newb with '59 F-100

rmt":3fqdr0a4 said:
Lose the slotted mags.

Send them to me, you can be certain you will never see them again. Their horrid looks on your F100 will be nothing but a bad memory.

I'm just trying to do you a favor by helping you achieve your goal of getting back to the truck's original configuration, which is far superior to the way it looks now.

I'll even pay the shipping.

Roger

Roger,
While I am certain that I will never see them again if I send them to you, I am not certain if you are kidding or not. I just checked shipping, send me a check for $534.18 and they will be on their way. Thanks for your help :D

fmartin_gila":3fqdr0a4 said:
Kevin,

Got your email w/pics. Will see about stuff this afternoon.

Watch that kid, he looks like he is about to take over your pickup. Enjoy them while you can, as they grow up so quick.

Fred

Thanks Fred. That's my daughter btw, not my son. She has already taken over the pickup.
 
Kevin,

My bad, kind of hard to tell what they are at that age. My youngest daughter is 46, and have a son 2 years younger than her.

This may get a little long, but I decided to post for educational purposes and in case I need to be corrected.

Spent the afternoon out at my friends place. he has 6 215/223 engines there. It seems there were 3 different setups used.

The first, after much discussion we felt this was the type your pickup should have. This will be starting from the throttle arm on the firewall were your cable is attached with a bolt. Mounted in that hole, there is an adjustable link that is about 8 inches long and provides fore & aft Movement. Now looking down at the carb mounting studs on the top of the intake manifold, you will see 1 on the right side and 1 on the left side. Looking down at the right carb mounting stud, you will see 2 more studs, 1 to the front and 1 to the rear. These are 2 of the 3 studs that bolt the intake and the exhaust manifolds together. On these 2 front & rear studs is mounted a bracket that provides a pivot point for a bellcrank that changes the fore & aft movement to a up & down movement. 1 of the arms of this bellcrank is connected to the longer(about 8 inch) rod which comes from the throttle arm on the firewall. On the other arm is mounted a ball stud. Connected to this ballstud is a short(about 1 inch) link that has a ballstud socket on each end. The other end of this short link is onto a ballstud which is bolted to the butterfly operating arm.

My pickup is a 62 and has the later series head on it with the 8 bolt valve cover. I think the manifolds are the same and are interchangeable. I could be wrong. The setup is similar but different in that it mounts to the 2 holes in the cast tab that is on top of the intake runner to the rear cylinders. This results in a different length links, but accomplishes the same change of movement. We think this setup started about the same as the body change.

The next type mounts to 1 of the holes in the cast tab on top of the rear runner. It seems somewhat simpler and a lot less sturdy. We think it was used on cars as it would not receive the abuse that a pickup would. It did accomplish the same movement change, but it did seem very flimsy.

Another thought on this. You said earlier that the PO had done some changing and/or welding on the carb butterfly arm to make the cable work. If he removed the ballstud and somehow made it so the ballstud could not be installed in it's original position, you may be better off to keep the setup you now have. Unless you have reason to change the carb so you could go back to the original type setup. This is something you will have to decide.

If someone has some differing thoughts on this and these descriptions, please chime in.

He said he would need twenty dollars plus shipping for whichever setup you would want. My preference would be for the later one like on my pickup as it seemed to me a little smoother operating, but would not be original. He has all 3 setups on different engines so would take off whichever you would prefer.

Let me know what you want to do, and if you can even go back to the Ford system or if the PO has "doctored" it so you can't go back.

Fred
 
Fred,

Take a look at these and see if it changes your assessment at all. Note the custom modified throttle linkage....will this still work with the set-up you were considering or do I need to replace that linkage as well?
carb1_small.jpg

carb2_small.jpg

carb_small.jpg
 
59F100 said:
...I just checked shipping, send me a check for $534.18 and they will be on their way. Thanks for your help...

Actually that's not too bad of an offer. But I was kidding around. Your truck looks good with them and the whitewalls, even if the mags are a little out of place. Go with whitewalls like you have or some skinnier whitewalls if you can find them, or blackwalls. NOT raised white letters. WW's and the white roof and painted bumpers looks sharp.

