Seems Comet #2(200/Ford-O-Matic...)has been gurgling 'an heaving it's guts out over the past few days(in this awful heat we've been having...),so I figured it's time to replace it. I called a place in N.J. and they said they'll have a new ALUMINUM unit ordered on Monday,and ready to pick-up on Tuesday,all for $179. Any pros 'an cons about the new Aluminum Rads out there? Personally,I've never seen a STOCK Aluminum replacement Rad for a old Ford/Merc like mine before. Back in March,I bought TWO STOCK replacement Rads for two of my Nova's(Six-Cylinders...)and before that,in Nov. 2006,a new Rad for my '69 Caddilac Fleetwood........ALL of these were ordinary Copper replacements. Just wondering that's all. Thank's. ~OO6.
New ALUMINUM Radiators...........
- Thread starter STEVEN.
- Start date
Steven, you will find the 2 row aluminum will out perform a 3 row copper radiator.
Another benefit is that it is thinner. Depending on mounting it might allow for a puller elcetric fan vs. a pusher.
After installation please post the website where you found this gem. Bill
Another benefit is that it is thinner. Depending on mounting it might allow for a puller elcetric fan vs. a pusher.
After installation please post the website where you found this gem. Bill
it's a big understanding that alum is better at cooling, but it's a mis understanding as to why it is better...
the 2 row alum will cool better only if it has one or both of the tubings 1inch long, the more surface area the more easily the heat can transfer out.
I HIGHLY recomend you only get it if it is 2 rows of 1 inch tubing (about as thick as a 3 core), because it will cool as good as (if not better than) a 5 core copper radiator.
currently I have a 1 inch tube and a .5 inch tube in my alum radiator, and it cools to a degree (depending on the air degree) but I'm able to keep it steady at 215* with a 195* t-stat and an electric fan in 110* weather runngin the AC.
Good luck
Richard
the 2 row alum will cool better only if it has one or both of the tubings 1inch long, the more surface area the more easily the heat can transfer out.
I HIGHLY recomend you only get it if it is 2 rows of 1 inch tubing (about as thick as a 3 core), because it will cool as good as (if not better than) a 5 core copper radiator.
currently I have a 1 inch tube and a .5 inch tube in my alum radiator, and it cools to a degree (depending on the air degree) but I'm able to keep it steady at 215* with a 195* t-stat and an electric fan in 110* weather runngin the AC.
Good luck
Richard
the only trouble i experience with aluminum radiators is that they have a tendency to start leaking at the seam where the plastic meets the aluminum. never seen this on a new one, but very common after they're a few years old. they do work well, at least until that leak starts
I don't think they make alum/plastic radiators for comets, or 60's muscle cars... unless it's retro fit...
Mine is full alum, tanks and all...
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... 090118.jpg
Mine is full alum, tanks and all...
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... 090118.jpg
Explorer
Well-known member
MPGmustang":17z6cxa9 said:
Keep in mind I'm running a Bronco, but my aluminum Champion radiator almost cools too good. It will never go above 195 sitting in traffic with 192 degree thermostat. Winter, I have to block off part of air flow or it only runs 160 on the highway. Plus Bronco's are known for high underhood temps.
Explorer,
with a good working setup as you have I would put an electric fan on there, that way the fan can stop pulling cool air in. it will help keep ur engine at the right temp by shutting off when you're too cold and turning back on when your getting warm, I would also replace ur t-stat with one that didn't have a bubble hole. IMO just doesn't sound right with a 192* t-stat to be running 160*
but on the alum radiators I like them, I think it willl do the job nicely.
with a good working setup as you have I would put an electric fan on there, that way the fan can stop pulling cool air in. it will help keep ur engine at the right temp by shutting off when you're too cold and turning back on when your getting warm, I would also replace ur t-stat with one that didn't have a bubble hole. IMO just doesn't sound right with a 192* t-stat to be running 160*
but on the alum radiators I like them, I think it willl do the job nicely.
Explorer
Well-known member
In my case, you are probably correct. My concern when building this was having enough cooling. Had no idea it was going to work out this way. Normally I don't like electric fans, but they do have their place. Really need to do something before winter, not good for it running that low of temp.
