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mwebb

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Hi everyone - I've been lurking on this board for a few months and decided to join. I have a 1965 Mustang with the 3 speed.

Long story short, my cylinder head needs work - rather than have the small log head reconditioned, I found a '69 - '79 large log, which I ordered this week from Allied Auto Parts in Atlanta, and I'm thinking about pairing it with a Carter YFA 1 bbl from Mike's. The previous (original) owner replaced the original distributor, so I don't think I have the LOM - it only has 1 vacuum line going to the Autolite 1100. Based on this, I wanted to ask the following:

1. Is the Carter YFA a good carb to pair with the large log head? I'm not looking for performance, just something to cruise around town with.
2. How do I know if I have the LOM distributor?
3. Anything I need to do to the large log head? I was told by Allied it's been reconditioned and milled to work with a thicker gasket, and will bolt on a 200. I've also heard that it needs to be milled down so the head displacement is 52cc. How to I check that?

Thank you!
 
Welcome to the Ford Six Site mwebb, depending on which year head that they send you some of this info won't apply as will be noted in below answers.

1. Yes the Carter YFA is a very good carb for the large log heads and small logs too. Check the height differance and how much hood clearance compared to your 1100 Autolite.
2. Chances are very good that your current Distribitor is still a LOM. But easist way to check it to find out is to take off the Distribitor cap and look inside at the parts, post a picture if you need help. The distribtor numbers also can be used as an ID.
3. What they usally do is the minimum cut of about .020 to .025 this only covers the extra thickness of .025 over the stock steel shim head gasket
(that’s only .025) for a FelPro or .019 for the Victor Reniz. It normally takes a .075 cut to cover both the extra head gasket thickness and get the combustion chambers down to 52 CC from their 62 CC for the FelPro on a virgin head, the Victor would be a .006 less cut to do the same. The only way to know for sure what you have is to measure the CC's of the heads combustion chambers.
4. If the large log head is a 1969 to 1976, it will have the slightly smaller intake valves of 1.649 same as were first used in the 1965 170 & 200 engines. The 1977 to 1983 large logs have the biggest 1.750 intake valves, all 1969 to 1983 200 & 250 heads have the larger 1 3/4 inch carb mounting hole that go's perfect with the Carter YFA carb. Some people will also open up these log carb mounting holes even more to 2 to 2 1/8 inch opening when they plan on using the 2V to 1V carb adapters it's a quick and easy do it yourself type mod. If you think you will ever go that direction in the further now would be the time to do that also than your already to bolt it on.
5. It's also worth the usually small extra cost in the power returned to have the intakes valves back cut. Along with the standard three angle valve job. After that having the valve bowls opened up and guides narrowed is a good bang for the buck mod to. If you want to get more comments on these questions you need to post this over in the Small Block Ford Six forum were more site members will see it, if you want I can move it over there for you. Best of luck Edited for corrections.
 
Thank you for the quick response! It sounds like there may not be that much benefit to going with the large log head, if it's a '69 to '76 - in that case, is it better to just get the current block reconditioned? The car is an original one owner - I'm not looking to do a concours restoration, just balance originality with some things to improve driveability and performance.

If you could move this post over to the Small Block Ford Six forum, I'd appreciate it.

Also, here's some pics of my distributor:
IMG_0828.jpgIMG_0829.jpg
 
That Distribitor is a LOM unit. The later large log heads have lots to offer in bolt on performance, such induction hardened valve seats that are more compatable with today's unleaded fuels (from about the 1974's up), all will have better intake flow because of the larger carb mounting hole of 1 3/4 inch, larger logs, and larger intake ports (for all years from 1969 to 1983. The best ones being the last of the 200 & 250 heads made in the 1980's that have the largest volume logs). The 1969 to 1976 have tge 1.649 size intake valves same as the 1965 to 1968 small log heads. The 1977 to 1983 heads have the largest intake valves of 1.750 inches.

Yes you could redo your stock head though not sure how much you will save over using one of the 1969 to 1976 heads, you could get an estaminet of the costs. My above recommendations were to optimize one of the later large log heads for use on a 1963 1/2 to 1968 200 six getting the most power (even more power than those orginal 200 six'es originally had) at a very reasonable cost. Of corse you could skip some or all of those mod's and still get a good power boost over any of the stock 1963 1/2 to 1968 log heads. You could even keep your current carb and Distribitor by installing a carb rebuild kit in the 1100 Autolite then use a simple Aluminum carb adapter plate or in some cases the carb can have the base sloted to fit both bolt spacing's. Then install a new vacuum advance canister on your LOM Distributor that would bring back most of the lost performance of your 1965 Mustangs 200 six making it a good driver. Best of luck Edited for corrections.
 
Thank you, Bubba. Not the info I wanted on the LOM, but now I know what I’m dealing with. the remain cylinder head is about $100 less than the quotes I got for redoing my current one, so I can put some of that money making sure the head is 52 cc or upgrading my carb/distributor.