On the other hand 500 bucks would get you some really nice vintage hubcaps, or baby moons and beauty rings on black painted rims. Probably with money left over.

Roger
 
Kevin,

From what I can see on your pic, it seems as if the left bolt of the 2 that he used to bolt on the little arm is about where the ballstud should be. It looks like he bolted on that small arm to get enough travel in the right direction to utilize the cable. At the point where that left bolt is, the travel of the stock linkage is about vertical. Does it look like you could unbolt the ballstud from that little arm and remount it in that left bolt hole? If so, you should be able to go back to the stock type linkage, as the very short link would connect to the ballstud in the position of where that left bolt is.


let me know.

Fred
 
Fred,

I'll have to go back and take another look. I'll let you know.


Roger,
I meant $1534.18.... :D

Thanks for your feedback. I am leaning towards white or black walls. The rims are going to take some work. PO sandblasted 3 of the 4 to remove the white paint job. I may sand and paint them gray "hammered finish" versus polishing them out. Not sure yet.
 
Fred,

It looks like it would work. The bolt in the left hole has the head ground down because it interferes with the acc pump linkage. I think I can do the same w/the ball stud or make some minor adjustments to the linkage.

PM sent.
 
Kevin,

If he had to grind the head of that bolt down to clear the accel pump linkage, then he has probably done something a little more drastic than it appears. In that approximate position, the arm should have a small(approx 1/4 in) dogleg in it so the nut from the ballstud can be there and not interfere with the accel pump linkage. Is there any possibility you can find someone local to look at,maybe even a parts house may have one in stock you could look at. I just don't think it would be wise to try to go back to the stock linkage, and then discover that you couldn't without replacing the carb.

Fred
 
Let me look around. Might take a few days, I am going out of town next week working this weekend. Maybe someone here has a picture of an original set-up that they could share?

Otherwise, I will start checking locally.
 
Try Charlie Price's Vintage Speed. Bound to have something you can use.

yb.jpg


My bad thats the edmunds 94 choke bracket...I'll look some more.
 
Now confused what linkages are you lookin' for exactly this is what I have sorry for the crappy pic's but my wife has the good camera and I had to use my phone with added light

link2.jpg

bracket / linkage that bolts to manifolds
link3.jpg

side of carb with linkages
 
Okay dude...I took a closer look at the pics, that is way rigged...I think I'm sending you everything to swap it back to a OEM linkage except for the long rod that is threaded on one end & has a 90 degree bend on the other side, the 90 goes through the accelerator pivot arm hole and is held into place with clips included the threaded end goes into the linkage that mounts on the exhaust / intake manifold ( 2 studs that the intake slides over to mount). You can make that rod easily with a piece of all-thread or thread a piece of round stock on one end. There shouldn't be any cable type pull except for the choke, not to the accelerator pump..well not on cars anyways.
 
Okay dude...I took a closer look at the pics, that is way rigged...I think I'm sending you everything to swap it back to a OEM linkage except for the long rod that is threaded on one end & has a 90 degree bend on the other side, the 90 goes through the accelerator pivot arm hole and is held into place with clips included the threaded end goes into the linkage that mounts on the exhaust / intake manifold ( 2 studs that the intake slides over to mount). You can make that rod easily with a piece of all-thread or thread a piece of round stock on one end. There shouldn't be any cable type pull except for the choke, not to the accelerator pump..well not on cars anyways.
 
I saw something else in the foto there shouldn't be that little spacer clip(looks like a window crank handle clip) between the choke cable housing fastener arm & choke action lever. If spacer is needed try to use a thin copper waser but arm should fit snuggly around a collar on the carb body housing without spacer.
 
I'll have to look at that again. I see the clip, but I dont think there is a spacer in there. I could be mistaken, but I dont recall any spacer. I just slid the shaft in and inserted the clip.
 
59F100":3kd5ujk2 said:
Fred,

Take a look at these and see if it changes your assessment at all. Note the custom modified throttle linkage....will this still work with the set-up you were considering or do I need to replace that linkage as well?
carb1_small.jpg

carb2_small.jpg

carb_small.jpg
2nd pic down there's not suppose to be a clip there.
 
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