I went over to them,and plopped down my $$(had the day off,so....)this afternoon. Total bill came to $191.00 after Taxes. Tommorow afternoon I pick it up. Shop Website is:--> www.tcrwarehouse.com . Phone # is 1-856-786-2255(New Jersey...). So,there ya go,Kids 
! ~OO6.
! ~OO6.
STEVEN.":1lfmdfp0 said:I went over to them,and plopped down my $$(had the day off,so....)this afternoon. Total bill came to $191.00 after Taxes. Tommorow afternoon I pick it up. Shop Website is:--> http://www.tcrwarehouse.com . Phone # is 1-856-786-2255(New Jersey...). So,there ya go,Kids
Steven - Waiting 4 a post back from ur 'Joursey' contact (or wuz it Philly - I lived in both). Don't need 1 right now but the 250 is bigger than the 170 and may need more cooling...I understand the alu R more efficient than the copper (cooler). What's the drawbacks compared to the oe or copper? Repair costs?...I'm frugal (read broke). Fragility? ... I use the vehicle for rough service & in the woods, fields, swamps and hills.
Thanks guys (& gals? I never notice any round here).
Chad,
from a replacment stand point the copper core I have is $325 (tax and built locally here in PHX AZ) and that is the 3 core, it developed a leak over time (less than 1 year) and I swapped it out for an alum for $250 (local shop bought from china, extra cost to me
), recently I took my copper rad to get repaired, cost $70, In the end it was cheaper to repair than to replace...
if you're in the not in the city you'll most likely run in cooler weather, any copper rad should be effecient enough for the task. but I recomend making sure you have a 3 row copper if not go get the 2 row alum.
from a replacment stand point the copper core I have is $325 (tax and built locally here in PHX AZ) and that is the 3 core, it developed a leak over time (less than 1 year) and I swapped it out for an alum for $250 (local shop bought from china, extra cost to me
), recently I took my copper rad to get repaired, cost $70, In the end it was cheaper to repair than to replace... if you're in the not in the city you'll most likely run in cooler weather, any copper rad should be effecient enough for the task. but I recomend making sure you have a 3 row copper if not go get the 2 row alum.
Thanks 4 the post back -
Rich. I followed ur 'over heating?' thread closely. I'm tryin to gather info on muffler designs and 'note' I seek for the I6. Also info on radiators (actually anything automotive or esp. on our lill Bug squashers [falcon]). With these earth changes I may not be in a cooler place than U for long. So anyway are alu more efficient? what draw backs might they have over copper? Seems ur sayin an 2 row alu = 3 row copper? Alu is the most plentyful metal so I thought the switch wuz on only due to the hi price a copper...
U know how corporations (global) are -
Rich. I followed ur 'over heating?' thread closely. I'm tryin to gather info on muffler designs and 'note' I seek for the I6. Also info on radiators (actually anything automotive or esp. on our lill Bug squashers [falcon]). With these earth changes I may not be in a cooler place than U for long. So anyway are alu more efficient? what draw backs might they have over copper? Seems ur sayin an 2 row alu = 3 row copper? Alu is the most plentyful metal so I thought the switch wuz on only due to the hi price a copper...
U know how corporations (global) are -
MPGmustang":1mtkgjc5 said:
You're not giving me alot of hope Richard, my fellow Chandlerite... I'd be uncomfortable running 215 as normal, even in 110 degrees. I made room for a custom, wider and taller aluminum rad for my wagon. I think it's like 27x19 or something. Supposed to be good for 400 hp.... Course I'll be making tons more than that... :mrgreen:
With an AC system sized for P-diddy's cribs Viking refrig, I gotta keep engine temps under control. I hate cooling problems!
I hate cooling problems!
C our discussion on too cool problems/lower than optimal? It's got an appropriate range! (P diddy is too kowell.)
Seriously, think bout things like carb icing and operating below 180*.
C our discussion on too cool problems/lower than optimal? It's got an appropriate range! (P diddy is too kowell.)
Seriously, think bout things like carb icing and operating below 180*.