I appreciate the help!
 
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65 Mustang with a 170 and three speed is a great ride, wish I had it. Probably should get that head as parts for the sixes are getting harder to find and it will flow more than your 65 170 head. You can always hog out the carb opening and have larger valves installed if needed but it sounds like you are going for a good running daily driver so that head should be good. Definitely a good idea to follow advice from bubba22349. Get a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook it is the tool you need for where you are right now. The new rebuilt head, carb and a custom curved DSII ignition, if your block will allow, should give you a noticeable performance boost.
 
65 Mustang with a 170 and three speed is a great ride, wish I had it. Probably should get that head as parts for the sixes are getting harder to find and it will flow more than your 65 170 head. You can always hog out the carb opening and have larger valves installed if needed but it sounds like you are going for a good running daily driver so that head should be good. Definitely a good idea to follow advice from bubba22349. Get a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook it is the tool you need for where you are right now. The new rebuilt head, carb and a custom curved DSII ignition, if your block will allow, should give you a noticeable performance boost.
Thanks! Sounds like I should go with the newer head. The good news is, I have a seven bearing 200 ci engine, not the 170.
 
Yes you have a loadamatic dist.
You have 3 choices, DS11, HEI or a DUI.
The HEI & the DUI all need to be recurved for your engine & need a full 12 Volts using a relay.
The DS11 also needs to be recurved. Also needs a coil & a Box. The best is the MSD box. The coil of my choice would be a MSD Blaster 2 coil.
Check my listings in the small six for sale section of this forum. wsa111 Bill
Question contact me billythedistributorman@live.com
 
Thank you for correcting me drag-200stang, yes all the large log heads from 1969 up will have the bigger 1 3/4 inch carb mounting opening. Must of been a case of brain fade, I will also go back and edit my above posts so that they are right.
 
Yes you have a loadamatic dist.
You have 3 choices, DS11, HEI or a DUI.
The HEI & the DUI all need to be recurved for your engine & need a full 12 Volts using a relay.
The DS11 also needs to be recurved. Also needs a coil & a Box. The best is the MSD box. The coil of my choice would be a MSD Blaster 2 coil.
Check my listings in the small six for sale section of this forum. wsa111 Bill
Question contact me billythedistributorman@live.com
I have a Pertronix Flamethrower coil and pointless setup. Can I use that with the DSII?
 
not sure on ur decision for the 2nd head. Not sure on the need to use this vehicle (DD?) as is now. Doing the warm over to the spare allows, of course, U to drive, improve & switch over in a day, 1/2 day when it's ready. Do the ign 1st. I 2nd the above "get the Handbook" idea
as it helps at every step of the way (over all project, machining choices, ID components). ID what U have is 1st (head, block, all imp components) as this is a 50 y/o vehice. IF '64 + the block will take the DSII conversion (dizzy, blue strain releaf box, coil, wiring) as the 'block hole' 4 da dizzy will fit it. Now the LOM/SCV can B dumped:
anda carb improve.
Yes, the Carter is very good (I ran a YF for 35 yrs). But now, these changes allow an upgrade - one that looks entirely oem, era correct, etc. But has performance (that wrd means "improved MPGs & pep" - nither a bad thing). As suggested "CC the head". Simply (as seen in the Handbook) just upside down w/fluid measured as poured into a Comb. Chamber. Cubic Centermeters. (all = "CCed"). Possibly w/a kitchen turkey baister or horse syringe (cc.s marked incremenrtally on the side of "a needle"). I may B alone here (doubt it) but any time I get to play 'mad scientist' in the garage I love it. (This wk it was octane developer as I mixed aviation fuel w/gasoline to get the right octane for race season & read the pipet for ChEBI level).
 
Hi, I think you will be happy with the head / carb / distributor upgrade. Just wanted to add that these engines like more initial ignition timing. Don't be afraid to try 12* advance, as long as it doesn't ping or knock.
As Bubba said, CC the original head, it is easy. I use a small plastic syringe to measure tranny fluid. Then get the new chambers close to the old head.
The easy way to tell LOM distributors is the vacuum advance can is much flatter while the newer distributors the can is more cone shaped.
Good luck
 
Y duz ur head need wrk? Vehicle is not running now?

(BTW: B RON, I'd call it a "large plastic syringe" 50cc
AND
"the bronk fest New Englamd" is this coming wk end - new 1 yr veneue - C tasker's posts)
altho U may B closer to 'the super Celeb' now...
 
