Newbie questions - carb, throttle, kickdown...

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Anonymous

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Howdy all.

My goal is to have a C4 automatic and a 170 in my 63 Ranchero.

The vehicle had a 3 speed behind a 302 when I got it - which was not
original of course. When new, this Ranchero was a 144 3 speed.

The 170 engine and the trans are currently in the vehicle, but I do not think I have all of the right parts to make this work.

Do I have the wrong type of carburetor? The throttle crank is on the
back side, and needs to be pulled toward the drivers side to increase the throttle. I think on an automatic, the throttle needs to be on the side.

I also seem to have a spring-loaded cable instead of a series of solid linkages for the accelerator.

I do not yet have any of the kickdown stuff, and can't see how it would work this way anyhow.

What do I need to do to get all of this working?

Some photos below. The carb is a C6TF-F

Thanks!

-Zim

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
 
Looks like an Autolite 1100 with a Cable throttle conversion.

What is your end goal? Are you trying to restore it to near-stock or just to get the thing running?

There is no real reason I can see that what you have won't work.
 
My goal is to get it running.

Stock is not a real big concern right now.

How would the kickdown work with a cable throttle then?

Thanks,

-Zim
 
All I can tell you is how I did a cable throttle and kickdown on my '65 Mustang.

First, before I start, it looks like the arm on the back of your carb has been modified. The stocker on my car is in the same location, but its 45* below horizontal. And was pushed up to 45* above horizontal at WOT. All on the passenger side of the engine. To me it looks like the arm was moved up so the cable could access it. Anyhoo....

The kickdown switch on my tranny is on the driver side. I'm assuming that yours is too. Please verify before you read all the rest of this stuff. I bought a Lokar pedal and throttle cable and then bought a C-3 or 4 kickdown down cable kit. I drilled a second hole in the firewall err bulkhead, below where the throttle cable penetrated the bulkhead. The kickdown cable then loops down and 180* back under floor to the kickdown switch. The cable housing has one end that sandwiches it to the bulkhead. At the tranny switch I think I found a bracket to hold that end. The cable housing should be held at both ends.

At the gas pedal the Lokar stuff had slots cut in the main arm from the pedal, so I just put the clevis of the cable in one of the slot. The cable is slack under most driving conditions. It only pull or activates the cable at WOT.

Hope that helps.

Thanks,
Mugsy
 
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