Newbie Question - Smog Removed

[t-west]

Hi all,

Yesterday I got around to removing all the stock smog equip (smog pump, check valve, deceleration valve, etc).

Here's the question that labels me a newbie:

How can I block off the holes in the Air manifold assembly? Simple short bolts? Do I even need to block them?

thanks,
--tom

 

[CoupeBoy]

disclaimer: You should never remove or disable smog equipment on your vehicle if it was put on there by the factory or required at the time of installation. And now the real dirt.

On past motors I have had to use newer smog style manifolds on pre-emissions vehicles and we bought brass plugs from the parts store to fill the threaded holes. I have seen all sorts of other 'home remedies' for plugging other smog equipment, cork shoved int he end of steel tubes, EGR hose connecting one open smog line to another. Some bent 8 heads have smog holes in the back of them that you can plug with by either threading the holes and screwing in some large bolts/plugs, or using small frostplugs if you can find the right size.

basically any metal object that fits snugly should work. How about posting a pic of the part you are trying to work with also.

-ron

 

[Anonymous]

How can I block off the holes in the Air manifold assembly?

Manilfold off?? -> weld 'em shut.
Manifold on?? -> heat each with torch to red, then unscrew. Replace with plugs. If any break, you can drill and tap and thread a bolt or plug in. Or weld them while in the car (be careful)

 

[t-west]

Here's the part I removed:

and here are two of the holes left behind:

The manifold is still on the head, the head on the block, the engine in the car.
Freeze plugs?
thanks,
--tom

 

[Anonymous]

WOW!!!

My 1982 head doesn't have those holes, mine were in the exhaust manifold that I removed.

You could use a "thread pitch gauge" from a tap and die set to see what threads they are, and match plugs from there.

You could also pinch each tube off with a bolt cutter and re-install them.

It looks like the bottom of the tube needs to be there to get a seal. If you have a welder and weld the tops of the plugs, then use Permatex brand liquid teflon thread sealant on the threads to keep them from leaking.

 

[WhitePony]

WTF is that??? I've never seen a log head with that stuff attached!!

 

[Anonymous]

WTF is that???

I think that was for just a couple of years, 1975-77 ??

 

[t-west]

You think that's bad, check this out:

Could I have a few more hoses? That's the smog pump w/ smog air filter on the lower right. Down below, behind the coil is the air bypass valve (I think), and then the spider-looking tubing up top (which is what I just showed you) is the air manifold assembly.

This is off of a 66 Mustang, all original. It may be CA emissions stuff especially added(?). Anyone knows for sure, let me know.

--tom

 

[Anonymous]

i don't know what cali checks for emmisions on a 66 but i'd rip all that stuff off

 

[mustang6]

That's all stock '66 California emssions stuff. I've had a couple 66 cars over the years that came with that stuff and they were all California cars. Believe it or not, that complete setup may be worth something to a purist. At the big Mustangs NW show up here last year there was a perfectly detailed original car that had all that equipment on it and it drew onlookers like crazy.

I would keep it all together and try to sell it as a complete package on ebay. I hear the filter unit that is on the air intake side of that smog pump is almost impossible to find.

I also think you could make a trip to the hardware store and buy brass plugs to screw into all those holes.

 

[t-west]

Thanks, I never thought to sell it to a purist. I checked on ebay, and a complete 289 system (minus the rust) recently sold for $163.51 -- something I could use right now!

(see http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4551255113&category=34202

thanks again,
--tom

 

[Anonymous]

You might want to sell the head, too.

You could take all the proceeds and apply them to a good, "large log, large valve" late 70's early 80's head and pick up some power.

 

[xctasy]

Wahts the casting number on the head?

D6 somethig something 6049 somethig something.

The revision codes and correct numbers are important historical info

 

[jimarlie]

Tom,

Just use an appropriate size threaded brass plug as mentioned. Make sure to clean the threads good and use a dab of Never Seize on each. I have done quite a few this way and never had a leak or problem.

Jim

 

[t-west]

Casting number: C6DE-6090-E