O-ring'd 250 block

Thanks for the information, Will.

The felpro gaskets we're talking about, are we talking about the Printoseal? The ones that have a solid shim with gasket material on both sides with the metal fire ring pressed around at the bore. Or some other flimsy mesh deal. I had fair luck with the Printoseals but after awhile they wanted to burn through between 3 and 4.

Will, if you don't mind, Kirk which one did you use?
 
Will, we used Forcell and Clark. (not on a six) We used the clear silicone that they sell for the water passages.
 
Sorry guys I added a "s" on the link! It's been edited.

Well this Yamabond stuff came recommend by a couple of guys in both Tucson and Phoenix. So we'll see how it goes. It's pretty runny stuff when it first comes out of the tube. It does "solidify" somewhat in about 5 min.

Drag-200,
No I don't think the Fel-pros were Printoseal. They were just the stock replacements that you can get at Checker.

Later,
Will
 
When i ran copper head gaskets, a local engine guy told me to use a thin strand of copper wire around each water passage. About .030 wire as I recall

I glued the wire with the ends crossed onto the copper head gasket around each water passage. I never had a water leak or any other leak at 20 psi of boost.
 
drag-200stang":2uw2tze8 said:
Thanks for the information, Will.

The felpro gaskets we're talking about, are we talking about the Printoseal? The ones that have a solid shim with gasket material on both sides with the metal fire ring pressed around at the bore. Or some other flimsy mesh deal. I had fair luck with the Printoseals but after awhile they wanted to burn through between 3 and 4.

Will, if you don't mind, Kirk which one did you use?

I tried the Corteco (?) and blew it out after the 3rd run at 13 - 15psi on #'s 1, 3, 5 and 6. Now running the Fel-Pro at 10 - 12psi on pump 93oct and @ 26* total timing and no problems yet at WOT.

Kirk
 
Does10s":2irm3n4t said:
Well this Yamabond stuff came recommend by a couple of guys in both Tucson and Phoenix. So we'll see how it goes. It's pretty runny stuff when it first comes out of the tube. It does "solidify" somewhat in about 5 min.


Later,
Will

I just noticed this post.

THe Yamabond works real well on trans / transfer cases where a gasket is not used
 
I annealed the copper gasket yesterday. Wow! what a difference! The gasket is now real flemsy. It used to very rigid. I could hold it at the very end of cyl. #1 and it would stick straight out. Now if I did that it would bend right at my hand down at 90 degrees!
It should seal better now!
I'm still going to use the spray sealer and the Yamabond.
We have 3 races in the next 5 weekends and I don't feel like pulling the head for any of them!!!!!!
Later,
Will
 
Does10s":1elyynii said:
I annealed the copper gasket yesterday. Wow! what a difference! The gasket is now real flemsy. It used to very rigid. I could hold it at the very end of cyl. #1 and it would stick straight out. Now if I did that it would bend right at my hand down at 90 degrees!
It should seal better now!
I'm still going to use the spray sealer and the Yamabond.
We have 3 races in the next 5 weekends and I don't feel like pulling the head for any of them!!!!!!
Later,
Will

When you get the new ford 6 head, don't use any sealer on the gasket. because of the expansion rate diffrences between Cast iron and aluminum, would end up blowing the gasket faster, or even crack the head.
 
Copper against aluminum would have some stronger electrolytic tendencies I would think, more than steel against aluminum.
 
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