No No No! Problem when connecting engine & Trans

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
I need help quick! :lol:

I put the transmission and the engine together, and we got it all bolted up. Everything was great, then my friend noticed the studs protruding from the torque converter, which bolt into the flywheel, appear to be too long. If the engine was turned, it would hit the block-plate.

What should I do?? The flexplate is torqued on the block, the little ring thing that goes on the flexplate is on there as well; The converter is pushed in ALL the way to the transmission. Am I missing something???
 
Well, I don't have any specific information for you - how close are they ?

If its just a little, either put washers between TC and flexplate, or grind them flush once installed.

However, I don't know how the auto-tranny is supposed to go together, so maybe you are missing a part :)
 
They are probably 1/16" to 1/8" too long. It doesn't make any sense...


I was thinking of putting washers in between the TC and the flexplate, but won't that push the transmission back ~1/8" (however thick the washer is)?

I could grind them, but I really don't want to, nor do I understand why it shouldn't go back the way it was beforehand. Weird

oh hey Bort, did you get my message? I need your email to send payment.
 
It is supposed to be a pretty small figure - however, it can be bad when the thrust bearing faces are worn.
 
Probably the converter is not fully seated into the front pump gear and is bending the flex plate forward. Measure the distance from the flex plate to the rear of the block plate, then loosen all the trans mounting bolts a little and see if the flex plate moves backward. If it does, take everything apart and check everything. The flex plate may be bent permanenently forward and the front pump may have damage. The converter may be a little squashed too from being jammed up against the crank. Good luck, you are going to need it.
 
Did you actually turn the motor over slowly with a wrench and see if they hit, there is not a whole lot of room between the end of the bolt and the back of the block. That would also tell you if the pump is fully seated, because you will not be able to budge the crank with the bellhousing bolted up.
 
No, we didn't turn it over because it would hit - it is sticking past the blockplate, like 1/16" to 1/8". That would gouge the plate.
 
About the fully seating thing:

Trust me, I'm not trying to be rude, I just want this to be fixed. Sorry in advance if I come off brash...

It can't be the problem of not fully seating, because once the TC is bolted to the flexplate, it can never move forward or backward relative to the block. In other words - however far the flexplate is from the block is how far the TC will be from the block.
 
Just trim the ends off of the bolts looks like you can cut at least a 1/4" off the bolts?? anything sticking through isn't holding anything anyway.
Tim
 
mysavioreigns":3hlbd23g said:
About the fully seating thing:

Trust me, I'm not trying to be rude, I just want this to be fixed. Sorry in advance if I come off brash...

It can't be the problem of not fully seating, because once the TC is bolted to the flexplate, it can never move forward or backward relative to the block. In other words - however far the flexplate is from the block is how far the TC will be from the block.

what he is saying is the t/c could be pushed (bent,flexed)towards the block. you can actually crack the bellhousing if the converter isn't clicked into the trans completely.
when the sun comes up here (and it gets above 40 degrees) :lol:
i'll measure the distance between the block and the flex plate on my mustang.
 
Okay - that could be one thing....let's see, so you're saying that the flexplate could be under some pressure at the top, and not at the bottom, pushing it forward at the top, and not at the bottom. That would make it protrude, yes.

I think I'll run back home at lunch and put the TC on the flexplate, w/o the bellhousing, just to see if that will work. that way, I can get a full visual of what's going on, and it should be the same pressure all the way around.
 
I remember them being real close when I did mine but they didnt hit anything. I think I looked and the studs were slightly longer on the new converter than the one I took off. With the bolts not on the converter you should be able to float the converter 1/8"- 1/4" in and out. If it doesnt float it may not be seated properly. I dont remember but is there any chance the flexplate is on the wrong way?
 
fordconvert":lqm5ovjv said:
I dont remember but is there any chance the flexplate is on the wrong way?

Nope, the flexplate only goes on one way. Now, the spacer could be on there wrong, but I highly doubt it. Right now, on the flexplate there is a "groove" flange in the metal for the spacer. That's where it was, and that's where I put it back. But, who knows, crazier things have happened!
 
Back
Top