional with very little done besides maintenence...

that is why i want to know everything before screwing that up, because it would be lame to mess up this beauty...

 

[ManikMaster]

Howdy back:

We're zeroing in on it now. Along with the head and block casting numbers it would be a good idea to verify the carb and the distributor you're using. If you have a stock, OEM head and block, just rebuilt, or, other pieces it is best to ID, for sure, what you are working with. Since you know it has been rebuilt at least once, it opens the door for ???????

The good news is the in '67 FoMoCo started using the much stonger, and fully synchro three speed tranny.

Yes, your OEM Load-O-Matic distributor requires a specific signal from the OEM Autolite 1100 carb with a Spark Control Valve (SCV). They are designed to work together. Without this connection your engine has no ignition sensitive advance.

In addition to reading here- have you discovered the search feature yet?- one of your first purchases should be a Shop Manual for your year. They run about $50.00 and are priceless, if you're going to DIY.

Adios, David

so following what you said if i wanted a newer more air flow allowing carb, i might as well go with electronic ignition at the same time to simplify things yes?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back MM;

Q- "if i wanted a newer more air flow allowing carb, i might as well go with electronic ignition at the same time to simplify things yes?"

A- Maybe. You could go with an 1101 Autolite from a '63 -'67 233 engine or from a '64 262 truck six. This carb will flow 215 cfm and have a SCV compatible with your stock distributor and be close to a bolt on. With this one you can upgrade your distributor with a Petronix Ignitor for bolt-in pointless ignition.

OR-

You can upgrade to a Carter RBS from '70 to '77 250 engine, OR with an adapter you have several two barrel options- primary camps are a Holley/Weber two stage two barrel or the wide base Autolite 2100 and Holley 2300s. You could do a search on any or all of these options as they have been done by a bunch of folks here who are glad to share.

Any of these will require upgrading to a '68 and later distributor. All of these will have centrifugal advance and a vacuum advance signaled by a ported vacuum signal from the carb. The '68 to '73. The pointless DuraSpark system first appeared in the '73 model year and was upgraded in the '75 model year with the DuraSpark II system.

While you're thinking this over you might want to dig up those casting numbers and post. Also check to see if the head gasket was changed to a composite type on rebuild.

Adios, David

 

[ManikMaster]

Howdy back MM;

Q- "if i wanted a newer more air flow allowing carb, i might as well go with electronic ignition at the same time to simplify things yes?"

A- Maybe. You could go with an 1101 Autolite from a '63 -'67 233 engine or from a '64 262 truck six. This carb will flow 215 cfm and have a SCV compatible with your stock distributor and be close to a bolt on. With this one you can upgrade your distributor with a Petronix Ignitor for bolt-in pointless ignition.

OR-

You can upgrade to a Carter RBS from '70 to '77 250 engine, OR with an adapter you have several two barrel options- primary camps are a Holley/Weber two stage two barrel or the wide base Autolite 2100 and Holley 2300s. You could do a search on any or all of these options as they have been done by a bunch of folks here who are glad to share.

Any of these will require upgrading to a '68 and later distributor. All of these will have centrifugal advance and a vacuum advance signaled by a ported vacuum signal from the carb. The '68 to '73. The pointless DuraSpark system first appeared in the '73 model year and was upgraded in the '75 model year with the DuraSpark II system.

While you're thinking this over you might want to dig up those casting numbers and post. Also check to see if the head gasket was changed to a composite type on rebuild.

Adios, David

so with the newer vaccum advance and pointless will i need to get an adapter for the intake and the throttle?

thanks by the way

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back:

If you go the larger one barrel route, No. Simply taper out the top of the carb adapter to allow the larger diameter butterflys to open.

I forgot to mention that the Autolite 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine, also rated at 215 cfm, will be a direct bolt on- except for the Tbore taper. It looks very similiar to your OEM 1100.

If you go to one of the two barrel options you will either need an adapter- Holley-Weber type or Autolite2100/2300 Holley type.

The best option for adapting a two barrel is to modify the stock log to mount the carb directly- no funnel adapter. This requires the head to be removed, the stock carb mount milled off and a new carb base plate installed. This option is better because it allows more hood clearance, and better flow.

In addition to the adapter you will need to fabricate linkage, and air cleaner, and fuel line.

Adios, David

 

[ludwig]

David is the guy who wrote the book on mods for the I6. In fact, you can get his book right at the bottom of his sig. David is too humble to suggest it because it looks like he's flogging his own product. It answers many questions that you will still have to ask and takes to to a whole new realm of performance.Info on heads, carbs, drivetrain. You will be surprized what you can do and he gives you pointers from lowest to highest cost.

It will be the best auto improvement you can make for less than $20. Even better than a real good performance sticker.

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi Ludwig,old saying:"Its a poor dog that don`t wag its own tail".I don`t think that ANYONE would objert to Dave giving the "bible"a little plug now and then.
Leo

 

[ludwig]

So it´s better if I tell you how great I am instead of somebody else telling you how great I am?

That guy has NEVER said, "Here, you need to get the book I wrote." He just keeps on doling out valuable information. I figure I can make two people happier with one post.

"Even a blind sow finds an acorn every once in a while."