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not sure on ur decision for the 2nd head. Not sure on the need to use this vehicle (DD?) as is now. Doing the warm over to the spare allows, of course, U to drive, improve & switch over in a day, 1/2 day when it's ready. Do the ign 1st. I 2nd the above "get the Handbook" idea
as it helps at every step of the way (over all project, machining choices, ID components). ID what U have is 1st (head, block, all imp components) as this is a 50 y/o vehice. IF '64 + the block will take the DSII conversion (dizzy, blue strain releaf box, coil, wiring) as the 'block hole' 4 da dizzy will fit it. Now the LOM/SCV can B dumped:
anda carb improve.
Yes, the Carter is very good (I ran a YF for 35 yrs). But now, these changes allow an upgrade - one that looks entirely oem, era correct, etc. But has performance (that wrd means "improved MPGs & pep" - nither a bad thing). As suggested "CC the head". Simply (as seen in the Handbook) just upside down w/fluid measured as poured into a Comb. Chamber. Cubic Centermeters. (all = "CCed"). Possibly w/a kitchen turkey baister or horse syringe (cc.s marked incremenrtally on the side of "a needle"). I may B alone here (doubt it) but any time I get to play 'mad scientist' in the garage I love it. (This wk it was octane developer as I mixed aviation fuel w/gasoline to get the right octane for race season & read the pipet for ChEBI level).you are spot on.
not sure on ur decision for the 2nd head. Not sure on the need to use this vehicle (DD?) as is now. Doing the warm over to the spare allows, of course, U to drive, improve & switch over in a day, 1/2 day when it's ready. Do the ign 1st. I 2nd the above "get the Handbook" idea
as it helps at every step of the way (over all project, machining choices, ID components). ID what U have is 1st (head, block, all imp components) as this is a 50 y/o vehice. IF '64 + the block will take the DSII conversion (dizzy, blue strain releaf box, coil, wiring) as the 'block hole' 4 da dizzy will fit it. Now the LOM/SCV can B dumped:
anda carb improve.
Yes, the Carter is very good (I ran a YF for 35 yrs). But now, these changes allow an upgrade - one that looks entirely oem, era correct, etc. But has performance (that wrd means "improved MPGs & pep" - nither a bad thing). As suggested "CC the head". Simply (as seen in the Handbook) just upside down w/fluid measured as poured into a Comb. Chamber. Cubic Centermeters. (all = "CCed"). Possibly w/a kitchen turkey baister or horse syringe (cc.s marked incremenrtally on the side of "a needle"). I may B alone here (doubt it) but any time I get to play 'mad scientist' in the garage I love it. (This wk it was octane developer as I mixed aviation fuel w/gasoline to get the right octane for race season & read the pipet for ChEBI level).
You are spot on. I’m building something that can be a DD, but is subtly warmed over. I got the Falcon book and the one on performance 6 engines and have been reading them. At some point I may do a 2v conversion but for now, I want to keep it fairly stock and just enjoy it. I’ve driven a lot of cars in my life and at this point in my life, I just love driving the Mustang for what it is, a 56 year old survivor that requires work and a little patience to drive.
 
Y duz ur head need wrk? Vehicle is not running now?
One of the bolt holes for the thermostat is stripped out and I can’t get it rethreaded on my own. I got some estimates and can buy a remanufactured big log for about the same price as getting mine reworked.
 
"...bolt holes for the thermostat is stripped out..."
heliacoll as is right there & keep runnin (kit at NAPA & hand tools).
Buy the spare, a 3< & back cut, to larger valves, then a nice carb w/the 2v direct mount as said above...take a 1/2 or full day to swap on, never look back (even higher lift rockers if wanted). When U get serious do the cam'n more...(sounds like that may never come).
Where R U located?
 
Oh a 200 well that is even better. What manufacture year is your head and block? A reconditioned head would be convenient to use but you could also make a case for finding a late, large log head, and have it rebuilt with full mods like 3 angle and back cut on valves, larger exhaust valves and some porting / polishing etc. Maybe the 2v conversion while you are at it. Would be good to know what year the recon head is. With a built head / carb upgrade and ignition per wsa111 you would probably have an entertaining daily driver. At that point if it were mine I would seriously consider a T5 upgrade. A close ratio 4-speed with an od gear on top for civilized freeway cruising.
 
From what I can tell, the car has the original 200 and was built in Dearborn, March 29, 1965. I’ll give the helicoil a shot, while I try to get more info on the new head. I like the idea of having two heads to swap. That way I can keep the car original if I want to, while playing with it.
 
I look at it as 3 sz heads. I have a '69 - the "M" head good for the 2v direct mount
we have some good examples of how NOT to do it in one or 2 threads (that's pretty easy)
a small log, hex and lrg log. '77 + is lrg but 80/3 is the right 1 to source. Jegs comes in and out of AKT (or some such co) but 300$ is a bit much & not sure which log (see their 'yr application' 4 details).
I like the national junk yrds. One problem - a guy in Lakeland Fla sold me a '75 for '77 + & I could not correct the prob. He thinks he knows how to read castings & can't (wuz it AAA junk yrd?).
 
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